Shock Absorbers

[Twins]

First of many questions I'm sure. My 73 Q code Mach 1 has air shocks in the rear. The last time I dealt with these kind of shocks was on a 68 Mustang I owned in high school! It's been a while since then.

I called the original owner (on the 73) who had no real explanation as to why he went that route. He says the leaf springs were replaced. People who have looked at the car seemed to be pretty negative on air shock. I assume that this is because they probably make for a harsher ride and I would imagine they could fail if the air bladder goes? Should I replace these with conventional shocks? They are certainly inexpensive enough. If I go conventional which brand is best suited for this car and is this a change I can do in my driveway? I don't have access to a lift but can get the car up a bit on ramps - but I am assuming I need to support the rear axle? I would prefer not to have the car land on my chest. Are the top of the shocks accessed from inside the car?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Luke]

I hate air shock that's my personal opinion. The first car I owned had air shocks they leaked and where just generally crap. Is the car going to be a cruiser or are you going to sent it fast around bends or hammer the strip as your end purpose my influence the kind of shock you need.

 

[Twins]

I hate air shock that's my personal opinion. The first car I owned had air shocks they leaked and where just generally crap. Is the car going to be a cruiser or are you going to sent it fast around bends or hammer the strip as your end purpose my influence the kind of shock you need.

On my 68 they worked ok for several years but I have seen posts on this forum that these shocks can even damage floor pans. Hopefully, that has not happened to my car yet. I should have mentioned. This is just a cruiser. Trying to keep it stock as possible and we don't have too many interesting roads with curves around here anyway!

I hate air shock that's my personal opinion. The first car I owned had air shocks they leaked and where just generally crap. Is the car going to be a cruiser or are you going to sent it fast around bends or hammer the strip as your end purpose my influence the kind of shock you need.

On my 68 they worked ok for several years but I have seen posts on this forum that these shocks can even damage floor pans. Hopefully, that has not happened to my car yet. I should have mentioned. This is just a cruiser. Trying to keep it stock as possible and we don't have too many interesting roads with curves around here anyway!

 

[jbojo]

I had air shocks on my 73 but they are long gone. The mounting point on the body was not designed for the stress of those shocks when you use them to force the rear up. Besides that they would leak and I'd have to fill them all the time. If you plan it as a daily driver and have no clearance problems with the car sitting too low the I think any gas filled shock would be ok. If you need more height then new leaf springs might be needed or shackles with a little extra lift.

As far as installation a pair of jack stands on the rear is all that is needed. Depending on the back seat, folding or standard the top of the shocks are accessed from inside of the car. If you have the fold down seat it's under the last panel. Not sure about the fixed seat model but I am guessing that you have to remove the seat back.

Good luck.

 

[c9zx]

Any of the KYB shocks work fine for an inexpensive non-adjustable shock. I've used 3 or 4 sets of Gas Adjusts on restoration projects and they have worked fine. Some people prefer the GR-2s. I'd suggest using a floor jack AND jack stands rather than backing onto ramps. Do one side at a time, leave the wheel on and use the floor jack as a back-up safety item. The top of the shock is accessed from the trunk, remove two oval shaped plastic plugs. This tool is used to hold the shock while the nut is tightened. Other tools can be used, this just makes the job a little easier without resorting to using vise grips. K-D part number 465. Good luck and be safe. Chuck

 

[Mister 4x4]

Mine had what was left of its air shocks (the shocks themselves, and the broken tubing leading to them). The air shocks must've been cranked up too hard, since the previous owners tried to 'fix' the ruined upper mounts by forcing some 3/16" flat stock into the ruined holes to take even more damage.

The damage I discovered warranted replacing the shock cross-member... which are not reproduced. Going on the advice of QCode351Mach (Scott), I sectioned a replacement crossmember from a '69-'70 model - so now I have upper shock mount pockets again.

Swapping shocks is pretty easy - just as Chuck outlined. And yes, for the fixed seat cars, it'll be easier to remove the rear seat back and work through that area [than squeezing into the trunk and under the package tray].

Good luck!

 

[c9zx]

Good tip Eric! I sometimes forget that not everyone is "trunk sized" as I am. Chuck

 

[Twins]

Thanks everyone. Please keep the advice coming.

I am not completely inept but this would be my first time dealing with shocks and more to the point, anything mechanical on this car!

My concern is exactly what a few of you mentioned. I cant help wondering if the PO used the air shocks to compensate for some short coming like bad leaf springs. Of course, if that is the case, I can attempt that install as well next. Only one way to really find out. If that is the worst thing I have to do on this car I am lucky.

