Parking Brake Switch

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Found the switch in the box where it should be....
Does anyone know how is this switch supposed to attach to the stock parking brake lever?
No idea, but when you find out, I'm all ears and eyes.
Don C says the parking brake brackets are all the same, Read back his reply.
On mine, I was simply going to find the hot side on the purple/ white wire, splice into that, then splice the other wire to the idiot light side and hope it works. Hope so anyway, I don't want to get into relays, harness mods etc., just keep it simple.
 
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No idea, but when you find out, I'm all ears and eyes.
Don C says the parking brake brackets are all the same, Read back his reply.
On mine, I was simply going to find the hot side on the purple/ white wire, splice into that, then splice the other wire to the idiot light side and hope it works. Hope so anyway, I don't want to get into relays, harness mods etc., just keep it simple.
@Don C , I understand the switch goes in the bracket but I can't find where. Do you or someone else would have a picture of how the switch is installed on the factory bracket?
 
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Hey Tony,
The illustration shows the switch location held in place by a #10-24 x 1" screw. The second hole is for the locator/anti-rotation stud. The park brake pedal assembly and switch is the same for all ‘71-73s. For those looking for a switch; I know reasonable prices is now just a word in the dictionary, but since many vendors are showing no stock on this switch, it is still available from Ford. The Ford part# is F2UZ-15A851-A @$38.50 (slightly higher than NPD, OMS, RockAuto etc.) They can also be found on E-Bay when searching by the Ford #. :)
 

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Hey Tony,
The illustration shows the switch location held in place by a #10-24 x 1" screw. The second hole is for the locator/anti-rotation stud. The park brake pedal assembly and switch is the same for all ‘71-73s. For those looking for a switch; I know reasonable prices is now just a word in the dictionary, but since many vendors are showing no stock on this switch, it is still available from Ford. The Ford part# is F2UZ-15A851-A @$38.50 (slightly higher than NPD, OMS, RockAuto etc.) They can also be found on E-Bay when searching by the Ford #. :)
Thank you for such a detailed diagram.
 
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Hey Tony,
The illustration shows the switch location held in place by a #10-24 x 1" screw. The second hole is for the locator/anti-rotation stud. The park brake pedal assembly and switch is the same for all ‘71-73s. For those looking for a switch; I know reasonable prices is now just a word in the dictionary, but since many vendors are showing no stock on this switch, it is still available from Ford. The Ford part# is F2UZ-15A851-A @$38.50 (slightly higher than NPD, OMS, RockAuto etc.) They can also be found on E-Bay when searching by the Ford #. :)
I went under the dash and saw the elusive holes. They are way up there. That's probably why I never saw them and put the project in the back burner a few years back. I think I can install it but I will have to get my hands up there and work blind. Per the picture, the threaded hole does not appear to have a thread.

20220712_001414.jpg
 
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I went under the dash and saw the elusive holes. They are way up there. That's probably why I never saw them and put the project in the back burner a few years back. I think I can install it but I will have to get my hands up there and work blind. Per the picture, the threaded hole does not appear to have a thread.

View attachment 65622
Well, this looks like it's going to suck. Starting to wonder if it's worth the effort.
Why the F didn't Ford just put the switch and warning light on ALL cars with this dumb ass parking brake?
Thanks for the update and pic. It's possible we may have to pull the brake/bracket out to do the job where it can be seen.
 
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Animal Lawyer

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Even though a relay doesn't draw much current the current draw will draw the battery down enough in a week or so and it won't provide enough current to the starter for a seldom driven vehicle.
If you put the relay and switch downstream of the ignition switch that will not be a problem. As you would only want the light and the circuit working when the key was turned, when the car is off there would by NO current draw.
 
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71Fast (Ken) let me know that there is an error on stanglover2.pdf. He has corrected it in the pdf below. It may or may not affect what we are trying to do, but I really appreciate him helping out with his knowledge.
 

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Last night I tried to get up there with a tap and broke the tap inside the hole. Since I still have the driver's side vent it is very difficult to get to it. Now I have no option than to remove the vent and the parking brake assembly to remove the broken tap and then tap the threads. I tried to shortcut but it didn't work. I guess this project will be tabled until the winter.
 
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Tony, sorry to hear you had a problem with an already busy part of the under-dash area. Years ago, when I was.....younger, you could blindfold me, and I could work on anything under my dashboard. Now I don't believe I could do any of those same things even if the dashboard was out of the car and sitting in front of me on a workbench!
The 10-24 X 1" screw mentioned earlier is a Hex washer head self-tapping screw. Ford discontinued these screws in '79, but they should be an easy find at your local hardware store. If I remember correctly, Ford's new park brake controls were not threaded where the screw that retains the switch goes in.
I hope things go better when you decide to have a go at this again!
 

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Joined
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Tony, sorry to hear you had a problem with an already busy part of the under-dash area. Years ago, when I was.....younger, you could blindfold me, and I could work on anything under my dashboard. Now I don't believe I could do any of those same things even if the dashboard was out of the car and sitting in front of me on a workbench!
The 10-24 X 1" screw mentioned earlier is a Hex washer head self-tapping screw. Ford discontinued these screws in '79, but they should be an easy find at your local hardware store. If I remember correctly, Ford's new park brake controls were not threaded where the screw that retains the switch goes in.
I hope things go better when you decide to have a go at this again!
Thanks. Good information to have known. I thought it needed to be tapped. I dont think i can get the broken tap without removing the bracket.
 
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Last night I tried to get up there with a tap and broke the tap inside the hole. Since I still have the driver's side vent it is very difficult to get to it. Now I have no option than to remove the vent and the parking brake assembly to remove the broken tap and then tap the threads. I tried to shortcut but it didn't work. I guess this project will be tabled until the winter.
Well, that really sucks Tony. I guess Ford only considered it worth the expense to tap that hole IF the switch was optioned.
Thanks for the heads up though, Now I know I'm not in a rush to fix this minor issue, which is brain failure mostly! Maybe we should just hang a flag or something over the steering wheel to remind us the p/brake is on. Now, that's a thought!!
 
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Tony, sorry to hear you had a problem with an already busy part of the under-dash area. Years ago, when I was.....younger, you could blindfold me, and I could work on anything under my dashboard. Now I don't believe I could do any of those same things even if the dashboard was out of the car and sitting in front of me on a workbench!
The 10-24 X 1" screw mentioned earlier is a Hex washer head self-tapping screw. Ford discontinued these screws in '79, but they should be an easy find at your local hardware store. If I remember correctly, Ford's new park brake controls were not threaded where the screw that retains the switch goes in.
I hope things go better when you decide to have a go at this again!
Good thought to use a self tapper. 10-24 is course thread anyway so as long as the metal isn't too thick, a self-tapping screw will work just fine.
 
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