Seeking Help & Advice on Centre Guage Setup.

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I bought a cheap three gauge cluster from Autozone. I used a hole saw to enlarge the openings but it was tricky doing it that way. A dremel would have been easier. I mounted mine from the front. The gauges came with small metal brackets that slide over studs on the back of each gauge to clamp them to the original face plate that came with the gauges. With a little massaging and judicious use of some washers it worked with the factory gauge bezel. I think I have 30 bucks into it.

Here is another approach:

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/649084-rocketman-retrofit-tach-72-mach-1-a.html

 
Thanks T,

That sounds like a tantalizing option, but i've come this far with the Auto Meter deal, and i'll more than likely pursue that option. I think there will be a few '71-'73 guys who would jump right in fast on the factory setup depending on price of course.

Greg:)

Thanks Tommy,

Interesting to hear what you ended up doing as well. (plus the link)

I've got a feeling i'm going to make this sucker work one way or another!

Greg:)

 
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When you need to drill a bigger hole what you can do is the double hole saw method. Attach a hole saw that fits in the existing hole underneath the new larger hole you want to drill. The smaller one will be the pilot for the bigger one. Easy to make nice cuts this way.

Greg

 
Hi other Greg.

I promised more details on how these are mounted over the break. It looks like the original 3 guage holder was cut a little to hold the Autometer guages and attached that way. So to do it like this you would need a housing from a car with original guages.

See photos:

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I've been watching this thread as,my vert also came with idiot lights. I managed to find a factory setup and went about installing that, it took some time and halfway through I thought "what the heck have I done to my car" but love the look of the end result.

 
Hi Greg,

Thank you very much for following through with your photos as promised last year. That's very kind and helpfull of you indeed.

Your pics tell a very interesting story. My new center bezel from Don at Ohio Mustang just arrived yesterday, and i've been busy having a real close look at my options for setting up the gauges.What i've discovered so far is interesting as well.

Firstly, i noticed that the shape of the three holes at the front face of the bezel are quite eliptical in design, certainly not round.You might recall that i have purchased on E Bay last year, a genuine set of three center gauges with complete mounting pod in case i would or could use the pod to play a part in mounting my new Autometer gauges into the new bezel.

Full marks and credit to Ford America. When you team up the original backup and face pod and gauges to the bezel, you discover that the design and shaping of the whole thing is a work of art. The way it all fits together and lines up is fantastic. All designed to intergrate in together beautifully.

So if i decided to mount my new Autometer gauges into the front of the bezel as some have done before, i think that would look passable, but you would notice the fact that you have circular gauge bezels sitting on the eliptical face housings of the main center bezel. My gauges have a chrome outer ring, and that would emphasise that even more.

The better option, would be to do what's been done on your car, and mount the new gauges from behind using the original backup pod.Before i saw your pics, i worked out that i could carefully cut or Dremel into the original face pod, enlarge the existing holes, and slip the Autometers into place. The problem is that you would have to remove or cut into a fair amount of the back of the backup pod to allow the new gauges to fit.

Bingo! That's what was done in your case. However, your pics show that the original front & back pod has been hacked into fairly agressively to mount the new gauges, and the final alignment of the new gauges differs slightly. Also, i noticed your design of Autometer gauges appeares to have a larger outer bezel than mine have.

Bottom line is, i feel that doing what you've done and along those lines,would be the go and would work.

However, before i start hacking into my original pod,and installing the new Autometer gauges, i'm making serious enquiries about getting my original Ford three center gauges reconditioned (that includes converting the amp gauge into a volt gauge) and wiring those original gauges into my system. If that idea is feasable, i think that would offer the best finished look of all.

So that's where i'm at for the moment, and my enquires still continue.

Thanks again for the photos Greg, they've been a great help for me.

Greg:)



I've been watching this thread as,my vert also came with idiot lights. I managed to find a factory setup and went about installing that, it took some time and halfway through I thought "what the heck have I done to my car" but love the look of the end result.
Hi Ken,

I'll be able to give you some feedback on the kick plate speaker mounting foot brake problem soon. I'm onto it .

Greg.:)

 
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I would not hack an original gage setup. I'd use flat stock and fab a mount bracket to hang the gauges behind the bezel.
Hi Totalled,

Thanks for your feedback. I understand what you mean, and that would be another way of setting up the Autometer gauges. A fair amount of work involved, but i think it could work.

However, the problem remains that when the three new gauges, which are circular, come to meet the three holes of the dash bezel, which are eliptical, you get the same problem of circular meets eliptical. The same problem as mounting the new gauges from the front idea as i stated before.

I'm sorry, but what i didn't explain enough before, is that the clever Ford design of the whole pod works as a transfer from circular gauge to eliptial bezel housings.The whole pod detatches into two separate sections, (front and back pods).The front pod acts as a transfer - separating or spacing go between, if you like, between the gauges and the main dash bezel. So the original gauges sit back in about an inch or so from the face of the main bezel, not right on the bezel. So it's the front pod housing that's shaped to transfer circular to eliptical if you like.

What i was wanting to do, was to carefully Dremel out the small, flat existing holes in the front pod, slip the Autometer gauges into the enlarged holes, then cut out certain parts of the back wall of the back pod, to allow the backs of the new gauges to come through the back pod housing.

In doing it that way, you would'nt be diturbing that shape transfer between the front pod and the main bezel.I think that would be a better way of dealing with the set up. BTW you would also have to carefuly remove (if you want to),the three original flat plastic lenes that sits on the face of the front pod.Those lenes become redundant, as the new gauges have their own individual lenes. If you don't remove the original flat lenes,to retain the original look, you would more than likely have to give them some sort of power polish to bring them up clear again as age has probably made them cloudy and maybe scratched, thus cutting down your visability to read your gauges properly.

