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Coat em with epoxy resin and glue them down with a thickened mixture of the same and call it a day-should last 20 years or more. Will also add some heat and noise insulation and a bit of buoyancy in the event of a water landing.

Smart idea, it will seriously save you from some abrasions.

Now that I am mostly done being a smart ass for the next few minutes-are your tetanus shots up to date? You are going to get scratched and cut and if they aren't it would be a good idea to take care of that.

 
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New tires are in. Went with Cooper Cobra 225/70/14's. Went back and forth between that size and 235/60/14. Couldn't pass up the price on these ones though; $60 each. My little helper buddy is so excited. He loves the cobras on the sidewalls of the no letter sides. "Daddy, these tires are mean! They have angry snakes on them!" lol

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I have a 73 fastback I'm taking the roof off but looking at your pics of the rear X brace and all that looks like those need to be replaced the ones in the shell I just purchased are in very nice shape let me know if you want better pictures and if there's anything else you may need

 
New tires are in. Went with Cooper Cobra 225/70/14's. Went back and forth between that size and 235/60/14. Couldn't pass up the price on these ones though; $60 each. My little helper buddy is so excited. He loves the cobras on the sidewalls of the no letter sides. "Daddy, these tires are mean! They have angry snakes on them!" lol
Where did you get that deal? I need to get some put on a set of 73 aluminum mags.

David

 
New tires are in. Went with Cooper Cobra 225/70/14's. Went back and forth between that size and 235/60/14. Couldn't pass up the price on these ones though; $60 each. My little helper buddy is so excited. He loves the cobras on the sidewalls of the no letter sides. "Daddy, these tires are mean! They have angry snakes on them!" lol
Where did you get that deal? I need to get some put on a set of 73 aluminum mags.

David
Discount Tire Direct in Columbus, Ohio.

 
Coat em with epoxy resin and glue them down with a thickened mixture of the same and call it a day-should last 20 years or more. Will also add some heat and noise insulation and a bit of buoyancy in the event of a water landing.

Smart idea, it will seriously save you from some abrasions.

Now that I am mostly done being a smart ass for the next few minutes-are your tetanus shots up to date? You are going to get scratched and cut and if they aren't it would be a good idea to take care of that.
Actually thinking of cutting the subframe off and lag bolting some 4x4 posts under their for added buoyancy. Maybe even cutting out a couple of blocks of oak for torque boxes. :)

Thanks for the reminder on the tetanus shot. I'd been thinking about that. After reading your comment I counted back when the last time I got shots on active duty in the Army was 1998 and then again in the Air Force Reserves was 2001. Needless to say I marched myself down to Rite Aid and am now current.



I have a 73 fastback I'm taking the roof off but looking at your pics of the rear X brace and all that looks like those need to be replaced the ones in the shell I just purchased are in very nice shape let me know if you want better pictures and if there's anything else you may need
I might be good. Over the summer I got the back end of the interior metal from a 73 fastback. Which pieces exactly are you questioning? I had a lot of mess going on inside when those pictures were taken.

 
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New tires are in. Went with Cooper Cobra 225/70/14's. Went back and forth between that size and 235/60/14. Couldn't pass up the price on these ones though; $60 each. My little helper buddy is so excited. He loves the cobras on the sidewalls of the no letter sides. "Daddy, these tires are mean! They have angry snakes on them!" lol
Where did you get that deal? I need to get some put on a set of 73 aluminum mags.

David
Discount Tire Direct in Columbus, Ohio.
Ok we have one local that is where I get my truck tires. They seem to do a much better job than others. They actually use a torque wrench when doing the final torque on the lugs.

David



Coat em with epoxy resin and glue them down with a thickened mixture of the same and call it a day-should last 20 years or more. Will also add some heat and noise insulation and a bit of buoyancy in the event of a water landing.

Smart idea, it will seriously save you from some abrasions.

Now that I am mostly done being a smart ass for the next few minutes-are your tetanus shots up to date? You are going to get scratched and cut and if they aren't it would be a good idea to take care of that.
Actually thinking of cutting the subframe off and lag bolting some 4x4 posts under their for added buoyancy. Maybe even cutting out a couple of blocks of oak for torque boxes. :)

Thanks for the reminder on the tetanus shot. I'd been thinking about that. After reading your comment I counted back when the last time I got shots on active duty in the Army was 1998 and then again in the Air Force Reserves was 2001. Needless to say I marched myself down to Rite Aid and am now current.



I have a 73 fastback I'm taking the roof off but looking at your pics of the rear X brace and all that looks like those need to be replaced the ones in the shell I just purchased are in very nice shape let me know if you want better pictures and if there's anything else you may need
I might be good. Over the summer I got the back end of the interior metal from a 73 fastback. Which pieces exactly are you questioning? I had a lot of mess going on inside when those pictures were taken.
The tetanus shot is nothing to be taken lightly. When I went to China they updated mine and told me that I could not do again with my age. When I was maybe 20 I lost a knife fight with myself and really cut a thumb to the bone, long story. But anyway my gal friend took me to emergency room to get stitched up so it didn't fall off. The nurse came in and gave me a tetanus shot in the hip but way up near my belt line. The next morning I woke up and was hurting in every joint in my body. I could not bend my arms or legs all joints, even fingers, were locked up. Lucky for me I was in the first area to get touch tone phones. I struggled and knocked the phone off the hook and punched in my dad's number. He rushed over and took me to our family Dr.. I could hardly move he had to almost carry me to car. The Dr. said that the nurse gave the shot too high up and did not absorb correctly into my system and I got tetanus from the shot. He gave me some pills two tiny ones of different colors and I got ok in just one day. That was scary. As a kid I would run around barefooted all the time and stuck rusty nails in my foot several times. Back then mom would put a piece of bacon on the hole and wrap it up said the curing stuff in the bacon pulled all the bad stuff out, lol. Never had a tetanus until I cut my thumb. Believe you me you don't want to take a chance. I wear Kevlar sleeves and gloves when working on my old cars now. They use to call it lock jaw and it did even lock up your jaw movement, scary for sure.

