Odd ignition key issue

[rcadd1ct]

I bought a new ignition cylinder and door lock set so I can have matching keys since my original door locks were lost.

Old key cylinder returns after start, but the new cylinder doesn’t.

Any suggestions?

Thx in advance.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Look over these pages from the Ford service manual:



The ignition switch itself has a spring that pushes the cylinder from start to run. I would remove the new cylinder, carefully put a screwdriver in the slot that engages the switch, and see if you feel resistance in the start location and if it returns by itself to run. That will at least determine where the problem is. Good luck.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Look over these pages from the Ford service manual:

View attachment 85748 View attachment 85749 View attachment 85750

The ignition switch itself has a spring that pushes the cylinder from start to run. I would remove the new cylinder, carefully put a screwdriver in the slot that engages the switch, and see if you feel resistance in the start location and if it returns by itself to run. That will at least determine where the problem is. Good luck.

Thx. I will look. Switch was replaced, too. It works with the old cylinder.

Guessing I might have to remove the cylinder and take bot to a locksmith and have them rekey the old cylinder with the new parts.

Hell I might attempt to do it.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I don’t think you’ll have to do that. It’s likely some bind in the interaction between the cylinder and the gear mechanism. BTW, did you put any lube in the rotating parts when you replaced the cylinder? I know I did when I replaced mine.

 

[70cobrascj]

I think these new replacements are junk. I tired the same thing and ended up putting my old one back in.

 

[tony-muscle]

I had issues with the spring of a replacement ignition switch. They are junk!
You can try adding an extra spring between plunger and rod to help push it back.

 

[tony-muscle]

I found a picture of where I added the extra spring. The spring has to be of the right length so it only pushes back when in crank position.

 

[rcadd1ct]

I don’t think you’ll have to do that. It’s likely some bind in the interaction between the cylinder and the gear mechanism. BTW, did you put any lube in the rotating parts when you replaced the cylinder? I know I did when I replaced mine.

Sprayed dry lube in there

 

[rcadd1ct]

I found a picture of where I added the extra spring. The spring has to be of the right length so it only pushes back when in crank position.
View attachment 85772

I might have to try this

Thx

 

[Steve McMahan]

I somehow got lucky with my NPD replacement switch. Works great. For those who have had bad luck, any brands others should avoid? Or does it make a differance?

 

[rcadd1ct]

I used a standard motor brand and the spring might not be strong enough

 

[tony-muscle]

Same here, I believe it was Standard Motor as well.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Just FYI, here are the parts I purchased from NPD that are working perfectly:



The keyed cylinder looks to be a NPD part number, but the actual switch is PYCL, Performance Years Classic Locks (www.pyautolocks.com).

 

[vintageman]

I may have to try the NPD one as well. My Standard Motor replacement stuck when I installed. I ended up removing the small brass pin that keeps the cylinder locked in place so it cannot be removed. Works very well now with the pin removed, also able to remove the cylinder without taking the steering wheel off. The brass pin should be spring loaded but binds and does not drop in place enough and stops the cylinder from fully returning from Start to Run position.

Good luck
Tom

 

[rcadd1ct]

I see this one from npd.

Is it the same?

Did you have to mod the wiring?

https://www.npdlink.com/product/ign...itch%2B&top_parent=200001&year=1972&year=1972

 

[Steve McMahan]

Wait, I have a 73, it plugged right in. I didn’t realize 72’s were different.