NEED ASAP. Ia rag joint for the tilt column. For my wife's surprize resto

[NG8264723]

I need the elusive rag joint tilt only. I have a few weeks to finish the car for my wife.  I am giving it to her as a surprise for our 20th

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I need the elusive rag joint tilt only. I have a few weeks to finish the car for my wife.  I am giving it to her as a surprise for our 20th

That is a fable they are everywhere. Your local parts house should have the kits in the Help rack. I just put one on my 1973 mustang vert with tilt. Just take your old one and match up diameter. The brand is Dorman but is usually found on the Help rack with things like window cranks. I have the empty pack somewhere with the part number but I think it was this one 3100 for $9.97 from Summit. Call your local parts house and see if they do not have it. You have to grind the old rivets out and use the screws to install the new rubber but it works fine. Here is link to the Summit listing.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-31000

I do not think the rag joint is different between tilt and non tilt? Do not know for sure but why would it be the tilt is at the top of the column not the bottom.

 

[NG8264723]

I appreciate your help but you would be mistaken

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d1zz-3a525-b.html

 

[Don C]

David is not wrong, he showed you the flexible part of the rag joint, they are widely available. What is not so easy to find is the complete OEM assembly for tilt columns, as shown on the WCCC's site. It's easy to use your metal connectors/brackets and replace just the flexible portion.

You can get the bottom half of one from vendors, that has the flex disk and the connector to the steering box shaft. These come in two sizes, one​ for manual and one for power.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I have four cars with tilt column, all PS, 73 Q code Mach 1, 73 H code Vert, 72 Q code Vert, 72 H code Vert plus I have one spare column. The only difference is the wiring for 73 had change made to the connection from the turn signal. The flex part is same on all and I used the one that I posted the number for. You do not get the forged shaft connector that is different shown in the WCCC ad only the flex connector, bolts and safety posts that hit if the coupling fails.  Hope you did not toss the old one pretty easy to rebuild. Brake fluid, heat and oil is what kills the rubber.

The turn signal mech. is different in all years of tilt due to that being part of the tilt mech. They are available new as a repo..

I found a couple pictures of the last one I rebuilt with new turn signal mech. and replaced the rag joint. That is the parts house rag joint in the pic.









free ssl image hosting

 

[NG8264723]

I know. I need the entire thing! Metal and all. Is the bottom of the nontilt the same as the tilt? I found a 70 tilt I could use the top off of if that is the case

 

[Bentworker]

Steering box end should be the same. Not 100% but 99.5% sure

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Since this steering box was used on GM also, and made by GM, is it possible that they used the same coupling at least on the box end? Link to GM one on Ebay cheap $29.95.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camaro-Steering-Shaft-Coupler-Assembly-For-Cars-With-PowerSteering-1967-1976-/171860613144?hash=item2803b0d818:g:kbsAAOSwYmZXGZdh&vxp=mtr

 

[Bentworker]

I know the Ford Saginaw power steering boxes have a 13/16" input shaft, but I am not positive on spline count (maybe 30...maybe 36?)

If you count the splines on your box (including ones that would be there where the flat spot is milled you should be able to figure out what you have and more forward.

Could do the same thing for the steering shaft on the tilt column, OD of the splined section of the shaft plus a count of splines.

 

[Don C]

The part that connects to the steering box is the same for tilt and non-tilt as long as it's the same type of box. The ones for power steering and manual boxes are different.

 

[NG8264723]

Still need the top............

 

[Bentworker]

Still need the top............

Go measure the spline diameter and count on your column (incuding the ones milled off for any flat spots).  Once you post that handy bit of info I'm sure something can be found that would work.

Peter

 

[NG8264723]

the top is not splined it is a 3/4 "D"

 

[Bentworker]

Speedway motors sells this one, it is for double D shaft.



The box end of it is incorrect, you could do one of two things.

1) Drill the rivets and bolt the 13/16 end from another coupler onto it.

2) Get the input out of the newer 3/4" GM Saginaw box (1978? + newer) and put it in your box.

 

[NG8264723]

Thanks for the link but my shaft is a "D" not a double "D". I could make that work but it would require machining

 

[Bentworker]

Single D... That is weird, explains why WCCC wants them in any condition.

You might be able to use a Borgeson 054940. I don't know if it is clocked correctly, but like you say it could be made into a single D on a milling machine with a rotary table. A machine shop should be able to do it in an hour or less.

 

[Don C]

They're not really even a single "D", they're more like a splined shaft with a 1/4 or 5/16" wide flat spot on it. WCCC shows a picture of it.