Oil pressure sending unit

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PeteG41

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I just now watched the video.
Next thing to do is a compression test. I wouldn't bother with anything else until I completed one. Write the numbers down and post them up for us.
I took a compression tester with me before I bought it, but since it was a "rental" from orielly it kinda kept crapping out on me. I got 149, 150, and 152 on cylinders one through 3, then it was giving me problems. 151 on cylinder 7. The others were all over the map. I would get zero, retest, get 90, retest and get 30.
 

PeteG41

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I wish I knew what color smoke. If it is black you are running too rich. Itnisnoossoble younjabe a ruptured or leaking power valve, which will allow the intake manifold vacuum do suck as much liquid fuel out of the fuel bowl as fast as it can. If you rebuild the carb a new power valve is in the kit.
Other thing can cause a rich mixture also. But I suspect your power valve is causing your grief.
Well it wasn't smoking at all until I blew some carb cleaner into the air bleeds, the inside walls, and the top of the throttle plate. It wasn't blue, just a dark grey. After that it was blowing all kinds of smoke. So I assumed I just loosened up a bunch of crap and it was burning it off. I know the man I bought it from replaced the accelerator pump, but didn't touch anything else. Based on the tags of 2015 I am sure its varnished and needs to come off to either get cleaned/rebuilt or replaced.
That engine is not looking too happy at idle. Looks like it's not running on all 8 cylinders or like it has a massive vacuum leak. Check the EGR valve, it may be stuck open... Adjust the idle mixture screws, it also looks like when one idle mixture screw is all closed up.
No not happy at all. It smoothed out with the carb spray, and the idle came down. I didn't mess with the screws but probably should. Back them all the way in, not firm, 1.5 turns out each and then fine tune? I know a vac gauge would probably be a big help. I thought I capped the vacuum leaks I saw. Those EGR's must be gold plated at $80 but it is what it is!
 

PeteG41

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Just saw the second video, looks much better on the 2nd one.
Yeah definitely better, but not ideal. Its almost like if I blip the throttle, it goes up to about 1200 rmps and is rough, blip it again and it settles at a much smoother 1000. Still high but makes me think something is stuck?
 
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Currently equipped with 351C 4V 4BM, .060 over, roller cam, Sanderson block huggers, -AC
I would not use them.
I used the “Carburetor Shop” out of MS back when my 2V was in the car and it was literally plug and play even with the electric choke.
 

PeteG41

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351c 2v, FMX Transmission. Ordered from Sanderson Ford in Phoenix, 99k original miles.
I would not use them.
I used the “Carburetor Shop” out of MS back when my 2V was in the car and it was literally plug and play even with the electric choke.
I will check it out! I am not too high on Orielly either to be honest. I got a 1bbl from them for my old truck and had to return it for a stuck float, and the one they gave me as a replacement wad some stripped screws for the little air cleaner bridge. I just reached out to a Carb shop here in phx to ask about a rebuild, or possible replacement. I would hate to think there is something wrong with the motor but if there is, I guess I just have to wear it.
 
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1972 Mustang convertible, 351C 2V with FMX (#'s matching)
Currently equipped with 351C 4V 4BM, .060 over, roller cam, Sanderson block huggers, -AC
I will check it out! I am not too high on Orielly either to be honest. I got a 1bbl from them for my old truck and had to return it for a stuck float, and the one they gave me as a replacement wad some stripped screws for the little air cleaner bridge.
My bad on that carb, here is who I used for the 2V.
 

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I took a compression tester with me before I bought it, but since it was a "rental" from orielly it kinda kept crapping out on me. I got 149, 150, and 152 on cylinders one through 3, then it was giving me problems. 151 on cylinder 7. The others were all over the map. I would get zero, retest, get 90, retest and get 30.
You tested it with the carb open and all of the spark plugs out?

I would retest the cyls that you had problems on.
 
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A carb kit should be pretty cheap, and a 2 barrel carb is quite easy to do. Don't be afraid to rebuild it yourself, it really is not that complicated if you take it slow and follow the rebuild instructions. I doubt that kit will be more than $30, and with some time, and carb cleaner you should be able to easily do it. One of the first carbs I did was a Carter Thermoquad from a 1972 Demon 340, I was maybe 17 years old and had no idea what the hell I was doing. Bought an auto parts kits, too it slow, cleaned all passages with carb cleaner, burnt my eyes along the way with the carb cleaner, and it came out fine, just follow the instructions to a T.
 

