removing air conditioning

[73mach1whiskey]

I am wanting to remove the ac from my 1973 mach1 351c with factory ram air. It hasn't been working for years and i don't need it on there anyway. I need to remove the compressor to get easier access to the distributor i'm changing which is 'stuck'.

I figure may as well just remove all of it and leave it off. I think it looks cleaner personally without it.

Do i need to leave the idler pulley on the car or anything else since it did come factory equipped? If i don't need it i'd like to just remove it and anything else i don't need. There is also a pulley at the bottom that looks like it is only for the ac system. Can i remove that as well?

Then what would i need to do as far as plugging up holes? Do they make a delete kit i need? Sorry i tried searching but can only find things about adding ac not removing it. Another question is what belts do i need to ask for? The other belts don't seem like they had anything to do with the ac at all but when i look for replacement belts there are options for w/o ac and w/ ac. It's confusing since it seems there is a belt specifically for the ac only.

Sorry i did try searching but just didn't find much on this. I would assume others have removed their ac as well. Thanks

 

[Mister 4x4]

Wow - that's polar opposite of what most people do. Mine was a non-A/C car and I added a Classic Auto Air system.

First, make sure to evacuate the system (if it's not already done) - releasing any R12 (or 134A if it's been converted) is not a healthy thing to do, in addition to being under pressure. You should be fine removing the air compressor, the belt, and its bracketry, providing you don't have power steering also. If so, you'll need to get the non-A/C power steering brackets to replace the void left by the A/C bracket. The hard lines from the compressor to the dryer and condenser can be removed with those components as well. The 'soft' lines should come loose at the firewall. Once that's all done, the engine compartment is pretty much done (leave the crank pulley alone - it won't hurt anything not having the A/C belt installed).

Short of removing the heater core and replacing with a non-A/C heater core, I would recommend removing the hoses and use a small length of the appropriate-sized heater hose to connect the high-side to the low-side at the firewall - effectively, capping off or sealing the A/C evaporator core into itself.

You should hang onto the A/C equipment you pull off - if you ever decide you need it again, you'll have it. Or, I'm sure someone might be interested in buying it.

Hope that helps!

 

[73mach1whiskey]

Yes i know it sounds odd but it has never worked anyways since i have owned it. So i wont miss it, windows down works for me.

I do have power steering so thanks for that. I can just use the bracket i have for now correct? Now if the heater core is an issue maybe it's not worth removing the A/C. Do i need to replace the heater core with a non A/C one? Everything else sounds pretty simple. I will be keeping everything just so I can put it back later if i want. If not it's nice having all the original equipment with the car anyways.

Any idea on the belt questions? I am guessing that different bracket may make a difference on the belts?

Thanks for the response and good to know on the bracket!

 

[Mister 4x4]

I do have power steering so thanks for that. I can just use the bracket i have for now correct?

Not entirely sure what you're asking here. The A/C bracket bolts onto the driver side head, just like the power steering bracket does. However, there may be a bolt or two where the bracketry for both is 'stacked' on the same bolt - if that's the case, then you'll need to fill the void between the head and the power steering bracket, if necessary when you remove the A/C bracket. Make sense?

You'll also need to go with shorter bolts, if the brackets are stacked (to eliminate the length required for both brackets to be on the same bolt).

Now if the heater core is an issue maybe it's not worth removing the A/C. Do i need to replace the heater core with a non A/C one?

I wouldn't worry about removing the factory heater core. Capping off the A/C lines should take care of the A/C's evaporator without having to remove the heater core. It will function exactly as it does now, just without any air conditioned air blowing through the vents.

Any idea on the belt questions? I am guessing that different bracket may make a difference on the belts?

More than likely it will - IF you have to change the brackets. If you can get away with a spacer, or simply removing the A/C bracket without affecting the power steering bracket, the no 'new' belts should be needed - the A/C, alternator, and power steering pump all have their own belts, after all.

