picking a motor

[Nick1973]

to start off I just wanna go ahead and say that what im asking about is a ways off ive still got plenty of rust in my way right now

but what motor should I run in this car? I'm looking for something that's going to sound mean and deep be reliable (reliability is a big one) but not be bore to drive and get half@ssed mileage like 10-12 id be happy (im getting around 8 with the 429/c6 and 3.73s) Im thinking a 302 would lighten things up and sound good but I don't know if ill be able to make the power I want without having to really spend a lot of cash on it, this is a ways off but id realllylike some direction and yall haven't steered me wrong yet

 

[Kit Sullivan]

A 351 windsor can be inexpensively built to produce a cheap and reliable 350-400 horses, with plenty of durability. It will fit easily, is light enough so you get decent handling and will return 15+ mpg in normal driving. And the right exhaust will make it sound deep and menacing.

Of course, a 351 windsor is not original but you did not say that was a concern.

 

[captthundarr]

We put a "turn key" 5.0 HO roller crate motor in Amys 71 conv. Enough power to make it fun, milage is good and with 40 series flowmasters it sounds, according to Amy, Badazz. Got less than 5 grand in the motor package.

 

[c9zx]

What year/kind of 429 is it? Is it stock? Is it well tuned? Mileage is greatly affected by how the loud pedal is used. Chuck

 

[cazsper]

Since you don't have the small block, building a 351w is relatively close to building a mild stroker (393,408). I went the 393w route for my '68. Makes plenty of power and yet it's "daily driver" streetable.

 

[Finmach]

What year/kind of 429 is it? Is it stock? Is it well tuned? Mileage is greatly affected by how the loud pedal is used. Chuck

x 2

IMHO your current combo would be the cheapest way to proceed since you allready have it. Few basic things I would check & do.

- lower the rear gear ratio from 3.73 to 3.00 - 3.25

- check which timing chain&set your engine has, it should have '68-'71 timing chain whetever yearmodel the engine is, the '72 - newer has a 8 degree built in retard which really makes the engine slug = consume gas.

- Change the powerrobbing C6 to 429/460 model C4 or use some extra dollars and get a Toploader or a overdrive manual or overdrive automatic.

One big question?

- does your camshaft match to the compression ratio/intake/stall speed/rear gears?

If you would share more information the guys here would be able to give you more specific hints. These would be for the starters, anyway good to have people building big ponies.

 

[Luke]

Keep the 429 put the money you are going to spend on a engine into a box with overdrive

 

[droptop73]

It really depends on what the ultimate goal for the car is. If handling is a goal you'll want to reduce the front end weight, foing the 5.0 route would be a big plus in front end weight. If drivability is the issue any engine can work with a good tune and maybe aftermarket fuel injection. Any engine can sound mean with the right cam and exhaust. The key to the best performance is matching the parts to suit what your goal is. If an impressive underhood view is the goal it's hard to beat a 429/460 or a Cleveland for a way cool lump! X2 on the overdrive trans... the more pedals the better.

For handling a light engine will provide the best balance and get you toward 50-50 weight bias. A fuel injected engine will provide the best balance of power, reliability and efficiency. My plan is an injected 5.0 with a decent cam and good exhaust. If that's not enough power... maybe a turbo is the answer.

 

[Mesozoic]

I have an injected and supercharged 302 based on a Dart Iron Eagle block generating over 700 hp/600 ft-lbs of torque at the crank, still gets 30 mpg on the highway cruising. For less money a late model roller 302 block, say something out of a late model Ford Explorer, is hard to beat since it even comes with upgraded heads and EDIS8 crank trigger ignition. Swap a healthy cam in it, get some decent exhaust, and you're off!