OK - so now what do I do?

[Mister 4x4]

I'd go with a brass plug if you can.

Not a bad idea - thanks!

 

[TheJ]

I'd go with a brass plug if you can.

+1, aluminum and steel like to fuse together, ask me how I know. :dodgy:

 

[JimBrown55]

Just to chime in, my 73 2V was set up the same as J's:

Doc

Resurrection post.....

That's a great picture for me, because it shows the wire connected to the sensor. In the process of replacing the intake and carb, I lost the tag I had on the wire that connects to it. I seem to remember it having a 90 slip on type connector, but not finding that. So now, I only "think" I know which wire it is. While I wait for some hand-holding, I'll go ground out the wire I think it is and have the wife watch the light. lol

As it is now, I have an intermittently blinking temperature idiot light, which at the very least shows me the wire is probably shorting to ground at times as I'm driving around. Unlikely I'm overheating with a new water pump and thermostat.

Thanks, anybody!

 

[1973grandeklar]

As I found out on my 1972 build, the water sensor is for a gauge and not the idiot light. I plugged in the correct wire and the temp light would be off at start up. Then as the engine warmed up the light would slowly brighten up. So check to make sure you have the right sensor!

 

[Mister 4x4]

Wow - talk about "Throw Back Thursday!"

It's tough to see, but I did eventually manage to get it figured out.

 

[JimBrown55]

So, it does come off the harness that feeds the coil, right? Mom is sleeping in, today, my daughter won't come outside in the AZ heat, and I haven't gotten around to ground testing it yet. lol

 

[rpmcarter]

she looks good sitting in the bay 4by

 

[Mister 4x4]

So, it does come off the harness that feeds the coil, right? Mom is sleeping in, today, my daughter won't come outside in the AZ heat, and I haven't gotten around to ground testing it yet. lol

I can't answer that for sure - I went with a Duraspark conversion kit from NPD - so my coil is powered from a different harness altogether... re-routed and wired A LOT differently than stock.

The stock harness that has the power lead for the electric choke (on the passenger side of the engine) is the same harness that plugs into the temp sensor... if that's any help.

 

[JimBrown55]

It is, that's the one that has the wire I was thinking was the right one, and I don't have the IDIOT light blinking at me to remind me of that every few seconds. I worry enough without unnecessary visual inputs. lol

 

[Steve73QMach1]

OK Guys - I don't know that this is the right place to post this, so feel free to move it if necessary.

I was gawkin' at my engine this afternoon after I got the intake nailed down and noticed, "I have what appears to be 3 water passages." (circled below)

So, my question is: What do I do now? Do I block off the obvious extra port in the "late model" water pump (I'm thinkin' 351M)? Or just go get another [correct] water pump (with a single heater hose outlet/inlet)?

I wish there was a 'bang head against the wall' emoticon, but for now I'll just live with these: :shrug2: :huh: rofl

Eric - a little off topic here but where did you get your vibration damper? I like the looks of the one you have on your engine. I am looking for a new one as I found out that the one on my engine is incorrect

 

[Mister 4x4]

Eric - a little off topic here but where did you get your vibration damper? I like the looks of the one you have on your engine. I am looking for a new one as I found out that the one on my engine is incorrect

Got mine from O'Reilly Auto Parts. $90-ish for a 351C-2V

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PPI0/PB1082N/02316.oap?year=1971&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139382&ck=Search_02316_5139382_1613&pt=02316&ppt=C0332

It's all black, but I silver Sharpie'd the marks and numbers... then wiped it off before it dried - which is why the timing marks look so cool.

Hope that helps!

 

[Steve73QMach1]

Eric - a little off topic here but where did you get your vibration damper? I like the looks of the one you have on your engine. I am looking for a new one as I found out that the one on my engine is incorrect

Got mine from O'Reilly Auto Parts. $90-ish for a 351C-2V

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PPI0/PB1082N/02316.oap?year=1971&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139382&ck=Search_02316_5139382_1613&pt=02316&ppt=C0332

It's all black, but I silver Sharpie'd the marks and numbers... then wiped it off before it dried - which is why the timing marks look so cool.

Hope that helps!

Hey - that's a great idea. I have to get a new one for my car and I will do the same thing - it does look cool - thanks for the tip!