Please help with cost assesment

[ash0468]

I have a 72 Mach 1 mustang with numbers matching block but it needs a complete rebuild. I’m debating doing that vs a rebuild performance that a ship is offering with the following details. Seller asking 3000k for the replacement one. What do you guys think? Appreciate the input. Looking to just have a simple street car. Stock engine is completely stock and not been used for 15 years. Fires up but splutters and smokes .rebuilt one was just redone by machine shop.

Fresh build 351 Cleveland. .030 over

Edelbrock dual plane intake

Weiand high flow water pump

Speed pro hyperutetic pistons

Shot peened rods with arp rod bolts

Balanced rotating assembly with both automatic and manual flywheel

Erson roller tip rockers

Ferrea stainless valves

Bronze guides

Comp cams guide plates

Comp cams .585 lift cam grind number

9 keyway timing set

Anti bleed off lifters

3/8 hardened pushrods

Kevco rear sump oil pan(foxbody)

Arp head bolts

Arp intake bolts

Comes with Lakewood scatter shield, HEI distributor, and two Holley high flow mechanical fuel pumps

 

[Don C]

I don't have a clue how much the shop wants for the rebuilt engine, 3000k is 3 million. Things like saying a 9 key way timing set, shot peened rods, and anti bleed off lifters tells me nothing, what are the brand names of them.

Cam lift doesn't mean much without knowing what the durations, lobe separation and centerline angles are, as well as the brand and cam grind part number.

I would expect roller lifters on a build like this???

For the most part it seems like a well built engine, but some important details are missing, like what the actual cost is.

You would have to replace the oil pan and oil pickup.

By HEI distributor I assume you're talking about the big ugly one based on GM distributors, wouldn't be my choice.

 

[Hemikiller]

$3k buys a lot of parts to get your number matching engine back to good running condition, assuming there is actually anything wrong with it in the first place.

I would do some basic diagnostic work to determine the health of your engine. A compression test and vacuum gauge will tell you quite a bit.

In thirty years of messing with early 70's Fords, I've had exactly one that I could not get to run acceptably with tune up parts and maybe a carb rebuild, and that one had three burnt exhaust valves.

 

[SVO2SCJ]

HI

I like the answers so far !!! The FIRST thing I do (when replying) is look at profile, photos (only one) and all of your posts -because we rarely get info like "I'm a welder/painter/engine builder...with XXX dollars to spend!" SO - I would ask what will your pain level be IF you don't Paint (or do interior) as a result of spending $8K on the engine compartment?

The $3000 buys a "rebuilt" long block (I see it is a 2V motor) ! My guess is IF you want a 4V the price is higher! You may or may not use all the things they offer! (Oil pan/ intake etc etc) For example I would never run cheap alum waterpumps as the outlets are cover 30% . You then need carb, dist, manifolds , pulleys mounts etc etc. Sure you can take all off your motor (have a bead plaster?) ! (you are then left with a block in your way -have a hoist and space?) THERE Is a good chance they want a CORE !! (willing to give up your matching number unit?)

The other thing is with winter coming, how much of a project to you want? 2 years? 3 years ? Personally I like to build motors , brake in on a stand (to confirm no leaks) then do an OUT/IN on a weekend! Lately I have been selling cars and keeping my engines !! (when people ask for discounts I say OK what do you want me to take off the car) Lately it has been 406W and a 351C. I'm fine with that as I know the builds, they ran good in the cars AND I get to keep the balanced and MATCH items together.

Tell us more!

Mark

 

[mustang7173]

Ash0468,

I am with the first 3 forum members. You have a matching 1971 M code 4v engine that was a stout motor in its day.

I highly recommend these books to read!

https://images.app.goo.gl/f952yzXxij2pYWAR8

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1884089275/carlytheautow-20

 

[delawarebill]

if u will be doing the build yourself it'll be about 1/2 that 3k. i did my 302 3 yrs ago. it was already bored 30 over and didn't need pistons. replaced everything but i did have the crank turned.. i got reconditioned heads from an atlanta ga company at a REALLY good price. the master gasket set i got from NAPA. my logic is if something goes wrong it's my fault... if i paid 3 grand and it broke i'd be really ticked off... i'm not a engine builder but i can do it.. done 5 so far and never an issue... so if u can do it..... do it... it's very nice to hear that motor fire up and know YOU built it...

 

[MikeGriese]

The rebuilt engine as described is not a "simple street engine", and for $3k, you are not done - there is no carb listed.

What really matters is what you want out of the car. You say a simple street machine, but this engine is gonna have a lumpy idle. Do you like rattling off a list of go faster bits in your engine? This may be the option. What is the rest of the car like? Are you doing anything to the transmission, suspension, brakes, tires or rear end to cope with what this engine might be capable of? Depending on the rest of the car, a matching numbers engine may be far more important to final value than this rebuild.