Muscletang needs new floor pans - advice?

[tony-muscle]

Seat Platforms: OEM vs. Repops




Last night I received one of the seat platforms. For those reading this thread I wanted to post some pictures comparing the original platforms to the repop ones. There was a lot of discussion about the difference in height. I measured the height at all four mounting points and the repop is 1/2" taller than the original. I placed both platforms in the car and measured the height from the front mounting hole to the edge of the windshield. The repops are also 1/2" taller. However, after some bending and hammering of the legs I was able to flatten it down to about 1/4" difference. I am not going to cut the repops down for just 1/4". We are not that tall anyway, 5'8" and 5'7". I believe that with some more persuasion and couple small cuts you can get it down to match the height without the need of cutting and rewelding the whole length of the platform.

Based on the above, it won't take major work or rewelding to make them fit if you want to keep a similar height. Now, as reported here, if you are much taller you may want to cut more to lower the height.

 

[tony-muscle]

Rear quarter panel drain location

So I seam sealed the whole underside of my car, not only the floor pan area that I welded, but other gaps that I saw. However, now I am second guessing myself hoping that I did not seal any openings that were meant to drain water if it gets in the quarter panels, torque boxes or inside the car. The front torque boxes drains are open. Now, my questions are: where do the rear torque boxes drain if they do? Where is the drain from the quarter panel under the rear side windows? Any other drain holes/openings that I need to be aware off. I don't want to seal what was meant to be open.

Please look at this pictures. If there is a drain by the front bolt of the rear spring I may have sealed it. No big deal, because I can undo it. Please advise about drain holes that are meant to be.

 

[tony-muscle]

Can anyone help in regards to the undercar drain hole locations asked in my last post?

 

[turtle5353]

Sorry wish I could help but im not sure on the locations!!

 

[tony-muscle]

Rear quarter panel drain location

So I seam sealed the whole underside of my car, not only the floor pan area that I welded, but other gaps that I saw. However, now I am second guessing myself hoping that I did not seal any openings that were meant to drain water if it gets in the quarter panels, torque boxes or inside the car. The front torque boxes drains are open. Now, my questions are: where do the rear torque boxes drain if they do? Where is the drain from the quarter panel under the rear side windows? Any other drain holes/openings that I need to be aware off. I don't want to seal what was meant to be open.

Please look at this pictures. If there is a drain by the front bolt of the rear spring I may have sealed it. No big deal, because I can undo it. Please advise about drain holes that are meant to be.

Today with the help of light I was able to find the drain from the inside of the rear quarter. It basically drains through the rear of the rocker. I still don't know if the rear torque boxes have a drain like the front ones do.

 

[tony-muscle]

I have been slowly adding insulation and Dynamat to the inside. I Dyanmated the rear seat and quarter area. Also the firewall. And last night I installed QuietRide's firewall insulation. I was able to install the insulation with the A/C, pedals and column in place. I just made cuts along the molded openings to allow for the insulation to wrap around all the accessories and bolts. It went better than what I thought. I think it helps to have small arms/hands that can get though all these small openings. I can't wait until I can test if all this insulation is worth it.

I am still waiting for one of the seat platforms to show up so I can finish all up. As I wait I have been also working on updating/cleaning the dash, wiring and trim. I also tackled the suspension, steering and breaks on the driver's side. This weekend I am hoping to install and test the new led lighting for the dash plus the new Retrosound radio.

Very nicely done. Now you get to cover it all up so no one can see your fantastic work.

You know Jeff, so sad and so true. As I am Dynamating the interior now I see all these areas that I spent so much time trying to make look nice to be covered in a nice shiny foil that says Dynamat. I guess anyone could do a crappy job and cover it all up with Dynamat and no average car guy would know the difference.

 

[73pony]

I have been slowly adding insulation and Dynamat to the inside. I Dyanmated the rear seat and quarter area. Also the firewall. And last night I installed QuietRide's firewall insulation. I was able to install the insulation with the A/C, pedals and column in place. I just made cuts along the molded openings to allow for the insulation to wrap around all the accessories and bolts. It went better than what I thought. I think it helps to have small arms/hands that can get though all these small openings. I can't wait until I can test if all this insulation is worth it.

I am still waiting for one of the seat platforms to show up so I can finish all up. As I wait I have been also working on updating/cleaning the dash, wiring and trim. I also tackled the suspension, steering and breaks on the driver's side. This weekend I am hoping to install and test the new led lighting for the dash plus the new Retrosound radio.

Very nicely done. Now you get to cover it all up so no one can see your fantastic work.

You know Jeff, so sad and so true. As I am Dynamating the interior now I see all these areas that I spent so much time trying to make look nice to be covered in a nice shiny foil that says Dynamat. I guess anyone could do a crappy job and cover it all up with Dynamat and no average car guy would know the difference.

So Being 6'2"+ with large hands I am going to have a hard time doing my sound deadening? Damn, I kind of figured. I felt like a pretzel trying to mount my clutch pedal already. I too am hoping the sound deadener helps.

 

[tony-muscle]

So Being 6'2"+ with large hands I am going to have a hard time doing my sound deadening? Damn, I kind of figured. I felt like a pretzel trying to mount my clutch pedal already. I too am hoping the sound deadener helps.

Pretzel [emoji1] .... thats a good way to describe how i felt when i was working in the area behind and under the dash. Obviously, if you are doing a full restoration, the dash and a/c box wont be there so you dont need to worry about it.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 

[tony-muscle]

Tonight I couldn't sleep so I decided to upload some pictures of the final steps of this work. I finally completed the interior back in August and felt I owed this thread posting some pictures.

Basically, after finishing the floors. I installed Dynamat all over, but with only about 75+% coverage. Then I installed the carpet underlayment kit that I bought from CJP and then the mass back cut-pile carpet from ACC. Installation of all these was straight forward. I moved slowly and patiently. The way I tackled the issue of the screws from the center console is to take it one step at a time. I first installed the center console over the Dynamat to find the screw holes. Once I perforated the Dynamat I measured the location of the console and removed it. Then I installed the back half of the carpet and reinstalled the console using the uncarpeted front holes as a guide. Again, perforated through the rear half carpet and removed the console. Finally, laid out the front half of the carpet and reinstalled the console using the back half as a guide. I also used the measurements to help center the console over the holes. It took a bit of tweaking, but eventually I found the screw holes. Needless to say, the car drives much more quiet.

Here are the pictures showing the final stages.

 

[tony-muscle]

And, I don't think I ever posted pictures of the seat platforms in place. I used the coupe platforms that as we know are taller than the fastbacks. What I did was making a few cuts along the legs of the platforms and then hammer the hell out of them to flatten them out. That's why the edge of the platform looks a bit rounded. I was able to get them back down to about 1/4" taller than factory.