One-piece Valves

[73vertproject]

I stopped by the engine builders shop a few minutes ago to chat about swapping out the new pumpkin which is due to arrive this afternoon.

The old guy wasn't there, but the young guy was. When I mentioned that I needed to pull the heads and replace the stock valves with one-piece valves, he looked at me kinda funny and said he'd never hear of anything but one-piece valves. He asked me about it and I told him that several of our members had warned me that I should switch to one-piece valves, and probably should have done it when I was rebuilding the Cleveland. He said he hadn't heard of such a thing.

So, next time I see him how do I describe it to him? He's only about 25 years old, so he's not an expert on our engines by any means. He's a good kid - just hadn't heard of anything other than one-piece valves.


OK, I found some great information here: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-ford-techboard/460762-1-piece-vs-2-piece-valves.html

And some gruesome pics here: http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/wreck.html

and here: http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/thread/1141697214/destroyed+73+351cj

After looking at those pics, I may even tow my 'vert down to the shop and have the heads pulled and valves replaced. Scared to fire her up and drop part of a valve into a cylinder... :s

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I stopped by the engine builders shop a few minutes ago to chat about swapping out the new pumpkin which is due to arrive this afternoon.

The old guy wasn't there, but the young guy was. When I mentioned that I needed to pull the heads and replace the stock valves with one-piece valves, he looked at me kinda funny and said he'd never hear of anything but one-piece valves. He asked me about it and I told him that several of our members had warned me that I should switch to one-piece valves, and probably should have done it when I was rebuilding the Cleveland. He said he hadn't heard of such a thing.

So, next time I see him how do I describe it to him? He's only about 25 years old, so he's not an expert on our engines by any means. He's a good kid - just hadn't heard of anything other than one-piece valves.


OK, I found some great information here: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-ford-techboard/460762-1-piece-vs-2-piece-valves.html

And some gruesome pics here: http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/wreck.html

and here: http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/thread/1141697214/destroyed+73+351cj

After looking at those pics, I may even tow my 'vert down to the shop and have the heads pulled and valves replaced. Scared to fire her up and drop part of a valve into a cylinder... :s

I see you answered your own question.

Scary huh?

 

[73vertproject]

Yep. Going online right now to buy me a nice set of one-piece valves. Anyone got a recommendation for 2V heads?

 

[Mister 4x4]

I think the biggest question is: how bad were they hammering their engines when the valves grenaded?

 

[73vertproject]

In one of the write-ups, the guy said he was flooring it and backing off and then flooring it again (to impress his passenger) while travelling about 120mph. So it didn't happen on the way to church or anything, that's for sure.... :angel:


I also realize that I could have looked closer to home at jorgem's post from last year for good info:

"If you dont have them already, get yourself a new set of SS one piece valves. This is the number one failure of stock cleveland engines, especially when bigger cams and stiffer springs are added to them.

The originals are 2 piece construction with the heads welded on the stem and the heads like to seperate."

Now I know what to say to the kid.

 

[Mister 4x4]

That's what I'm saying. I can't remember ever reading a story or hearing about someone floating a valve, let alone breaking one off, just casually driving their car to the gas station or other 'normal' driving events.

So maybe rather than towing, you could 'cruise' down to the mechanic if you're really that concerned.

 

[73vertproject]

That's what I'm saying. I can't remember ever reading a story or hearing about someone floating a valve, let alone breaking one off, just casually driving their car to the gas station or other 'normal' driving events.

So maybe rather than towing, you could 'cruise' down to the mechanic if you're really that concerned.

Ya, I'll probably just drive it over. No guarantees that I'll get 'er above 20 mph tho. :-/

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351C-2V-SS-VALVES-351-C-STAINLESS-VALVES-351-CLEVELAND-2-041-1-655-351C-2V-/310405894128?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4845a20ff0&vxp=mtr

they have both 4v sets and 2V sets quality is on par with the major valve manufacturers and price is very reasonable.