PeteG41

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You tested it with the carb open and all of the spark plugs out?

I would retest the cyls that you had problems on.
Yessir, all of the plugs were out. They definitely didn't make them easy to get to though, thats for sure. When you say carb open, do you mean the choke or wedging the throttle open?
 

PeteG41

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A carb kit should be pretty cheap, and a 2 barrel carb is quite easy to do. Don't be afraid to rebuild it yourself, it really is not that complicated if you take it slow and follow the rebuild instructions. I doubt that kit will be more than $30, and with some time, and carb cleaner you should be able to easily do it. One of the first carbs I did was a Carter Thermoquad from a 1972 Demon 340, I was maybe 17 years old and had no idea what the hell I was doing. Bought an auto parts kits, too it slow, cleaned all passages with carb cleaner, burnt my eyes along the way with the carb cleaner, and it came out fine, just follow the instructions to a T.
Yep I found one at the local store for $25 or so. I think I am going to tackle it. Worst case I am in the same exact spot that I am currently in. Seeing as I dont have a garage, back patio should be good to clean it and take her inside to assemble. I think I just got overwhelmed with info when I was looking into it. Between float levels and jets, just a little out of my element! I understand the basic principles of it, just lots of little pieces to make sure I put in the correct spot.
 
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I haven't gotten a temp gun yet. Yeah I was looking at oriellys, new carb is about $240 plus the core. Not ideal but it would be more of a plug and play as opposed to rebuilding.
Again I'm no expert on carbs, but before you just go buy whatever you can find at the local store, maybe spend a little time a research which new carb might be the best fit for your car. Summit Racing have some good carbs pretty reasonably priced. You might check out Holley or QuickFuel (same thig really). Personally I'm not a fan of anything Edelbrock, no real reason, but that's just me.
Even if you do buy a new carb, that doesn't mean it will not require some tuning and set up.
Glad you're getting closer to sorting it all out.
 
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You should not be looking at changing jets, just cleaning everything and getting it all back together. I have never done one of those carbs so I do not know exactly what is in there, but you will probably be surprised at how little is actually in there. The one thing to do is try to get a plastic utility pan, big enough for the carb to comfortably sit in. When you remove the top plate and the bottom plate of the carb, the carb may have one or more steel check balls, make sure that you look and see where they are and slowly turn the carb over to let them fall out by gravity and see where they came from, do this over the utility pan so that they do not go off into space and get lost. The instructions should tell you where they go, and you may even get replacements, but it is better to be safe than sorry. The balls may be of different size, and the instructions may not be too clear on this, although you probably cannot get them in the wrong holes as they would not fit. The most critical thing is to set the float height correctly, the instructions should give you a flat height setting, and probably even a small ruler to measure it. Make sure you set the floats at the correct height, and you should be good to go. If you are going to do this with just a couple of cans of carb cleaner, get the plastic tube that comes with the carb cleaner and make sure to inset that tube into every hole and orifice that you see in the carb and flush it if possible from both side of the hole/orifice. Best thing is to get the carb cleaner gallon, with the dip basket to clean all the parts thoroughly, but I have done tons of carbs with just carb cleaner with excellent results. Get some plastic glasses on as the brake cleaner will inevitably splash out of the carb and right into your eyes and it burns like a all hell broke loose.
 