I remember going to the local parts store, and they asked me WAY too many questions about getting just the alternator and power steering belts: with A/C; without A/C; H-code Cleveland; there were something like 15 different belts available.

 

[73mach1whiskey]

Thanks for the quick reply! I think I am good now. On the bracket I was just asking if leaving the old bracket(s) on for now would be ok. I assume it would be fine just not as 'clean' looking. I believe they are 'stacked' at least the one where the idler pulley is attached. The one for the compressor I don't remember. Sorry I am probably making it more complex than it really is but yes your answer makes sense. I'll get back into it later this week or weekend i hope.

Good deal on the heater core. I will cap off the a/c lines like you said.

The belts I was replacing since mine are old and cracked, may as well do it now before i wish i had. Alternator and power steering is all i need so once i figure out my brackets i'll know how to answer their questions at the store. And yeah same here there are at least a dozen different ones available when i called and looked online.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Like is said above all you need is a spacer or stack of washers to position the power steering pump the thickness of the cast iron Air Con bracket. The belt for the air conditioner is just that and does not run anything else. I am just finishing up rebuilding my system. You cannot put a no air con. heater box in your car without some extensive work to the firewall cowl. Cars without air have a helmet shaped piece welded over a hole in the firewall to clear for the blower motor. This is not on a car with air. That is one of the things the Buck tag tells them to do when welding up the chassis. It would be inside the right hand wheel well. I have attached a picture of the dome shaped part for reference. There is also a picture of the firewall of a non air car. Also the heater / air controls are different and no air cars have fresh air vents with knobs you pull to open. There is no hole in the cowl and no hat on the left side with air conditioning. You would have to cut a hole in the cowl and there is pretty much no way to get the hat on the new hole so water would pour in. It is much easier to put air in a car than take it out if that makes sense. I agree you should keep all the pieces and bolts and if you sell the car it will ad value. When I got my 73 Mach 1 new I came home and pulled the air belt to get that extra 5 hp that it robs. I ordered it with air because I knew it would ad value later.

David

 

[OMS]

The bracket for power steering is different for A/C VS. non A/C

As others have said you can pull all the compressor parts, idler, condenser and lines

You could pull the lines off the expansion valve and just plug the holes.

You could even pull the expansion valve and cap the evaporator tubes.

That way you could always put the A/C back on

Don

I have the bracket if you end up needing one

 

[Hemikiller]

Functionally, you can remove the A/C support bracket from the cylinder head and put a stack of washers behind the pump bracket to space it properly from the head. Ford used a thick steel spacer to accomplish this, I can get you a measurement if needed. Also, if you have the steering cooler mounted to the face of the A/C pump, you'll need to figure out a mounting method, or remove it. The non-A/C cars with the cooler had two holes in the pump bracket and a specific cooler.

Personally, I would only remove the lines, condensor and pump to clean up the engine compartment and cap the evaporator lines at the firewall. Don't mess around under the dash, as noted above, there's a lot more to an AC car than meets the eye. In the future, you can always put the parts back on very easily.

 

[73mach1whiskey]

Yeah the only thing i saw was the space you and the others mentioned when i got it all removed. I did use a stack of washers and at least in my case it was 1/2 inch. My car didn't have the steering cooler so no issues on that. All i need to do now is find or make some caps for the evap lines and i'm good. I didn't touch anything in the car since i figured there is no benefit to it and yeah i may want it back one day.

Thanks for all the comments. This really all started because of something else but i do like the look without A/C and since it wasn't working i'm not going to miss it...yet.

 

[Hemikiller]

Thanks for all the comments. This really all started because of something else but i do like the look without A/C and since it wasn't working i'm not going to miss it...yet.

Lemme guess, you tried to set the timing....

The placement of the AC pump makes this simple task a complete PITA.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Thanks for all the comments. This really all started because of something else but i do like the look without A/C and since it wasn't working i'm not going to miss it...yet.

Lemme guess, you tried to set the timing....

The placement of the AC pump makes this simple task a complete PITA.

Humm my timing mark is on the passenger side on the Cleveland 351.

David