David

 
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Got the wheels cleaned up the best I could. The ones in that where in the trunk when I picked up our 'stang look near brand new. The ones that were on the back I was able to clean up to about 90% perfect. They look better than before and someday I'll either upgrade to 15 or 16" or strip these completely and have them chromed or I'll polish themselves. Loving having the Cooper Cobra Radial GT's all around. The 225/70/14's look awesome.

I cracked the retaining ring on the back of one of my center caps. I have a 2" hub opening. I attempted to weld the ring back knowing that the metal was too thin. As I thought I didn't work. Here is what I used to fix it though. I pressed the cracked edges back in to place, put a bead of solder on the crack, and then along the sides for about 1/8". It's been holding on now with no problems for about 50 miles of city driving.

Drove down to our local rod and custom shop in Weirton today. They were overall impressed with the condition of the project I've taken on. Subframe and boxes are in great shape. Floor pans are a must. We talked and what I would save in just putting in new foot areas of the floor, I'll waste my cash on the labor hours. After many questions back and forth between the two of us we came up with the plan to do a full one piece floor pan this summer.

Then the plan is to get the new exhaust on there. Next summer we'll take the exterior back down to bare metal, see what we're working with, get it all fixed up, primed and painted. We both want to get the exterior sealed back up to stop the rust. We only have two places of concern. The major one is behind the driver's side quarter window. The other is behind the wheel on the rear quarter panel on the driver's side.

We then agreed that during that process we're atleast going with a complete new or good condition used trunk lid. The back side along the lock has too many rust holes that if it flexed at all any body work done would crack.

Meanwhile later this week it's time for a spring tune up: oil change (I use Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic 20W-50), new Motorcraft spark plugs, going to blast the valve covers, oil pan, transmission pan, and rear diff cover, paint them, new gaskets, and fluids. While the valve covers are off will be doing a checkup on the top side of the valves.

Will get some pictures on here later.

 
Hello, glad to see your saving another classic, looks like you have a good plan in place. I see your from Weirton. I'm not to far from you (New Martinsville) my wife has family there and originally from Newell, you can check out my build on here PENNYS Q CODE....we hope to have ours done soon.

congrats on your project and good luck.

Joe

 
Hello, glad to see your saving another classic, looks like you have a good plan in place. I see your from Weirton. I'm not to far from you (New Martinsville) my wife has family there and originally from Newell, you can check out my build on here PENNYS Q CODE....we hope to have ours done soon.

congrats on your project and good luck.

Joe
Thanks and good luck with your project too. I'm originally from Chester. My parents live up on Newell Heights. We moved back here from Colorado after my step-dad's accident in 2012. He was parking his motorcycle down at the Newell Dinner one morning before sunrise. Then a texting drive drifted into him. SO DON'T TEXT AND DRIVE! IT CAN WAIT! They have a cabin down your way so I'm quite familiar with the area. Atleast the Wal-Mart. From New Martinsville you take 7 to Wileyville and then head north a few miles. I'll be sure to check out your project and thanks for checking out mine.

 
New seat. Got this to get around since when I rescued this Mustang it had 1.5 good front seat. I'm being really loose on that 0.5 was a good seat. Regardless I like these. The height adjuster bracket wouldn't clear the front of the seat riser. So I initially had to use the bottom hole (highest setting). Being 6'2" it wasn't going to work.

Took them to the upper level of the garage and got out the 4 1/2" angle grinder. Cut off the bottom two holes and good to go. The seat tracks on that hole have to mount to the left or the right side of the bracket. I offset it to be more toward the door. I like it but I think I'm going to try the holes closer to the transmission tunnel. Then see which I like better.

After this piece though now it's time to get serious about get her all sanded down, body work as needed, and getting the metal all sealed up. I still have to finish pulling the last 10% of the dash out too before that.

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Got the engine gauges, the climate control levers, and all the trim off the center of the dash. Discounted all the dash frame, and removed all the switches but the wiper switch. The tabs on the back of the speedo wiring harness and the speedo cable are broken off. It also appears the wiper switch knob tab is broken off as well. So I'm struggling to get my speedo/tach and the wiper switch out to remove the dash frame.

 
Today was the day! After 3, maybe 4, rounds I have won the battle of dashboard removal. Still have a few piece to remove. The victory is that it is out of the car. Have to get the garage reorganized and then the heater, wiring, and steering column are to follow. Steering column will sit where it is for awhile though. Have to drive down the street soon to do some interior welding.

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...and does anyone have any idea what this wire setup goes to? I haven't really looked very hard to see what is missing this or just to simply web search or parts manual the numbers. For the most part though everything seemed to be plugged and installed on the back of the dash. The purple tag reads:

0178

15A006-AA

C. M.

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...and does anyone have any idea what this wire setup goes to? I haven't really looked very hard to see what is missing this or just to simply web search or parts manual the numbers. For the most part though everything seemed to be plugged and installed on the back of the dash. The purple tag reads:

0178

15A006-AA

C. M.
Found it in the manual. Clock wiring harness. I'll have to go back and see what was still hooked up to the clock on my center console. This maybe be an extra.



are those light bulbs in the one end?
Those are bulbs. Found it in the parts manual. See above. She still starts. Just drove back into the garage after pulling the dash out. Mother Nature has better lighting than my garage does.

 
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