PeteG41

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351c 2v, FMX Transmission. Ordered from Sanderson Ford in Phoenix, 99k original miles.
You should not be looking at changing jets, just cleaning everything and getting it all back together. I have never done one of those carbs so I do not know exactly what is in there, but you will probably be surprised at how little is actually in there. The one thing to do is try to get a plastic utility pan, big enough for the carb to comfortably sit in. When you remove the top plate and the bottom plate of the carb, the carb may have one or more steel check balls, make sure that you look and see where they are and slowly turn the carb over to let them fall out by gravity and see where they came from, do this over the utility pan so that they do not go off into space and get lost. The instructions should tell you where they go, and you may even get replacements, but it is better to be safe than sorry. The balls may be of different size, and the instructions may not be too clear on this, although you probably cannot get them in the wrong holes as they would not fit. The most critical thing is to set the float height correctly, the instructions should give you a flat height setting, and probably even a small ruler to measure it. Make sure you set the floats at the correct height, and you should be good to go. If you are going to do this with just a couple of cans of carb cleaner, get the plastic tube that comes with the carb cleaner and make sure to inset that tube into every hole and orifice that you see in the carb and flush it if possible from both side of the hole/orifice. Best thing is to get the carb cleaner gallon, with the dip basket to clean all the parts thoroughly, but I have done tons of carbs with just carb cleaner with excellent results. Get some plastic glasses on as the brake cleaner will inevitably splash out of the carb and right into your eyes and it burns like a all hell broke loose.
Haha definitely on the same page with the tray part. Was going to go by the local dollar tree for one that I can use. For sure have seen those little metal balls when I was looking into my old carb, so thanks for the reminder on that. +1 on the ruler, now it makes sense why its in the kit. If I can't seem to locate the gallon, I will just send it with the cans and a toothbrush. Got to experience a little bit of the carb spray in the eye trying to flush out those air holes, won't make that mistake again. Of course I remembered to wear them grinding out the window rivets. Us baseball players might be dumb, but we aren't stupid. Thanks for the video!! I am sure I will be watching it step by step after I have everything cleaned up.
 

PeteG41

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Good rebuild video:

Man this video is awesome! Fully convinced I can figure this out. Rebuild kit already ordered, plan is to have it off and soaking by friday night. Before I lightly hit a panic button, I am also going to recheck the timing. I am thinking since it smooths out when I am on the throttle, it might be too retarded. Clean carb and correct timing might be all she needs! Fingers crossed.
 
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When you do the compression test you want to have the choke open and the throttle opened fully.
Good point. I also remove ALL the spark plugs and ground the HT wire. I use a "bump button" connected to the battery and solenoid. (I forget the symbol, but the one closest to the front!!)
 

PeteG41

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351c 2v, FMX Transmission. Ordered from Sanderson Ford in Phoenix, 99k original miles.
Good point. I also remove ALL the spark plugs and ground the HT wire. I use a "bump button" connected to the battery and solenoid. (I forget the symbol, but the one closest to the front!!)
Yeah my pops is flying in on the 13th, he had the 71 mach 1, which is why I love these. Anyways, the goal is to have the carb all cleaned and put back, we are going to do the compression test, timing check, and if she responds well to those, possibly pulling the trigger on a petronix points kit. I am definitely going to snag one of those remote start kits, its been on my list anyways. But as of now I am not going to spend a ton of money on things I don't need yet if the motor needs some attention. The plan is at some point to swap out the intake and carb, but for now I just want her on the road.
 
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1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.
Yeah my pops is flying in on the 13th, he had the 71 mach 1, which is why I love these. Anyways, the goal is to have the carb all cleaned and put back, we are going to do the compression test, timing check, and if she responds well to those, possibly pulling the trigger on a petronix points kit. I am definitely going to snag one of those remote start kits, its been on my list anyways. But as of now I am not going to spend a ton of money on things I don't need yet if the motor needs some attention. The plan is at some point to swap out the intake and carb, but for now I just want her on the road.
Good thoughts.
Things can snow-ball for sure.......... that's why I have a tool chest full of "stuff".
If and when you decide to go Pertronix, post that up as there are thing's you'll need to know before buying. I use Pertronix Ignitor II with matching coil. You may also need timing and distributor modifications to get the best out of your motor.
 

PeteG41

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351c 2v, FMX Transmission. Ordered from Sanderson Ford in Phoenix, 99k original miles.
Good thoughts.
Things can snow-ball for sure.......... that's why I have a tool chest full of "stuff".
If and when you decide to go Pertronix, post that up as there are thing's you'll need to know before buying. I use Pertronix Ignitor II with matching coil. You may also need timing and distributor modifications to get the best out of your motor.
Oh ok I am glad you mentioned it, I wasn't aware. I was just looking at the system that works for my motor. What all should I be looking out for? I will be doing the coil as well, figured it didn't make sense to just replace one component.
 
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