Seeking Help & Advice on Centre Guage Setup.

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Hi Eric,

many thanks for your feedback on this thread. I must say i really like your approach to setting up the center gauges as well. I'm pleased you like what John and myself have done with our approach, and your words of praise.

If you don't mind, i'm going to pop in your link to your own thread and the work that you did on your center gauge project. I think it would be a good idea to have you included here with us as well, so folks can get a good look at what you have done also for even more options.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-upgrade-triple-gauge-cluster?pid=234014#pid234014

Cheers,

Greg.:)
I don't mind at all Greg. The only reason I took the pics of the procedure was to post them here. As you know documenting takes time and effort while you're doing the project. I have always greatly appreciated those who make the effort to document and compose. I feel it's the right thing to do to contribute to our community of Mustang nut cases. It's always feels good to help someone who wants to try to tackle a project but doesn't know where to start. We all can use a little help, now and then! It doesn't feel right to only suck information from others and not give back. Without the contributors to this site, it wouldn't exist! Glad to be a part.

Eric



I like all of the above methods and I can't decide whether I prefer the stock look or the flush mount look that jhawk came up with.

Anyway I express my deepest respect for the degree of care and accuracy taken in these projects.

As some of you know, my skills are pretty limited and I usually go the "dirty deeds done dirt cheap" way, so I came up with a different idea.

Please note, my setup does NOT look factory stock but I did not have a center gauge panel to work with and my standard panel was screwed up because the PO had drilled a hole near the "Mustang" script.

So my approach is to be considered "Luxstang's cheap and easy way to center gauges that will never win a trophy but that will do their job while still looking halfway decent".

I wanna add that I did not even have to remove the center bezel for this setup but I would advise you to do it anyway because it's easier and cleaner to work on.

Unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the build stage but it's pretty easy.

First I dremeled out the whole piece in between the radio bezel molding and the hole under the map light (or air duct if you have AC).

Then I took a metal plate the exact shape of the area (that I took with a paper template) and drew a rectangle in the middle so that it would leave a frame of about 4 mm.

Then you cut out the piece in the middle of your metal plate and tilt it inward at the top and out at the bottom until you have the desired angle. (Imagine a horizontal pivot point).

I had a friend weld it at that angle and fill up the gaps with metal strips or triangles.

The gauges are Auto Meter and are mounted with Auto Meter angle rings and their own clips at the back, just as you would install them in any other bezel.

The whole shebang is held into place with 4 small screws on all 4 corners that bolt it to the plastic center piece.

That all sounds pretty confusing but the pictures make it perfectly clear.

Like I said, it won't win trophies and doesn't look original but it works, is easy to do and cheap and looks way better than a bezel bolted underneath the dashboard.

The big "pro" with this is that if you need to change a bulb or anything, you do not need to tear half of the dash apart because this simply unbolts with the 4 screws and comes out.

When I did this, none of these threads had yet been written and I had no idea how to do this and what to order and before I'd order a center bezel and gauges that would not fit, I preferred to be on the safe side.

If I had to choose, I'd use one of the methods my buddies showed above as it looks way more professional but at the time this was the best I could come up with. :)
Totally cool Mike! It is nice to be able to remove from the front, as you stated. Vanilla, chocolate, strawberry...:D

 
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Sorry I'm late to the party...been in NYC moving at a fast pace!

This thread has taken creativity to another level offering all kinds of options to our fellow Mustang brothers and sisters. All the ideas are so cool and yield a great finished product. This is the beauty of our site as we see more and more how-to threads on our cars that spark the creativity in others and gives us great starting points for our projects!

Cheers!

 
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Okay, I am going to give this a shot. For the guys that have converted, how is the visibility of the new gauges? I notice the original gauges point downward and have a pretty short sweep. All new gauges point upwards. Between the pointing upwards and having to set the gauge back some (if you keep the stock lens) do you have any issues seeing the gauge?

 
Okay, I am going to give this a shot. For the guys that have converted, how is the visibility of the new gauges? I notice the original gauges point downward and have a pretty short sweep. All new gauges point upwards. Between the pointing upwards and having to set the gauge back some (if you keep the stock lens) do you have any issues seeing the gauge?
Will, I've now driven with my new VDO gauge set up for almost 2,000 miles. I installed mine with construction grade hot glue and described how I did it somewhere in this thread in June or July, I think. I have no issues with this new setup. I restored my original lenses but decided to go without them as they were not needed, since the new gauges have their own lenses. The LED lights I put in them help very much as far as visibility goes. Most of the time I turn the lights on, even during the day, because it makes a huge difference. I opted to install flashing, coolant temp and oil pressure warning lights to further protect my engine investment. These will get your attention if you're just cruising and not constantly watching your gauges...they work great!

Here's a pic of the rear of the bezel with the gauges installed. They were all wired in with weather pack connectors. The warning lights can be seen just under the A/C vent. They were't wired at the time of the pic.

