- Joined
- Apr 24, 2020
- Messages
- 1,237
- Reaction score
- 1,300
- Location
- Pittsford, NY
- My Car
- My all time favorite vehicle is our 1969 Shelby GT500
Hi! I am a little late to this thread, having taken a few weeks off to travel to Florida and visit some other places during the journey from Upstate NY to Florida and back.
You have a beautiful Mach 1, and I am glad you posted some photos and the Marti Report. When I first saw photos of your Mach 1 I was pretty sure it is the color our 73 Mach 1 was originally. Thanks to your window sticker and Marti Report I was able to verify it was indeed the color ours used to be originally. And the interior is Ginger, also (for both of our 73 Mustangs). It is a really nice looking color (5T Saddle Bronze Metallic). I always wondered what our Mach 1 looked like in its original color. Now I know, and I like it (also).
The 2nd owner of our Mach 1 worked in the automotive paint industry, and opted to have the Mach 1 very nicely repainted using Valspar Sunset, a translucent fine grain metallic. It was a striking color that definitely grabbed the attention of anyone who saw it. We are the 3rd owners, after the prior owner sold it after becoming too ill to drive it any longer (he had it for 35 years). By the time we got it there was some significant rust deep inside various seams and nooks and crannies behind the bright trim pieces.
We opted to do a deep restoration, resectioning quarter panels while retaining as much original metal as possible, using lead to refill seams after deep lying rust was removed, and replacing metal beneath the bright trim pieces and in the trunk's rear panel. It really turned out well, and took 13 1/2 months, and well into 6 figures, to get it done like we wanted - like the breed deserves. We opted to repaint it using PPG Orange Sunset, which is also a translucent fine grain metallic, but a slightly darker hue than the Valspar Sunset. It was shot over a base white for its candy color effect. There are 3-4 coats of primer that was blocked and sanded between each coat. For the color and clear coats (3-4 coats of each) once again each layer was blocked and wet sanded before the subsequent color or clear was shot. The blackout treatment was shot using PPG Hot Rod Black Matte to provide the diffused reflection effect while keeping the surface smooth. I really did not want a flat black surface with its inherent rough texture.
The front spoiler was on the Mach 1 before we acquired it, likely added by one of the two prior owners. When we did the restoration we added the rear wing, the rear window louver slats, and the Dzus hood hold-downs. The interior was in near perfect condition so we left it alone other than adding a full length center console, and replacing the idiot light laden instrument panel with a Dakota VHX analog gauge equipped panel. We also added a fabricated Power Panel in the center console ash tray location, which provides two 12 volt outlets, and a dual USB outlet, mounted a pair of magnetic stands for cellular phone or tablet mounting, a Garmin Drive 51 GPS/Backup Camera display, and a webcam. A link showing the details re : the Garmin GPS/Backup Camera and center console for our 73 Mustang Convertible (which had the same interior enhancements made to it as out 73 Mach 1) is located at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSxEBNDKp7o
The Mach 1 tended to run very hot when idling for prolonged periods and when driving under 20 MPG. The prior owner had replaced the original 302 2v engine with a 1994 F-150 351W (not C) that was rebuilt for street/strip performance, and put out modest but still punchy 360HP on a dyno. The original radiator was replaced with a larger radiator, but the original fan shroud was being used, which did not fit well, and could not do a very good job of properly directing air over the cooling tubes and fins of the radiator. Once we got up to 25 MPH the engine temp would go back to 195 - 200 degrees, so I knew airflow at idle and very long speeds was the issue.
Rather than getting a properly fitting fan shroud, I took this situation as an "opportunity" to install a new Champion3 row aluminum radiator with a properly fitting aluminum shroud and dual electric fans. The fans are controlled by an adjustable thermostat through a fan relay. The thermostat uses a bourdon tube thermocouple and capillary tube to send trigger voltage to the fan relay at a threshhold temperature setting (I have it set for 200 degrees F), where the thermocouple is placed inside the upper radiator hose, just after the thermostat housing outlet. I have another video showing how I did that upgrade to the cooling system at:
https://youtu.be/T5DrC2zrpIA
I also fabricated and installed a way to monitor state of the cooling fan power using a set of LED lights mounted under the hood at the rear edge, just in front of the driver. That was a lot of fun to do, and worked out very nicely. The video for that project (done on both 73 Mustangs also) is at:
https://youtu.be/ErDOMJ1hOnA
I opened up the NACA/NASA air scoop inlets by removing the block plate. I was not all that concerned with Ram Air being directed at the air filter inlet as I was in bringing cool air into the upper engine compartment. I leave the inlets open, as opposed to using the inlet valve flapper vacuum control motors. Just because.
