Obscure fix: Intermittent, rough idle tied to sheared distributor rotor

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Jul 21, 2012
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Location
South Florida
My Car
'71 Mustang Mach 1 M-code "Soylent Green"
'69 Plymouth Valiant 100
'68 Plymouth Satellite
Afternoon, all:

I've been fighting a bizarre, completely intermittent rough idle issue on the '78 Mark V, which runs the Ford 400 with Duraspark II. It turns out the rotor centering tab was completely sheared off on the inside - something that could apply to just about any engine with a mechanical distributor (including Ford's 302/351W/351C).

This is what I found inside the distributor - little pieces of the centering tab strewn about. The Duraspark distributor is the same as you'd find in a '71-73 with a 351C, just with a magnetic pickup unit inside it instead of the cam-driven points and condenser, and a wide step-up plate to fit the big cap. In theory, this could happen to a points/condenser car too:

20paiz5.jpg


This is (was) the centering tab inside the Standard-branded plastic rotor:

16lagx2.jpg


The bad Standard rotor at left, and a replacement at right - which, quite honestly, looks like a really cheap part.

28sm3j9.jpg


This all seems simple upon reading the solution, but the odd part was trying to diagnose the problem. The engine would idle and run perfectly one moment, then it would begin hesitating out of nowhere - with NO backfire. Fuel delivery was fine, and attempts to force the engine to run in this situation caused one of the catalytic converters to glow red hot from a rich, unburnt mixture of fuel and air.

With the fuel system confirmed as not being a factor, this left the ignition system. The thing is, there's not much to fail intermittently in the ignition system - most of these parts (coil, Duraspark ignition module, magnetic pickup) either work at 100% or fail 100%; though Duraspark is known for heat failure - but the idle problem would crop up either cold or hot, and it could return to a good idle with no explanation at any time.

Of course, the problem was that the rotor was gradually rocking itself back on its shaft, thus retarding timing at will - but short of a malfunctioning vacuum advance with retard built in it (which this car did not have), it didn't make much sense.

My only concern at this point - now that I look at the photo of the dizzy - is that the shaft slot appears to be very sharp - and could have been the cause of the problem. I should note that the distributor cap itself showed no evidence of the rotor tip ever having come in direct contact with it.

Stress fracture from the injection molding process? Who knows? That rotor couldn't have had more than 1,500 miles on it - I remember replacing it about 4 years ago, and the Mark V hasn't seen over 30 miles over the last two years.

-Kurt

 
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These types of problems are hard to diagnose because visually everything looks fine. If you had taken it to a shop they would have charged you a arm and a leg for this simple fix.

One time on a dual point distributor I had the material that runs on the dizzy cam lobe that opens the points split so that the engine idled ok until the rpm increased. Visually everything looked just fine. I was stuck on the side of the freeway and finally found the issue, removed the bad point and set the gap for single points. Car started right up and was able to drive about 100 miles to get home. Never saw this happen before.

 
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How do the mechanical advance springs feel? I've seen where they are very loose and allow the low rpm timing to become erratic.

 
These types of problems are hard to diagnose because visually everything looks fine. If you had taken it to a shop they would have charged you a arm and a leg for this simple fix.
Bingo on point #1 - and now that I'm pretty good at spotting or repairing obvious problem areas, I've found that these obscure things are the ONLY problems I've had.

As for shops: Forget it. The only thing I won't do is a transmission, and that's only because I don't have a home lift to get to it. Otherwise, shops can kiss my fiddle-dee-dee.

Problem is, one tends to look for some sort of complex failure - case in point, I chased an intermittent no-start issue with my '69 Valiant for two weeks before I realized the divorced choke was set super rich. From what I can tell, it was a northern car that was bought at auction, brought down here, and flipped between three people before it found an owner willing to give a damn.

I was stuck on the side of the freeway and finally found the issue, removed the bad point and set the gap for single points.
I don't have a dual-point anything sitting around here (yet), but I'm definitely going to save that trick in the back of my head.

How do the mechanical advance springs feel? I've seen where they are very loose and allow the low rpm timing to become erratic.
Funny you should ask - I haven't checked, but I found a spare distributor in the shed. The EGR no longer exists on the car though - ideally, I should have lighter springs in it than factory spec to begin with.

I bet at some point the cap was on CrOoKeD and the rotor got caught andthe tab got stripped

I cant imagine that could ever happen naturally but you never know
Even though this cap is a two-piece deal (if you haven't seen one, let me know), the cap has zero evidence of having been whacked by the rotor, and I would have noted that during replacement of either cap or rotor.

The Standard Parts rotor (the one that failed) is a very hard plastic - the kind that you expect to see stress cracks in. My guess is that there was a void in the plastic, and it split.

At any rate, I can't find any example of this happening with a Google search. Only stripped dizzy gear teeth.

-Kurt

 
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Reminds me a little of the problem I had years ago when the engine died while driving. One moment it runs fine, the next it's off and won't start again.

In my case the middle part of the medal tab that is bent upwards and touches the center point had simply snapped off at the base.

No sputtering or anything.

I knew even less about cars than I do now and the guy sent by the automobile club concluded that there was something wrong with the EFI. Well duh! Of course the EFI does not work because there's none on the car to start with. :)

 
I knew even less about cars than I do now and the guy sent by the automobile club concluded that there was something wrong with the EFI. Well duh! Of course the EFI does not work because there's none on the car to start with. :)
Would be a lot of fun to see him try to find the coilpack.

-Kurt

 

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