So in Greg's case, he has removed the original lenes, and also removed the moulded plastic section that acts as the spacing go between gauges and main bezel. I am trying to keep that original spacing, if i was to mount the new gauges. So it's back to the lab for me!

Greg:)

 
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Greg, I agree with you. The autometers look nice but if I were doing it again I think I'd have kept the original gauges. My car came with them from the factory but maybe they weren't working so the previous owner did the autometer deal.

Anyway, looks good on my car when installed and am happy with what's currently there.

Greg

 
Greg, I agree with you. The autometers look nice but if I were doing it again I think I'd have kept the original gauges. My car came with them from the factory but maybe they weren't working so the previous owner did the autometer deal.

Anyway, looks good on my car when installed and am happy with what's currently there.

Greg
I understand what you mean Greg, and i agree. The most important thing is that you're happy with what you've got and it all works.

Greg:)

 
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I recommend using white face gage's as they are easier to read at night. I did one set in white and one in black. Ask Midlife if He has a replacement under dash wiring harness be fore cutting into the harness. A lot changes in the wiring color codes from 71 to 73.

 
Austin should stay with autometer center gauges, as the wiring needed for the conversion is much simpler and probably cheaper than going with the Ford system. Yeah, I'm losing business, but I'm already swamped!

 
I recommend using white face gage's as they are easier to read at night. I did one set in white and one in black. Ask Midlife if He has a replacement under dash wiring harness be fore cutting into the harness. A lot changes in the wiring color codes from 71 to 73.
Hi Mus,

Thanks for your suggestion and advice. I know what you mean about the white face way, but i'll stick to black for now and see how i go.

Greg:)



Austin should stay with autometer center gauges, as the wiring needed for the conversion is much simpler and probably cheaper than going with the Ford system. Yeah, I'm losing business, but I'm already swamped!
Hi Midlife,

Many thanks for your advice and feedback. Staying with and using the Autometer gauges looks like the most practical and cost saving way to go with all the wiring issues etc, etc. My research gave me that impression as well.

All i need now is to mount them in the best practical and good looking way to the center dash bezel. I'm on it!.

I appreciate your help, advice and honesty on this one Sir.

Thanks, Greg:)

 
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Hi to All,

Just wanted to give all forum members my final update on setting up the three center gauges.The good news is, i've had a BIG WIN, and the end result looks fantastic. I am really pleased that they turned out so well.

Please be warned though, that the job is a precise, delicate, and time consuming process. I would have spent around about 30 hours on the setup in total. So when you stop and consider that, it would cost way too much money to pay a company to do the work for you. This is strictly a DIY job.

Given the finished result looks great and very original, i think it is worth the effort and time to go this way.As i said before in another thread, it's sad that we can't, as yet, buy any aftermarket three gauge products for the '71 - '73 Mustangs.

Briefly, my approach was to carefully remove the original clear plastic cover lenes by using a fine point tipped stone on a dremel and carefully tip grind the original little plastic studs that hold the lens down to position. / the pod comes apart easily into two sections, front face and back / using a Dremel style tool with a cylintrical shaped stone, you very carefully carve and shape out the fixed round plastic faces of the front pod. The plastic grinds away fairly easily and sands down smooth to a fine finish as required./ once that is done, the new Autometer gauges will be placed behind the face of the front pod. The new cut holes will not allow the new gauges to slide in from the front.The gauge bezels are too big for that. So the three gauges end up being nestled and lie snugly in the curved, cradled shape on the back face of the front pod.If you accidentally damage the silver cones of the front pod, a little sand and spray with silver metallic pressure pak brings them up like new.A little bit of Dremeling at the bottom of these cradles is necessary so the face of the gauge sits and engages properly with the back face of the front pod. I chose Designer Black gauges as they look classic and the chrome bezels are not too big. (Warnng! Other gauges may have bigger bezels and won't fit into the Ford pod.) MINE JUST MADE IT IN!

The next step is to carve, shape, grind and sand holes into the back pod, so the gauges can come through the back without restriction.The same cylintrical grinding stone also does a good job of this without much fuss./ My idea for clamping the gauges into position was to use a 'pressing down', back clamping action. This will hold the gauges very firmly without trouble./ Assembly is next. Using a powerfull glue like Sikaflex Adhesive & Sealer, glue the front and back pods together.The Sika goes all the way around the perimeter of the two pod halves. This process is a must because of the backwards force exerted on the front and back pod walls for clamping the gauges in. / Useing precut rigid metal connection strips i bought from my hardware store, cut and shape them to fit as the clamping brackets. The gauge of metal chosen, means they won't bend too easily and cause problems. /Carefully place gauges into pod through the back, align up and clamp up with nuts and washers. Screw on the circular thumb nuts that came with the gauges to complete.

To finish, you can choose to use or not the original lenes you removed. I chose to use them, as it gives a better finished original look.They will more than likely have to be polished because of age and wear and tear. Mine came up vey clear and fresh. I used 2pak cutting compound first by hand rub and soft cloth, then finished off with a vigorous rub with carnuba wax paste polish and a soft cloth.The polishing process took me about i hour to do, and the fine scratches and cloudiness of the lenes came out well. Glue them back into position with a dab of Sika on the mounting spikes to finish.

Well folks, that's basically it. I have a link to Photobucket, showing the finished results. (These pics will help explain what i've done, and show off the end result).When you visit Photobucket, click on any image to enlarge the image for better viewing.

Thank you to all members who contributed to this thread and gave their input with help, advice and photos. You were a great help to me and i appreciate that. So, problem solved and on to the next challenge!

Many thanks,

Greg:)

http://s1295.beta.photobucket.com/user/gregsladen/library/

 
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