Both 73 Mustangs came with a 302 2v engine. For the Convertible the engine is in stock form, other than the electric cooling fans, and the additional of a coolant recovery tank (for both Mustangs), and the installation of a Pertronix electronic ignition system. We also added Classic Air A/C to both Mustangs, and upgraded the alternators to provide more than the oem 43 amp output (now 65+ amps) they used to have originally. They are both really nice running and reliable vehicles.
Both Mustangs came with C-4 auto transmissions from the factory. But, due to the swapping of the Mach 1's rear axle (by the prior owner) from 2.79:1 gears to a 3.5:1 TractionLok gear set, I decided to swap its C-4 with an AOD - which turned out to be a great move. I was able to preserve the benefit of the 3.5:1 rear axle ratio for low speed performance, while regaining the upper end performance - largely due to the power the engine has available to help overcome the impact of air resistance at triple digit speeds. I video recorded that entire tranny swap, and have a list of parts and vendors for anyone interested in that info. Links to the Mach 1's various AOD project documentation files and YouTube videos are provided below.
Following are links to a collection of restoration progress photos placed into a video, and a walk-around video on the last day of its restoration.
https://youtu.be/y0MiVAFj_sQ
https://youtu.be/_Fl0B-qmlLI
AOD Project links to project documents:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-lnrDwhEKchMgNDYtRrIBkbNYjtrt3C9?usp=drive_link
AOD Project links to project videos:
https://youtu.be/jrdKCcPKv_Y
https://youtu.be/MZwXbJKdDKo
The following link is for the Neutral Safety/Backup Light Switch splicing:
https://youtu.be/zzDmFjFfT-A
https://youtu.be/iFNXTGXNNcQ
https://youtu.be/2tTwnbcZZkY
https://youtu.be/8QncIKQTvNo
https://youtu.be/b4lnPReGWuM
https://youtu.be/zfYe--Gsjdk
Setting up Throttle Valve Pressure from the carburetor cabling, and how the original auto tranny floor shifter behaves with the AOD when shifting manually:
https://youtu.be/KYIAqqYUKNo
This video shows there is a difference between TV pressures in Neutral vs Park:
https://youtu.be/6hZJEnGCPvY
This is a link showing the impact on engine RPM at 60 MPH with the AOD in 3rd/Drive gear, and then in 4th/OverDrive gear. In the AOD, 3rd gear is a 1:1 ratio, just like 3rd gear in a C4. FMX, or C6 automatic transmission.
https://youtu.be/zfYe--Gsjdk
Another Throttle Valve Pressure Adjustment “outside” video is :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqkfoNBsJWg
You have a beautiful Mach 1, and I am glad you posted some photos and the Marti Report. When I first saw photos of your Mach 1 I was pretty sure it is the color our 73 Mach 1 was originally. Thanks to your window sticker and Marti Report I was able to verify it was indeed the color ours used to be originally. And the interior is Ginger, also (for both of our 73 Mustangs). It is a really nice looking color (5T Saddle Bronze Metallic). I always wondered what our Mach 1 looked like in its original color. Now I know, and I like it (also).
The 2nd owner of our Mach 1 worked in the automotive paint industry, and opted to have the Mach 1 very nicely repainted using Valspar Sunset, a translucent fine grain metallic. It was a striking color that definitely grabbed the attention of anyone who saw it. We are the 3rd owners, after the prior owner sold it after becoming too ill to drive it any longer (he had it for 35 years). By the time we got it there was some significant rust deep inside various seams and nooks and crannies behind the bright trim pieces.
We opted to do a deep restoration, resectioning quarter panels while retaining as much original metal as possible, using lead to refill seams after deep lying rust was removed, and replacing metal beneath the bright trim pieces and in the trunk's rear panel. It really turned out well, and took 13 1/2 months, and well into 6 figures, to get it done like we wanted - like the breed deserves. We opted to repaint it using PPG Orange Sunset, which is also a translucent fine grain metallic, but a slightly darker hue than the Valspar Sunset. It was shot over a base white for its candy color effect. There are 3-4 coats of primer that was blocked and sanded between each coat. For the color and clear coats (3-4 coats of each) once again each layer was blocked and wet sanded before the subsequent color or clear was shot. The blackout treatment was shot using PPG Hot Rod Black Matte to provide the diffused reflection effect while keeping the surface smooth. I really did not want a flat black surface with its inherent rough texture.
