Removing Lower Control Arm

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EdM

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2014
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Location
Between the Texas Hill Country and North Idaho
My Car
1973 Mach 1 Q code, a 427 Dart based Windsor, Pro Flo 4, Len Tech AOD, A/C, 12.7:1 steering conversion, SoT coil over and Dakota Digital dash.
As mentioned previously in my "lack of patience" thread, this front end has been a major PITA to disassemble. Nothing like Q's video. :huh: I now have one side out fully and the other side's ball joints popped (after renting a compressor and using an air hammer/pickle fork). I am trying to remove the LCA and the bolt attaching it to the frame is not budging. The nut is off, the LCA dangles loosely, when I turn the bolt via wrench the alignment "cam" turns with it causing further bind when I move from the neutral (non-camming) position. I have tried using a socket/extension through the frame attachment hole on the bolt banging it with a hammer and it still won't move. Any other ideas? Air hammer time again?

 
I got the upper out just know. When I pulled the shock I noted that one of the attachment "ears" had snapped off. I figured out why... It is amazing to me that the PO would fully rebuild the drive train (engine, top loader and trac-lock 9"), brakes, exterior paint, interior, etc., and not touch the original suspension and steering stuff.



 
WOW!!!!! That looks a complete mess and dangerous. I'm with you on your train of thought. If a jobs worth doing why give it less than 100%. The previous owner must have been a fool especially when you consider the catastrophic state of the contents of that picture

 
On your LCA, it sounds like the "free" cam washer is wedged on the cam bolt. Make sure the offset is in the same orientation and if not, hold the one on the side of the nut and rotate the bolt head to get them lined up. After that, you should be able to tap the bolt out.

 
yes like basstrix said.. the cam on the nut side comes off, the one on the bolt side is fixed.. pull off nut and smack it with a bfh.. u can buy replacements. also when u re-apply the upper arm make sure u lube the heck out of it. u may not have openings to get to fittings once installed.. my fairlane would not let me install the uppers with grease fittings on. also grease up ball joints before install and make sure they rotate fairly easy..

did u buy a full replacement kit or just parts ??

another thing, when u go to put the coil spring back on, do yourself a huge favor and have another set of hands for locate spring when it's being undone from spring retainer. the spring has a good chance of moving to where u don't want it.

 
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Well if the bolt is rusted tight to the metal center spacer in side the LCA bushing, you are going to have one heck of a time pounding it out. Sometimes the only answer is get the torch out and do careful surgery

 
another thing, when u go to put the coil spring back on, do yourself a huge favor and have another set of hands for locate spring when it's being undone from spring retainer. the spring has a good chance of moving to where u don't want it.
I'm not a fan of placing fingers and hands in and around compressed coil springs. You might want to consider using locking pliers to secure the bottom coil to the spring perch in the proper position and then begin to release the pressure.

 
another thing, when u go to put the coil spring back on, do yourself a huge favor and have another set of hands for locate spring when it's being undone from spring retainer. the spring has a good chance of moving to where u don't want it.
I'm not a fan of placing fingers and hands in and around compressed coil springs. You might want to consider using locking pliers to secure the bottom coil to the spring perch in the proper position and then begin to release the pressure.
Yes take Bills advice. Things happen so quick that I didn't notice the very tip of my finger was gone when one let loose last yr. And I was trying to be careful....
 
Appreciate the replies gents. I am going in with a SoT coil over system so no more playing with compressed springs. All new MOOG steering stuff as well. I am heading out know to give it another go.

 
Bingo. I got it to where the cam washer would wriggle on the bolt yet still not come off. A lot of hammer needed. Thanks again. Now time to clean it all up then begin the assembly process.

 
Cam bolts are a major weakness to the mustang front suspension. I suggest you replace that cam bolt with a new one. It sounds like you are ready to reassemble now, but if not, I saw that rock auto was selling a pair of them for less than $10.

 
Cam bolts are a major weakness to the mustang front suspension. I suggest you replace that cam bolt with a new one. It sounds like you are ready to reassemble now, but if not, I saw that rock auto was selling a pair of them for less than $10.
Thanks for the tip. I am installing the SoT lower control arm camber kit so all will be new.

 
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