Rebuild Update

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I was lucky I guess. I only waited a month to get mine in the shop. Front suspension, rear spring bushings, water pump, carb rebuild, and a power steering leak. I can't wait to get the bill.
I stopped by a mustang shop here in phoenix, won't name the place, and definitely seemed knowledgeable with a much shorter lead time. But the place was in complete disarray, parts all over the place, and right off the bat suggested I go with a stroker kit, which I didn't even mention. I know I will have a decent bill when its all done, but I am prepped for it.
 
My engine builder has taken upwards of 2+ years and only has the short block finished so far. Yep. the builder is me.
That still doesn't matter after the engine's been run. The rings rotate around the piston and the gaps move around in relation to each other.
Not saying that it does. Just speculation on what the machinist MIGHT have meant…..
 
Have an update on the motor! Just waiting on the pushrods to get in. Intake and and distributor will be going on later today.
 

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You have to be feeling good about that! Are they going to do the initial startup and break-in on a dyno?
Super pumped! Should be all buttoned up and ready for instal in the next few weeks. Not sure on that bit. I know he’s going to manually check the oil pressure later today and send me a video. I was able to check the block and that part matches up, but what is the 3A3?
 
3A3 is the date code on the block. I think it's for 3 January 1973 but someone more knowledgeable can confirm.

You may want to ask your builder to explain their engine break in procedure and if they're using a break-in oil for the start up. Break-in oils have a higher zinc content to protect the internal parts, especially the cam and lifters, during the initial run. Read this for more: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/break-in-oil-does-zinc-additive-really-help/53663
 
3A3 is the date code on the block. I think it's for 3 January 1973 but someone more knowledgeable can confirm.

You may want to ask your builder to explain their engine break in procedure and if they're using a break-in oil for the start up. Break-in oils have a higher zinc content to protect the internal parts, especially the cam and lifters, during the initial run. Read this for more: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/break-in-oil-does-zinc-additive-really-help/53663
Okay that would make a lot of since being the date code as I was told this was the original block, and according to the marti report it was built 1/16/73. Break in oil for sure, and a zinc additive as I was show yesterday. It is at Venom Classics in Mesa, AZ. Seeing the other vehicles they have in there gives me full confidence it will be done right. Especially if out of state owners ship their vehicles there to get work done.
 
Did he clarify "they didn't properly line up the piston rings"? Aren't those things supposed to spin around on a properly functioning engine? Lining them up during assembly is just to help the builder's OCD.
It's more likely that the weren't gapped properly and when they heated up they squeezed together at the joint. This could have been the catalyst for what happened to your rods.
 
Holy Cow! Times have lengthened substantially since I had mine done in February of 2021!
The Shop I took it to, Arizona Engine Rebuilding, was pretty busy, and they took about 6 weeks, to do this:
  • PISTON'S & RINGS
  • ROD & MAIN BEARINGS
  • CAM BEARINGS (WHERE APPLICABLE)
  • OIL PUMP
  • TIMING CHAIN & GEARS OR TIMING BELT
  • ALL NEW GASKET/SEALS
  • CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
  • FREEZE PLUGS
  • 3 ANGLE VALVE JOB
  • INSTALATION KIT - OIL, FILTER, COOLANT, GASKET SET
  • R & R ENGINE
  • NOTCH BLOCK OUT FOR ROLLER CAM
  • WELD CRACKED HEAD & INSTALL SEAT
  • RETRO ROLLER CAM & LIFTER UPGRADE
  • ROLLER ROCKERS
  • oil switch
  • water pump
  • spark plugs
  • thermostat housing
  • coolant temp sensor
  • electric ignition
  • carb gasket
  • carb mount gasket
  • distributor plate
And they did a great job too. I hope you are as satisfied with the work you're having done.
What did they charge you for it?
 
Who did the machine work? I am looking for a machine stop in Phx area that can square up a block I'm working on.
The shop I am at took it to B&B Automotive Machine Co. in Mesa. They did an awesome job. Give them a shout if youre not in a hurry! My shop said they aren't sure if hes taking private work right now.
 
Well boys she’s in the shop! Next time she comes out it will be me driving her home. To-do list is rebuilding the A/C, motor/tranny install, Fi-Tech install, 3.5 gears and Trac Loc, and factory front suspension replaced. That’s the extent of the major things. Few odds and ends left. Carpet while the seats are out, I already did the fold down and trap door. Have new foam and upholstery for the front buckets, and a new dash pad to put on after they remove the original for clearance. I polished all the chrome a few weeks back while I was waiting, rear bumper doesn't look too bad now that I can see it in the light! Carport paint job of the hood is a huge improvement from the surface rust orange that it came with.
 

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You sure know how to keep us in suspense! Glad to see you're making progress. When do you expect to do that drive?
I am hoping by end of July or August but haven't been given an exact time table for it. Now that it is in, I am thinking they will want to get it knocked out sooner rather than later. In theory they won't need to go through any wiring minus the additions of fitech/ignition. All my gauges worked so that will be a big time saver.
 
Stopped by the shop today! FiTech and AC is all hooked up, goes to the exhaust shop tomorrow. Once it comes back the heater core will have gotten there to be replaced. New dash pad will go in when the dash comes out.
 

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