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That's good for me for now. I'm curious now if that is correct and it shouldn't run with the gauges out. You should see the bypasses I'm trying to sort out under the hood. She runs and runs well but just about everything under there is setup to make it run.

 
With factory wiring it will not run with the tach unhooked as the power runs through the tach. A jumper plug can be made on the harness side. If an aftermarket tach was run, then usually it will not be powered this way.

Nice progress on your car

 
Valve covers are done. I like the new Ford engine blue vs the old. Got the instrument cluster apart. Everything always worked but the trip. Got that working after some cleaning. I've got one speedo light and one fuel light that work. Bulbs look good. Going to try to steel wool the connects first before spending the $70 for a new circuit. All new LEDS will go in except for the blinkers. I've read too many problem with LEDS there unless someone has some advice on why there is a problem with LED blinker lights. Then the housing will get painted white to further aid in nightime illumination.

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Just a word of caution for those other members that might be doing this. I also took the cluster apart, polished the lens and was wiping the face of the speedo and tach down with some Windex. It removed the lettering on the trip meter and the brake warning light, sucks. You cannot just change them them are riveted in place. So I just put it all back together, just a driver. But for someone trying to make a show winner be careful when cleaning the instrument faces.

 
So this happened... A slight delay on rebuilding my insteument cluster. There was a mouse nest above the tach. Over the decades the urine corroded the bolt that goes in this hole. The head snapped off removing the tach. Vise grips, files, drills, and extractors later proved to do nothing. The bolt was too far gone. So some grinding and it's out. This metal rod is the exact diameter as the hole minus the threads. JB Weld, sand and file to orignal shape, remove the rod, and back in business.
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Word to the wise on the above post. I've learned from experience. If you ever have to do this, dip the rod or piece you need to remove after curing in melted candle wax, bees wax, etc. This way it comes out vs. becoming the latest addition to what you were trying to fix.

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Thanks!

What do you all think? Leave black with a silver ring or paint them whit too?

The faces of the instruments will still be black. I think it will make for a nice transition to leave then alone. Then another part of me thinks it would look sharp to paint them white.
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From Left to Right: Driver Side Front to Back and then Passenger Side Back to Front.

Compression Test Next.

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Hopefully I'll get to my compression test done on Monday. Then new plugs. New full floor pan should be here by the end of the week. I'm giving myself until the middle of June to get that done.

Shouldn't effect my already slow progress but duty has called once again.

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Circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster repaired and all new LEDS from www.superbrightleds.com.

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Compression Test starting with driver front & then back, and then passenger front & then back. Engine was cold. Carb wide open.

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Pulled it out of the garage at home today and drove across town to the garage with the welding equipment. Even got the baby girl to go for a ride finally. She doesn't care for the loud engine and because it still looks old is afraid it's going to break. Snapped a few photos. Still looks the same on the outside but the cleaned up, matching wheels and new tires look great!

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Feels great to be over that hump I bet. Looks good.

 
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