My 1973 project daily driver

[JDuvall]

It was built late 1972 . That’s what the Marti report says.

 

[JDuvall]

Looks like I am getting a new heater box.

 

[351c1971]

I had the same problem with replacing my master cylinder. Never did find an aftermarket one that didn't come with a brake line adapter fitting.
My application was for power disc brakes. here are two part numbers that worked for me:
Cardone 131526 (might be obsolete)
Raybestos MC36445 (Rock Auto Parts)

 

[351c1971]

Double check the Raybestos part number for your application, just in case. I have about 25 pages of master cylinder specifications, orders, packing slips and notes on master cylinders from about 9 months ago.

 

[JDuvall]

As for my master cylinder it ended up having an adapter on the drum brake port.
I kept my original.
The correct one has 1/2-20 threads on port one (drum) , 7/16-24 threads.
My car has the power disc brakes and the 2” rear drum setup. The issue I ran into is no one shows the port thread sizes on the websites. Oriely’s has port sizes but only to the clerk can see them.

 

[351c1971]

These MC part #s are for Power Disc Brake applications:
Cardone 131526 has 7/16" x 24 Primary Port and 1/2" x 20 Secondary Port (I believe this part is now obsolete)
Raybestos MC36445 has 7/16" x 24 Primary Port and 3/8" x 24 Secondary Port (comes with adapter)
I found these port sizes in the manufacturer links in the Rock Auto catalog.

 

[JDuvall]

New shift boot, and air box. Now only if could figure out the flapper removal.

 

[Sheriff41]

I don't recall removing the flapper door but it's been a long time. That said, the shaft the door pivots on should be a friction fit. If you grasp the door and twist the shaft while pulling it outward you should be able to work the shaft out and remove the two pieces. Note the position of the door and the bell crank end of the shaft for reinstallation

 

[JDuvall]

Upgraded to a pop open gas cap. I do think it looks better.

 

[JDuvall]

New upgrades. Added a 150amp 1 wire alternator (first step to reading the car!), new steering wheel, and new carburetor (replaced the street demon, could not get the hesitation out of the carb).
More to come with the new electrical.

 

[PoFoMoCo]

Well done!

 

[70sElvis]

Welcome from Mississippi.

 

[Paul M]

Nice options list, it should be well worth the hassle. I picked mine up 3 years ago and am finally terrorizing the neighborhood in it. This car is way too fun to drive & I will be roasting the tires today since I just "legally" tagged it last Fri. Stay the course.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Great progress, keep it up, helps to keep me motivated.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

New upgrades. Added a 150amp 1 wire alternator (first step to reading the car!), new steering wheel, and new carburetor (replaced the street demon, could not get the hesitation out of the carb).
More to come with the new electrical.

Did your new Brawler Carb smooth out the Barry Grant carb hesitation?

 

[JDuvall]

Did your new Brawler Carb smooth out the Barry Grant carb hesitation?

Yes, hesitation is gone. I tried everything with the other carb, the brawler is a 650 double pumper mechanical secondaries.
The Street demon was a 750, with mechanical secondaries.

 

[mrgmhale]

Very nice looking Mustang. We have two 73 Mustangs, a Mach 1 and a Convertible. The vert was barn stored over 40 years, and has about 21,000 original miles on it - and is in near perfect preserved condition. The Mach 1 was deeply restored ($$), and is in really near-perfect condition. I did some upgrades to both Mustangs I thought you may be interested in knowing more about. But, first, I note your Mustang originally had A/C, but the compressor is missing. Both of ours were originally non-A/C cars I added Classic Air A/C kits to, and I could not be happier for having done it. Classic Air also has a division that specializes in getting oem replacement A/C parts for folks preferring to heep their original parts in place where they can. Following are both of their web links:

https://www.classicautoair.com/
https://www.originalair.com/

We had idiot light instrument panels in both cars originally. Replaced both panels with Dakota VHX analog units.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dak...i60j69i61l2.4433j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
I replaced both radiators with three row aluminum radiators, along with an aluminum shroud with dual electric fans. I have some YouTube links showing how I did that, plus how I added a Fan On LED light alert system. In the YouTube descriptions I provide parts lists and vendor links.

https://youtu.be/T5DrC2zrpIA

https://youtu.be/ErDOMJ1hOnA


I also added a Garmin Drive 72 GPS with optional backup camera unit.

I also installed a WebCam.

Of course, all that meant I had to upgrade my alternators, but you already have that covered.

And finally, I added full length ACP center console units, where I took out the center ash tray and installed a fabricated Power Panel with two 12 volt outlets, a dual USB outlet, and a digital voltmeter.

if any of the above projects we did interest you let me know and I will provide various files and links so you can see how we pulled it off. Meanwhile, here is a YouTube link to a walk-around video of the 73 Mach 1 on its last day or restoration:

https://youtu.be/_Fl0B-qmlLI

Attached are some photos of the vert.

Finally, in case you need info on the engine vacuum system routing, I have the 1973 emission control calibrations with the 351 4v calibrations missing in the shop manual inserted. That file is attached. If you need the electrical schematic (1973 is really an excellent manual) you can go to the following link for it and other manuals:

https://www.forelpublishing.com/clickbank/index.html


One other thing we did on the Mach 1 was replace its C4 auto tranny with an AOD 4 speed automatic tranny. I suspect you will keep yours as a 4 speed manual.

Have fun with it!

 

[JDuvall]

More progress, new shifter handle. Added a high torque starter with built in solenoid.
Added a relay box and a 12v+ bus bar to handle all the power connections. New optima red top battery. Put in a new dome light my was missing. Still working on the dash going to relocate the fuses to the glove box and looking at adding a tach with gauges in the instrument cluster, may work may not will keep you updated.

 

[Steve McMahan]

It all looks great.

 

[JDuvall]

My glovebox electrical panel is ready to install. The three fuse block are left to right, battery powered, lights switch powered, ignition switch powered.
The leds in center of the blocks light up if fuse is blown.
Will update ones installed .