P7200110.jpg

Here's a post of a video of the front with both of the warning lights flashing...

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-73-deluxe-center-dash-bezel

 
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Okay, I am going to give this a shot. For the guys that have converted, how is the visibility of the new gauges? I notice the original gauges point downward and have a pretty short sweep. All new gauges point upwards. Between the pointing upwards and having to set the gauge back some (if you keep the stock lens) do you have any issues seeing the gauge?
Hi Mike,

Visibility with my replacement Auto meter gauges are ok, but not quite the same as the factory originals, in the sense that i find i have to lean my body over to the right a little to read the new gauges properly. That to me is not a big issue and it all works out well.

In my case, i kept the original glass covers on the Auto meter gauges as well as leaving the original Ford lens on as well. I polished up the Ford lens as it was a little cloudy and scratched with age. It came up very well and clear, so the end result works and looks very good. The gauges can therefore, be read very easily and well.

The only issue i had was with the Auto meter light bulbs that came with the new gauges. Sadly, the brightness of the bulbs was very poor, and so i have to get around to replacing them with brighter LED bulbs. Other than that, i have no other issues with my center gauge setup, and am very happy with the way it all turned out for me.

Greg.:)

 
OK. I am in the process of getting this project going while I have my interior out for other things. I have just a couple of questions....

1. I am looking at either Autometer or VDO gauges. Anyone have any issues with these brands in the past? I am going all electrical not mechanical. Finding the correct Autometer gauges and sending units is simple. The VDO information is not a good so I contacted their support via email and they sent me the correct part numbers within 30 min.

2. My car currently has the idiot lights. I would like to preserve their function as well as adding the gauges. I assume for the water temp I could just use the hole on top of the water pump for the sensor and run new wire to the gauge. Any idea on the Oil Pressure Sensor? Is there another tap in the block that can be used?

Thanks in advance.

 
OK. I am in the process of getting this project going while I have my interior out for other things. I have just a couple of questions....

1. I am looking at either Autometer or VDO gauges. Anyone have any issues with these brands in the past? I am going all electrical not mechanical. Finding the correct Autometer gauges and sending units is simple. The VDO information is not a good so I contacted their support via email and they sent me the correct part numbers within 30 min.

2. My car currently has the idiot lights. I would like to preserve their function as well as adding the gauges. I assume for the water temp I could just use the hole on top of the water pump for the sensor and run new wire to the gauge. Any idea on the Oil Pressure Sensor? Is there another tap in the block that can be used?

Thanks in advance.
Sorry Jason,

but technically i don't know enough about auto electrics and sensor units to give you advice. However, don't forget what i said in my thread about fitting Autometer gauges.

To recap, you will notice that my approach in mounting my Autometers is to insert or mount them inside the original Ford plastic gauge housing body, (or pod) not from or sitting on the outside of the housing body.

If you go my way in doing this, you will be restricted as to what brand and style of gauge you can use, in relation to how big the gauge bezel rim is.

As i said before - I chose Designer Black gauges as they look classic and the chrome bezels are not too big. (Warnng! Other gauges may have bigger bezels and won't fit into the Ford pod.) MINE JUST MADE IT IN!

But if you mount your gauges coming in from the front, you will have more scope or choice as to what size your gauge diameters can be. So bare all that in mind. Hope it all goes well for you.

SEE MY PICS AGAIN -

http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/gregsladen/library/?sort=3&page=1

Greg.:)

 
OK. I am in the process of getting this project going while I have my interior out for other things. I have just a couple of questions....

1. I am looking at either Autometer or VDO gauges. Anyone have any issues with these brands in the past? I am going all electrical not mechanical. Finding the correct Autometer gauges and sending units is simple. The VDO information is not a good so I contacted their support via email and they sent me the correct part numbers within 30 min.

2. My car currently has the idiot lights. I would like to preserve their function as well as adding the gauges. I assume for the water temp I could just use the hole on top of the water pump for the sensor and run new wire to the gauge. Any idea on the Oil Pressure Sensor? Is there another tap in the block that can be used?

Thanks in advance.
Sorry Jason,

but technically i don't know enough about auto electrics and sensor units to give you advice. However, don't forget what i said in my thread about fitting Autometer gauges.

To recap, you will notice that my approach in mounting my Autometers is to insert or mount them inside the original Ford plastic gauge housing body, (or pod) not from or sitting on the outside of the housing body.

If you go my way in doing this, you will be restricted as to what brand and style of gauge you can use, in relation to how big the gauge bezel rim is.

As i said before - I chose Designer Black gauges as they look classic and the chrome bezels are not too big. (Warnng! Other gauges may have bigger bezels and won't fit into the Ford pod.) MINE JUST MADE IT IN!

But if you mount your gauges coming in from the front, you will have more scope or choice as to what size your gauge diameters can be. So bare all that in mind. Hope it all goes well for you.

