New Carb No Start

[Don C]

The MSD distributor has a built-in ignition module, no points.

When the engine is cranking the negative terminal on the coil should pulse as the ignition module applies a ground, charging the coil, then remove the coil so the field collapses, creating the high voltage pulse to the spark plugs. If you connect a voltmeter to the negative coil terminal and crank the engine and the voltage on the negative terminal does not change, the MSD distributor ignition module is bad, or not connected correctly.

 

[icejawa]

Ok thanks for the tip I will check it out. The odd thing is that the previous owner has some different wiring harness coming from the distributor with a black/orange/red set of wires. He had the red going to the + post on the coil, orange to - and black grounded to the intake manifold, but I believe those are all correct. I don't have the MSD ignition box just a voltage regulator. I hope the problem is as simple as my ignition module going bad, the car did backfire more and more as time progressed

 

[Don C]

The MSD wiring instructions shows the red wire from the distributor connects to the positive terminal on the coil, the orange wire to the negative terminal on the coil, and the black wire from the distributor to ground. You also have to have the wire from the ignition switch connected to the positive coil terminal.

 

[icejawa]

Yep thats all good. I'm going to try to replace the module in the distributor tomorrow

 

[icejawa]

The distributor came out easy as hell and it slides back in easily too. The gears look flawless and I just now have to figure out how to get the shaft to come out so I can access the module inside

Update: I think I'll have to RMA the distributor to MSD to be rebuilt because the module I was trying to replace is hard wired into the circuit board inside. The part I bought was the magnetic pickup module and it has a 2 pin connector and I'm not gonna even attempt to solder it in there myself...

Just for shits I tried throwing the distributor at different timings to try and produce any spark but I get no spark in any of the cylinders. I'm convinced I need to send it in for a RMA since it has the damn built in ignition module, which I can't buy as a part I guess

 

[icejawa]

Turns out the ignition module inside was indeed broken from being 5 years old. The cost of a rebuild would be $140. Should I do it or just buy a summit racing distributor? (also $140)

 

[c9zx]

I just went down a similar road with a new build. It took three after market distributors to get one that actually had the proper size gear (2 off by +.008-.0013). Also 2 of the three did not have a press fit gear, slipped right off. The only thing holding in place was the roll pin, a formula for disaster. I finally went to the MSD billet and the gear dimension were right and the gear was press fit and pinned, went right in. I would love to find a good alternative to MSD but, haven't found one yet.

   I would send it in to be rebuilt. That is just my opinion, others may disagree. Chuck

 

[icejawa]

I sent my MSD in to be rebuilt but in the mean time I have a Summit Racing Ford HEI Distributor that I am trying to throw in there while I wait. The problem is that the water neck (where the radiator hose connects) is too big to seat the distributor all the way. After pulling the radiator hose off I can see the water neck has a huge deposit built up of crap in it so I want to replace it. Anyone here know a good replacement that will clear the huge HEI distributor?

 

[Don C]

They made a thermostat housing with a 45° angled neck for 351M/400 engines that should fit, but I don't know if it will give you the clearance you need. 429 and 460 engines have 90° angled thermostat housing necks, I believe they will fit, but not 100% sure, about 90%. The 90° one will require a modified or different upper radiator hose. A stock might fit the 45° one from 351M/400 engines. An upper radiator hose from a 429 Thunderbird might work, and an upper hose from a late '70s Ford pickup with a 351M or 400 engine might work for the 45° angled one.

 

[icejawa]

I ended up buying a scott drake "replacement" for a 69 mach thats short on the block and I got the distributor in there. Great news the engine almost started and I get a huge blue spark in my tester. I think my battery is dead so I have it charging and I will tune the carb. I think I'll just sell my MSD distributor and coil if this distributor lasts. Yahooo

 

[mudbilly]

You got my curiosity up because I got a HEI with my motor and never really payed any attention to how the water intake was. I did know that I had to get an offset air filter to fit it from behind, but never looked at the front end.

On my 302 the water intake is cast right into the intake manifold, I don't know if this is an option or all Performer 289's come this way ::shrug::

 

 

[73pony]

Cleveland’s run a dry intake. The water neck is the the block.

 

[icejawa]

Of course one of the water neck bolts snapped today when I was putting a better gasket on. How the hell would I get a small stud like that out? I tried vice grips but they arent working. I should've replaced those since they probably have seen heat so many times it weakened them

 

[vintageman]

You can use an EZ out kit to extract the bolt, I have had to do that a few times on other projects. Got a cheap set at Harbor Freight and worked like a charm. Or if you have some of the bolt with threads still sticking out of the engine, put a nut on it, then do a couple tack welds on the center of the nut so that it is secured, then use a socket to remove the broken bolt. Had to do that on a broken exhaust manifold stud. Good luck.

Tom

 

[Fabrice]

@icejawa

You're one lucky guy!

+1 on the Vintageman way if the bolt is in iron.

If you don't have a welding machine, and the stud is high enough, you could use 2 thin bolts (or grind 2 bolts), where the second is bolted to the first, and use both to loose it.

Penetrating oil + use a dremel to cut a groove on the top to use a flat screwdriver is another one.

Good luck!

 

[icejawa]

Welding a nut to it would certainly work but I don't have a welder or know how to weld. The stud is in there real tight, would jb weld work with a nut? I doubt it. Either I will have to buy a welder or get it towed to a mechanic. This car is satan himself

 

[icejawa]

I found one for rent from Home Depot now I just have to practice weld some random stuff

 

[vintageman]

Its not hard at all to make a few tack welds, you can definitely do it. Get a small piece of sheet metal from home depot, cut a couple strips off to practice on, and have at it. I practiced for about and hour or so and I can make decent plug welds. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Tom

 

[mudbilly]

just make sure you don't blind yourself.

 

[icejawa]

Got that damn bastard out on the 3rd weld, now I just have to find some good top grade bolts to throw in there with lots of anti seize. Thanks for the great advice guys, all the idiots at the "car repair stores" kept telling me to drill and tap the stud or "use an EZ out" which is just the most moronic thing I've ever heard. Dumb kids my age don't understand this isn't a crappy honda civic where the car is a worthless hunk of aluminum, because they weren't raised right. I spent $50 to rent a welder and got that damn stud out compared to breaking countless "EZ outs".