The front spoiler was on the Mach 1 before we acquired it, likely added by one of the two prior owners. When we did the restoration we added the rear wing, the rear window louver slats, and the Dzus hood hold-downs. The interior was in near perfect condition so we left it alone other than adding a full length center console, and replacing the idiot light laden instrument panel with a Dakota VHX analog gauge equipped panel. We also added a fabricated Power Panel in the center console ash tray location, which provides two 12 volt outlets, and a dual USB outlet, mounted a pair of magnetic stands for cellular phone or tablet mounting, a Garmin Drive 51 GPS/Backup Camera display, and a webcam. A link showing the details re : the Garmin GPS/Backup Camera and center console for our 73 Mustang Convertible (which had the same interior enhancements made to it as out 73 Mach 1) is located at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSxEBNDKp7o
The Mach 1 tended to run very hot when idling for prolonged periods and when driving under 20 MPG. The prior owner had replaced the original 302 2v engine with a 1994 F-150 351W (not C) that was rebuilt for street/strip performance, and put out modest but still punchy 360HP on a dyno. The original radiator was replaced with a larger radiator, but the original fan shroud was being used, which did not fit well, and could not do a very good job of properly directing air over the cooling tubes and fins of the radiator. Once we got up to 25 MPH the engine temp would go back to 195 - 200 degrees, so I knew airflow at idle and very long speeds was the issue.
Rather than getting a properly fitting fan shroud, I took this situation as an "opportunity" to install a new Champion3 row aluminum radiator with a properly fitting aluminum shroud and dual electric fans. The fans are controlled by an adjustable thermostat through a fan relay. The thermostat uses a bourdon tube thermocouple and capillary tube to send trigger voltage to the fan relay at a threshhold temperature setting (I have it set for 200 degrees F), where the thermocouple is placed inside the upper radiator hose, just after the thermostat housing outlet. I have another video showing how I did that upgrade to the cooling system at:
https://youtu.be/T5DrC2zrpIA
I also fabricated and installed a way to monitor state of the cooling fan power using a set of LED lights mounted under the hood at the rear edge, just in front of the driver. That was a lot of fun to do, and worked out very nicely. The video for that project (done on both 73 Mustangs also) is at:
https://youtu.be/ErDOMJ1hOnA
I opened up the NACA/NASA air scoop inlets by removing the block plate. I was not all that concerned with Ram Air being directed at the air filter inlet as I was in bringing cool air into the upper engine compartment. I leave the inlets open, as opposed to using the inlet valve flapper vacuum control motors. Just because.
Both 73 Mustangs came with a 302 2v engine. For the Convertible the engine is in stock form, other than the electric cooling fans, and the additional of a coolant recovery tank (for both Mustangs), and the installation of a Pertronix electronic ignition system. We also added Classic Air A/C to both Mustangs, and upgraded the alternators to provide more than the oem 43 amp output (now 65+ amps) they used to have originally. They are both really nice running and reliable vehicles.
Both Mustangs came with C-4 auto transmissions from the factory. But, due to the swapping of the Mach 1's rear axle (by the prior owner) from 2.79:1 gears to a 3.5:1 TractionLok gear set, I decided to swap its C-4 with an AOD - which turned out to be a great move. I was able to preserve the benefit of the 3.5:1 rear axle ratio for low speed performance, while regaining the upper end performance - largely due to the power the engine has available to help overcome the impact of air resistance at triple digit speeds. I video recorded that entire tranny swap, and have a list of parts and vendors for anyone interested in that info. Links to the Mach 1's various AOD project documentation files and YouTube videos are provided below.
Following are links to a collection of restoration progress photos placed into a video, and a walk-around video on the last day of its restoration.
https://youtu.be/y0MiVAFj_sQ
https://youtu.be/_Fl0B-qmlLI
AOD Project links to project documents:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-lnrDwhEKchMgNDYtRrIBkbNYjtrt3C9?usp=drive_link
AOD Project links to project videos:
https://youtu.be/jrdKCcPKv_Y
https://youtu.be/MZwXbJKdDKo
The following link is for the Neutral Safety/Backup Light Switch splicing:
https://youtu.be/zzDmFjFfT-A
https://youtu.be/iFNXTGXNNcQ
https://youtu.be/2tTwnbcZZkY
https://youtu.be/8QncIKQTvNo
https://youtu.be/b4lnPReGWuM
https://youtu.be/zfYe--Gsjdk
Setting up Throttle Valve Pressure from the carburetor cabling, and how the original auto tranny floor shifter behaves with the AOD when shifting manually:
https://youtu.be/KYIAqqYUKNo
This video shows there is a difference between TV pressures in Neutral vs Park:
https://youtu.be/6hZJEnGCPvY
This is a link showing the impact on engine RPM at 60 MPH with the AOD in 3rd/Drive gear, and then in 4th/OverDrive gear. In the AOD, 3rd gear is a 1:1 ratio, just like 3rd gear in a C4. FMX, or C6 automatic transmission.
https://youtu.be/zfYe--Gsjdk
Another Throttle Valve Pressure Adjustment “outside” video is :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqkfoNBsJWg
Attachments
Last edited:
