routing of gas line at tank

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1973 Mach 1
work in progress
302 automatic
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Can some one tell me or post pictures of the way gas line is routed over rear axle and connection to tank.  Here's pics of what mine looks like now.   The PO has the line held up with tie wraps.

thanks

Bob

 
The gas line (not the vapor line) runs along/underneath the driver side rocker (pinch weld) to the front wheel well and thru the front apron to the fuel pump. The vapor line is a smaller diameter line that runs from the tank thru the tunnel up the passenger side firewall to the charcoal canister attached to the RH inner fender apron behind the shock tower.







.

 
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May be this will add something. I changed my fuel line to SS, had rust in the old steel ones, which plugged up my filters..

Also change ALL your rubber hose pieces to high pressure injector hose. It is Ethanol resistant ON THE INSIDE, but gas will soften the outside for some weird reason, so keep gas from touching the outside.

There should be at least two clips holding the line to the body over the wheel arch, one back and one front. I used a couple of short pieces of hose as an anti-rattle sleeve. Just wish I could type on this program!!

Geoff.

 
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Thanks for the pictures, they are great and will really help me.  The vapor lines have all been removed.

Bob
 Glad to help out. Make sure the lines are held so they don't vibrate or rub on the frame and clear all the obstructions. I also replaced the rubber grommets where the lines go through the apron. They can be bought from NPD. Well worth taking your time on this to do it right. As for the clips, I found some at my local "you name it - we got it" store that have rubber inserts on SS clips. They had them in all sizes. Very useful and worked well.

The vapor line is also the vent for the tank. It connects to the top of the tank. There should be a filter under the cap as well. Here's a pic of a new tank before I installed it.

 
Another thing to add to previous posts by Rackrem and Stanglover, is your selection of hose clamps. Do not use gear clamps, they will leak within a year, or so. I couldn't tell what Rackerm used, but it looks like Stanglover used the wide spring clamps. Those are also my favorite, they keep a constant pressure on the hose and squeeze down as the rubber moves out of the way, and dries out and shrinks. They also adjust to temperature changes.

If you're going for concourse you may have to use the crimp style clamps.

 
Another thing to add to previous posts by Rackrem and Stanglover, is your selection of hose clamps. Do not use gear clamps, they will leak within a year, or so. I couldn't tell what Rackerm used, but it looks like Stanglover used the wide spring clamps. Those are also my favorite, they keep a constant pressure on the hose and squeeze down as the rubber moves out of the way, and dries out and shrinks. They also adjust to temperature changes.

If you're going for concourse you may have to use the crimp style clamps.
+1 Don. Forgot about clamps. I use both spring and crimp style, but NEVER gear clamps unless it's a temporary thing (for testing) that I'll be taking apart in the very near future. Also, I don't reuse clamps either if they have been on for a while, just me I guess.

Geoff.

 
The routing over the wheel well is a pet peeve of mine. If the line can be seen with the wheel off, then it can be damaged in the event of a blowout. It might not be concours, but I will not have an exposed line visible in my wheel well.

 
The routing over the wheel well is a pet peeve of mine.  If the line can be seen with the wheel off, then it can be damaged in the event of a blowout.  It might not be concours, but I will not have an exposed line visible in my wheel well.
 Interesting comment Jeff. I'd certainly not thought of that.  I guess anything is possible, not likely, but possible. The factory placement was as mine is, so I doubt Ford thought about it either.

 Hmm, food for thought!

Geoff.

 
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