I used their 4V valves and both my head builder and I were well pleased with the quality

 

[73vertproject]

Rock on, Jeff! Thanks for the link and input!

 

[Tnfastbk]

I like MAnley valves

http://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/11873-1/10002/-1

 

[73vertproject]

I like MAnley valves

http://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/11873-1/10002/-1

Thanks for the link, Roy. I've heard good things about Manley valves. I'm now thinking about the many directions I can take (I pray to gawd my wife doesn't read this), including swapping to to 4V heads (quench, closed, open, etc, even Aussie (OK, now I know I had a couple of cold ones) and seeing if it is even possible for intelligent people to bolt 4V heads onto a 2V block.

I'll see what the muse has to say while I sleep, and check back in the AM. Thanks for the link and input, Roy!

 

[Tnfastbk]

I like MAnley valves

http://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/11873-1/10002/-1

Thanks for the link, Roy. I've heard good things about Manley valves. I'm now thinking about the many directions I can take (I pray to gawd my wife doesn't read this), including swapping to to 4V heads (quench, closed, open, etc, even Aussie (OK, now I know I had a couple of cold ones) and seeing if it is even possible for intelligent people to bolt 4V heads onto a 2V block.

I'll see what the muse has to say while I sleep, and check back in the AM. Thanks for the link and input, Roy!

2v and 4v blocks are the same

 

[73vertproject]

Well, then, it's official. I'm in deep doodoo. :s

 

[JimNiki]

just need 4v exhaust manifold or headers to match.

 

[marks73]

I like MAnley valves

http://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/11873-1/10002/-1

Excellent choice!

 

[73vertproject]

just need 4v exhaust manifold or headers to match.

Pretty sure you're spot on with that, Jim, 'cause I thought I saw a thread where the Edelbrock Performer 2750 intake would work with both 2v and 4V heads.. I'm screwed, I think. Gotta wait until tomorrow and rethink this whole thing.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Nothing wrong with Manley valves at all. Or Ferra for that matter.

If you run headers the Hookers are nice and the base ones fit beautifully.

Intake wise the Edelbrock you mention is not considered to be as good a manifold as some other options.

The best was the Holley Strip Dominator, which is not in current production. There is also a nice manifold by Blue Thunder, but I think the costs are pretty high. You can still find an Edelbrock Torker single plane intake which works very well. Lots of times they are on Ebay.

All that being said, what are you going to do with your cam? If you are going to retain a mild cam, then do yourself a favor and keep your current heads, or go to an aluminum closed chamber 3V style head that will give you a compression bump, and freer flow without the giant ports of the 4V heads. You could get aluminum for about a grand already complete plus another 600 for headers and a proper intake and 400 for an upgrade to the carb.

If you aren't willing to spend that kind of money, then I think the current 2V heads with fresh valves and a mild pocket porting would serve you better.

A set of 4V heads build great power from 3800 rpm up, but it really is a significantly different driving experience to me. If you like to drive your car harder than average, you'll love a properly built 4V engine, but it is more than just heads.

If you need stock 4V exhaust manifolds let me know, I'll give you a set for the cost of shipping. one has a repaired crack, but it did not leak on my car when I removed it.

 

[JimNiki]

also note if you have ram air or are thinking of installing it down the track, you will have to choose a manifold wisely due to height limitations. I'm still running my edelbrock performer 351 2V mated to the Holley 750 for this reason.

 

[jorgem2]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351C-2V-SS-VALVES-351-C-STAINLESS-VALVES-351-CLEVELAND-2-041-1-655-351C-2V-/310405894128?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4845a20ff0&vxp=mtr

they have both 4v sets and 2V sets quality is on par with the major valve manufacturers and price is very reasonable.

I used their 4V valves and both my head builder and I were well pleased with the quality

I used these on my first 351c and they were very high quality. Half price of manleys, dont forget you have to change the locks and retainers to single groove style as well.