SEE MY PICS AGAIN -

http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/gregsladen/library/?sort=3&page=1

Greg.:)
Thanks. I will be mounting mine from the front so I do have some additional options as far as that goes. I am leaning more towards the autometer as I am familiar with them, but the VDO's do get good reviews online. Just hope I can find a way to use the gauges and keep my idiot lights working.

 
OK. I am in the process of getting this project going while I have my interior out for other things. I have just a couple of questions....

1. I am looking at either Autometer or VDO gauges. Anyone have any issues with these brands in the past? I am going all electrical not mechanical. Finding the correct Autometer gauges and sending units is simple. The VDO information is not a good so I contacted their support via email and they sent me the correct part numbers within 30 min.

2. My car currently has the idiot lights. I would like to preserve their function as well as adding the gauges. I assume for the water temp I could just use the hole on top of the water pump for the sensor and run new wire to the gauge. Any idea on the Oil Pressure Sensor? Is there another tap in the block that can be used?

Thanks in advance.

Here's what you need to be able to connect two oil pressure senders to the port at the top/rear of the block. I used it as I have a oil pressure gauge and a low oil pressure warning light.

Good Luck.

http://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-Fitting-Barstock-Street/dp/B006PKKXM4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

 
Cool. Thanks, that is what I was thinking would be needed. Any ideas on the plug on top of the water pump or another location for the temp sending unit.

 
Heres my take on the gauges. I used AustinVert's methodology and it worked well. Not sure I did mine as nice as his, but same concepts. The temp to far right is the hardest to see unless you lean right a bit. But honestly when you are driving and you get used to the "normal" look of it you can just glance, you are looking for relative position not actual numbers. SAAB engineers studied this at length years ago on fighter aircraft. They learned it takes more pilot effort in interpret exact reading vs. scanning gauges and memorizing the normal position that pointers sit at.



Heres my take on the gauges. I used AustinVert's methodology and it worked well. Not sure I did mine as nice as his, but same concepts. The temp to far right is the hardest to see unless you lean right a bit. But honestly when you are driving and you get used to the "normal" look of it you can just glance, you are looking for relative position not actual numbers. SAAB engineers studied this at length years ago on fighter aircraft. They learned it takes more pilot effort in interpret exact reading vs. scanning gauges and memorizing the normal position that pointers sit at.
Sorry, I forgot to say I left off the foggy plastic lenses. They give it the 1973 Cataract feel Lol.

all3gauges.JPG

 
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I would have thought water temp was the most important and therefore should go closest to the driver? I watch that more than any other gauge.
Hi Greg,

Fair comment there i guess, but when i set my gauges up, i chose the same layout as the Ford factory setup. I suppose my thinking or logic there was to fall in line with the original factory layout. Also, i was thinking of changing the gauges to give me readouts relating to other things around the car, but again, i thought it best to stay with the Ford factory formula for that original flavor if you like.

But hey, at the end of the day, people can set it up anyway they want if it suits them.

Greg.:)

 
Cool. Thanks, that is what I was thinking would be needed. Any ideas on the plug on top of the water pump or another location for the temp sending unit.
I know, by what you've already stated, that you are wanting to keep the factory sending unit (su) in place, just below the tstat neck, in the factory position, in the block.

If you install this secondary su into the threaded port next to the heater hose, on the water pump, this will read the combined coolant temp from three locations...the return from the radiator (cooled, when tstat is open), the return from the heater core (somewhat cooled, when heat is in on position) and the return via the bypass orifice during warm up of your engine. All three return coolant to the front of the water pump.

As the engine is warming up, your tstat is closed and the bypass orifice is open, sending the engine temperature coolant directly past your su. Your sending unit will get an accurate reading during this warmup time period.

When the engine is warmed up to your tstat temp (tstat open and bypass orifice closed) and the heat is "off" the coolant flow returning to the water pump (where your su would be located) will only come from the coolant which has just been cooled by passing through the radiator, therefore your reading will not reflect engine temperature. It will give you a low reading.

Thermostats open gradually/slowly over a 10°± temp range, while this is occurring (not totally open or totally closed) your su reading will be a mixture of both...get the picture? So the answer is "No," that would not be a good location to install your secondary su.




I had a similar dilemma with 2 oil pressure su's and 3 temperature su's. (mechanical aftermarket gauges, warning lights for both and a 3rd su for the electric radiator fans. Here's a few pics of the modification we made to the tstat housing. The temp warning light sender and the electric fan temp sender were installed into threaded bungs we welded to the tstat housing. The temp gauge su brass bushing is shown in the 3rd pic, in the factory su location, after the plug was removed. (su was installed a few minutes later) They all work perfect. You would need one bung for your aftermarket temp gauge.

http://www.amazon.com/NPT-Threaded-Stainless-Steel-Bung/dp/B00IAEW5UG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

20150707_092406.jpg

20150707_092417.jpg

20150707_121235.jpg

 
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