Need help Installing power window switch?

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Scubaman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2022
Messages
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Location
Florida
My Car
73 convertible
Has anyone had trouble installing power window switch into a new driver side door panel. I am trying to get this switch to fit but the panel appears too thick for the bezel to mount properly. This is the bezel I am trying to mount? is this the correct bezel and power window switch for this panel? Are the reproduction door panels thicker than original? Is there some trick to mounting the bezel/switch flush with the panel?
 

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The bezel has two clips on top. With the master switch housing in place, install the door panel aligning the switche thru the panel opening. Once the door panel is fully installed, take the switch bezel/cover and slip the two top clips in behind the door panel and rotate the bezel down and over the switch housing. Place the chrome screw thru the bezel screw hole at the bottom and screw it into the hole in the switch housing to hold the assembly in place. Make sure the door panel is cut out to expose the screw hole in the switch (see the factory cut in the picture. A slightly thicker door panel should not cause an issue.
20160112_201328.jpg
 
Has anyone had trouble installing power window switch into a new driver side door panel. I am trying to get this switch to fit but the panel appears too thick for the bezel to mount properly. This is the bezel I am trying to mount? is this the correct bezel and power window switch for this panel? Are the reproduction door panels thicker than original? Is there some trick to mounting the bezel/switch flush with the panel?
I also have electric windows but my cover is completely different, I think yours is not original
 
Thanks for your reply. Your power window switch looks very nice but I believe yours is a more modern replacement sold by CJ or NPD. People go to this switch because the original parts are so hard to find.
Could be wrong but I believe this is correct. see diagram below and look closely at the switch.

Mustang diagram door panels  power windows copy.jpg
 
Dang, that looks nice. I have been trying to resist installing power window motors, linkage, and switches in our 73 Mustangs. You are not helping my resistance in that regard (thank you)! heh heh...
 
I also have electric windows but my cover is completely different, I think yours is not original
The cover Scubaman has is correct for a 1973 model year. 71 & 71 used the cover you have in your picture. I love that Vermillion interior.DSC_0607 cropped.JPG
 
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Rich your interior is really nice. Really like the Comfortweave.

I have owned my ‘73 convertible for 20 years and The restoration back then was pretty good on exterior but the interior has fit and finish has always needed addressing. Im going back over it now. Appreciate any assistance.
 

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Thank you. I have owned this 73 vert since 1995, but it sat covered on the side of my house until 2013, when I moved from New Jersey to Delaware. I took it with me to Delaware, in 2015 I finally decided to start the tear-down and get it restored. Over the twenty years prior to starting the project, I collected NOS and original parts when I could find them. Fortunately, 15 to 120 years ago you could still get them, and without breaking the bank. The door panels are the originals I bought about twenty years ago. As far as the comfort weave and the vinyl material goes, the rear seats were near perfect, but the fronts needed new seat bottoms and the driver's seat needed the lower back section of Comfort weave replaced. Much of the front seat vinyl had wear marks and fading. I hated the thought of replacing it all with repro stuff that did not have the correct Comforweave. So I scoured the Mustang junk yards (before eBay was invented) for 72 or 73 convertibles with nice rear seat material. I also found a bolster of Ginger vinyl that matched the original vinyl pattern. Ginger vinyl is not a solid color, it's kind of mottled and the color varied greatly from the dash, kick panels, sun visors to the seat back panels and rear quarters. Anyway, I had a guy use as much of the original stuff and replaced the sections that needed to be replaced with what I had accumulated. The comfort weave from the rear donor seats was sectioned in at the tuck and roll seams.

The car's sheet metal needed extensive replacing, otherwise, the car was unmolested and complete. Here is a link to the project thread I posted years ago,,, https://7173mustangs.com/threads/73-convertible-restoration-project.28482/ . I have tons of pictures, so if I can fill in any gaps, I'll be happy to help.
 

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This is 71-72
The other larger one is 73
 
I know these are not the best photos but here is the door panel I am dealing with. It has a black plastic backing and seems very nice. The problem is it is very thick. When I try to attach the chrome bezel it cannot get close enough to the switch so that the button module can plug into the base. Will try to get better photos
 

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I know these are not the best photos but here is the door panel I am dealing with. It has a black plastic backing and seems very nice. The problem is it is very thick. When I try to attach the chrome bezel it cannot get close enough to the switch so that the button module can plug into the base. Will try to get better photos
Here is the cutout on my original door panel. It's a little to say. but they both look very in thickness. Could the switch box be recessed too far back from the door panel?Door Panel Switch cut out.JPG
 
I will take better photos to explain. But when I put the switch box into the cutout from the back of the panel the two clips on the sides clip into the black backing just fine. But when I attaché the bezel on the other side with the clips on the bezel it is too far away from switch plate to fit snugly. The window buttons work but the bezel looks sloppy on the door.
 
Y'all are killing me! Here I am, retired (comfortably), and I want to remain retired comfortably. A few errant diversions here and there won't kill me or ruin our retirement. I guess I am concerned that if I cave and install oem or aftermarket power windows on one of our 73 Mustangs I will end up wanting to do both. Then the slippery slope begins. I will have survived the expense of both Mustangs with full blown power window kits, so why not rebuilt the Mach 1's engine and beef it up a lot more than its current moderate Street/Strip build yielding 360HP as it is? While I am at it the 73 Mustang Convertible's 302 2v could stand some power enhancement, a lower rear axle gear kit (2.79:1 >>> 3.5:1 TractionLok, like was done for the Mach 1), which will then lead to me swapping out its C4 tranny and dropping in a 4R70W OverDrive tranny with an electronic control unit (Mach 1 has an earlier AOD already).

My gawd, where does it end?!? And then there are Power Door Locks to consider, although the Power Windows are a more practical want (not really a need, but...) - especially for the vert when I drop the top and want to roll the windows down so I do not look goofy going down the road with the top down but windows up... We do not drive in inclement weather with the pony cars, so no need for a rear window defroster... So, were I to move down tht dark rabbit hole I guess there is a practical stopping point along the way... I need to stand back and see these choices for what they are - opportunities to prove I am now a sensible adult with responsibilities to meet by holding the line at expenses that are not necessary. But, the "Mustang" in me makes that so very hard... The pain is real, folks, it's real...

I have got to stop and take ahold of my own throat and keep myself from going down that dark path. Needlessly, as truth be told both of our 73 Mustangs are already in terrific condition and everything on them is working properly. I have no need to do any further enhancements or upgrades. Then I see a thread like this... heh heh...

Oh, the trials and tribulations of being a Mustang/Shelby super fan... Please, somebody stop me!
 
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