Putty plastic repair

[JJHStang]

I have asked before and received 1 answer in another forum (bondo) pictures
I need to fill and paint gouges in my plastic rear side panels (pictures attached) of my 71 Mach1.
I have purchased the correct matching paint from advice I have received on this forum and other forums.
But first I have to fill in the damaged areas then match the texture.
I have googled how to match texture using a glue gun and dent remover pull tabs.

Question: What should I use to fill in the damaged areas before texturing and painting? Is Bondo still the best to use?

 

[tony-muscle]

I don't know if this is the best idea, but maybe some type of plastic epoxy to make sure it has good bonding with the substrate (panel). The epoxy can be molded and then shaped before it cures. Evercoat has a flexible putty, but I don't know how good bonding will it have against your panel. Whatever you do, make sure you "sand" and clean the area before filling. You want to sand it a little so there are scratches for the filler to "grab".

 

[Hemikiller]

The quarter trim panels are semi-flexible and IIRC, are molded from ABS. I doubt you'll get good adhesion with "bondo" filler. I'd talk to SEM to see what they recommend as a repair material.

https://www.semproducts.com/products/repair/plastic-repair

 

[JJHStang]

Thanks for the advice.

It was suggested using DAP Tank bond but not sure, never used.

 

[Stanglover]

The panels are ABS plastic. You need a filler that will 'melt' into the repair. ABS is a solvent type plastic, so only solvent based fillers will work. Texturing the repair can be done, but I have no experience with that to pass on.

 

[piper62j]

I use the two part repair epoxy that is made for flexible bumper parts.. Can't recall the name of the product, but Orielly auto parts carries it.. It's a bit expensive (around $7 - $8) for a small amount, but it works very well on any plastic material.. It cures surface hard, but flexible.. Can be sanded, textured and painted.

 

[JJHStang]

Thank you all for the great advice. I am going to look at the JB Weld for plastic. It states it works on ABS plastic.

 

[JJHStang]

I need to get it pretty close to so smooth at application since I am going to stamp the texture into it just before it dries.
Anything will look better than the gouges.
Going by a youtube video “How to copy a texture especially plastic.”

 

[Horsin' Around]

ABS slurry or paste made with shavings from a like part or scrap part. Use a glass jar, add enough shavings and acetone to melt the plastic. Vary the shaving/acetone ratio to get the desired consistency. Becomes one with the original plastic part. Practice on some scrap first.

 

[Stanglover]

ABS slurry or paste made with shavings from a like part or scrap part. Use a glass jar, add enough shavings and acetone to melt the plastic. Vary the shaving/acetone ratio to get the desired consistency. Becomes one with the original plastic part. Practice on some scrap first.

Good idea, but also you could use ABS pipe cement as the solvent. I've done this before, but to be honest, with mixed results. Getting the correct finish is the hardest part.
If all else fails, buy new parts or good used, then repaint them. For paint, I prefer SEM plastic paints.

 

[JJHStang]

Thank you for the suggestions. I have purchased SEM flexible color coat from NDP. They say it will match the Vermillion for 71 - 73 Mustangs which is what I have found is the color. We’ll see.

 

[jscott]

I have also used this item on some interior pieces to help bring back the grain in my repairs.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39853-Texture-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B000PL074S

 

[JJHStang]

I made an attempt on making a texture stamp. I don’t think it turned out to bad.
Getting the epoxy filler smooth and using the stamp at the right time just before it sets up works.

 

[Stanglover]

I made an attempt on making a texture stamp. I don’t think it turned out to bad.
Getting the epoxy filler smooth and using the stamp at the right time just before it sets up works.

Interesting.

 

[JJHStang]

I have the paint, texture stamp. Once I have filled the gouges, scratches.
Should I use a spray promoter/primer?
If so, what brand should I use? I do not want a spray that might cover the texture.
I have read about some that sounds like it sprays on to thick.

 

[Stanglover]

That depends on what the paint manufacturer suggest on the can. If so, use the same brand of promotor/primer as the paint and just spray a light coat. A good plastic paint should be ok without a promotor/primer. I like SEM products best, but Duplicolor also makes good plastic paints.

 

[JJHStang]

Thanks, I have SEM paint.

 

[73T5Conv]

I tried around a bit this year with plastic repair. My aim was to try epoxy on my interior quarter panels on my 68 convertible, which are thouroughly broken on the edges and flanges but also on the flat surface over the years. So I bought 2-component-epoxy which you have to mix as described. For a stronger fix I decided to add glass-fiber-texture. You make one layer of epoxy with glass-fibre at a time (like a lasagne). Let the epoxy soak into the glass fibre and then the next layer. If you follow the instructions, it will perform exactly as described. First the epoxy is very liquid, then it develops through different "honey-stages" from liquid honey texture to heavy, creamy honey texture, then changing to sticky caramell until its hardening completely after about 20 hours. - You see from my descriptions I like to cook, too!

First picture shows the prep-state (1=quarter panel (always work from the backside), 2=glass-fibre cut to needs, epoxy mixed with a brush in a metal container (not plastic container - it can get hot when two components react with each other - and melt your mix container away - eventhough my mixture didn't warm up at all), 3=a metal weight to compress the panel on the work station). Please do wear those medicine gloves to protect your hands! It can get messy!



Second picture shows after-work-state (1=gloves!!!, 2=epoxy 2-component-mix, 3=glass fibre "lasagne" - multiple layers of glass fibre with epoxy mix softened and laid out in the broken areas). You see, I even repaired broken screw-counters which I could drill a hole in afterwards to receive the screw (#4).



If you take care of a good fixation for the epoxy to harden in, you'll get very good results with a very strong (as good as new) fix. You better work on the backside of the part to repair. Keep a good dis-adhesion (with baking paper or teflon spray for instance - which I didn't unfortunately) from anything which should not adhere to the part. Picture 3 shows my mess I received because I didn't realise the epoxy ran through to the bottom and I almost made an everlasting bond between my quarterpanels and the carton I placed to protect my working station. Only with a hot air blower (#1) I could ease the material a bit so to loose the carton (#3) from the quarterpanel (#2). That's your plan B if something goes wrong - a hot air blower will help you out. Anyway I'll have to repaint the quarter panel - so I could live with this mistake. I got rid of most of the carton from my quarterpanel. I even repaired the broken clips/buttons for the top boot cover which almost all tore out through the years.

 

[JJHStang]

Thank you for the very good information and pics. It is good to hear about the consistency of the 2 part epoxy.
I am going to do some quarter panel repairs using the J B Weld putty stick. I do not have any cracks juts gouges and worn areas. I need to work on the front not back. I plan on kneading the putty per instructions then pressing and smoothing into place. Just before it sets use the stamp I made to stamp the texture then spray adhesive promoter and then spray paint with color matching SEM paint I bought from NPD.