I am more concerned about any possible damage to the mounting points which will make things a bit more complicated. Especially up top like one of you found on your car.

I like the stance of the car now but it is probably incorrect. My car is pretty much level in the front and back.

I suppose I can start by letting whatever air is in the shocks out to see if the car sags terribly and that might give us a clue as to the condition of the leaf springs?

Also, I don't mind spending some money on the suspension as shocks are relatively in expensive in the scheme of things so whatever you think will give the car the best ride and support in everyday street use I will go for.

I have the fold down seat so it sounds like I have to take off interior panels on both sides. Also sounds like the hardest part is getting the car lifted right and then, barring any problems removing the old hardware everything should bolt right up. I do want to get those old shocks out sooner rather than later although right now they don't seem to be leaking.

Any of the KYB shocks work fine for an inexpensive non-adjustable shock. I've used 3 or 4 sets of Gas Adjusts on restoration projects and they have worked fine. Some people prefer the GR-2s. I'd suggest using a floor jack AND jack stands rather than backing onto ramps. Do one side at a time, leave the wheel on and use the floor jack as a back-up safety item. The top of the shock is accessed from the trunk, remove two oval shaped plastic plugs. This tool is used to hold the shock while the nut is tightened. Other tools can be used, this just makes the job a little easier without resorting to using vise grips. K-D part number 465. Good luck and be safe. Chuck

You know I was already reaching for those vise grips.

 

[c9zx]

Thanks everyone. Please keep the advice coming.

I am not completely inept but this would be my first time dealing with shocks and more to the point, anything mechanical on this car!

My concern is exactly what a few of you mentioned. I cant help wondering if the PO used the air shocks to compensate for some short coming like bad leaf springs. Of course, if that is the case, I can attempt that install as well next. Only one way to really find out. If that is the worst thing I have to do on this car I am lucky.

I am more concerned about any possible damage to the mounting points which will make things a bit more complicated. Especially up top like one of you found on your car.

I like the stance of the car now but it is probably incorrect. My car is pretty much level in the front and back.

I suppose I can start by letting whatever air is in the shocks out to see if the car sags terribly and that might give us a clue as to the condition of the leaf springs?

Also, I don't mind spending some money on the suspension as shocks are relatively in expensive in the scheme of things so whatever you think will give the car the best ride and support in everyday street use I will go for.

I have the fold down seat so it sounds like I have to take off interior panels on both sides. Also sounds like the hardest part is getting the car lifted right and then, barring any problems removing the old hardware everything should bolt right up. I do want to get those old shocks out sooner rather than later although right now they don't seem to be leaking.

Any of the KYB shocks work fine for an inexpensive non-adjustable shock. I've used 3 or 4 sets of Gas Adjusts on restoration projects and they have worked fine. Some people prefer the GR-2s. I'd suggest using a floor jack AND jack stands rather than backing onto ramps. Do one side at a time, leave the wheel on and use the floor jack as a back-up safety item. The top of the shock is accessed from the trunk, remove two oval shaped plastic plugs. This tool is used to hold the shock while the nut is tightened. Other tools can be used, this just makes the job a little easier without resorting to using vise grips. K-D part number 465. Good luck and be safe. Chuck

You know I was already reaching for those vise grips.

While vise grips have their uses, they seem to be mis-used often. As far as you reaching for them, I do have some "distant viewing" capability. Chuck

 

[droptop73]

Lose the airshocks, they can cause damage to the chassis structure.

I'm with Chuck on the KYB gasAjust. I love them, the ride is modern car firm.

 

[Twins]

Lose the airshocks, they can cause damage to the chassis structure.

I'm with Chuck on the KYB gasAjust. I love them, the ride is modern car firm.

Chuck you will be happy to know the 465 is on the way and the vise grips are locked up - for now.

Droptop - I am getting more concerned about what these air shocks might have already done. They have been in there for years. It may be why the last owner just left them in although he put in new front shocks. Might be some damage on the mounts. Guess I'll find out soon enough.

I'll go with your recommendation on the shocks. Modern firm is still probably softer than what is in there now.

Also, do I need any other hardware to get the install done or hopefully just reuse any bolts etc. unless I manage to muck them up?

 

[luxstang]

I've always used KYBs and loved them.

Here's a little trick that I wish I had known the first time I installed them: They stay compressed (short) Until you push them together. Then they will extend to their full length and you will have a hard time to get them installed.

Cut off the band that holds them tight, put the upper stud into the mounting hole on top, then compress them a little and as they extend make sure they go into the lower mounting hole.

It might be a good idea to support the car at the rear jack points under the rockers and let the rear axle hang freely. It gives you more room to work the shocks into place.

 

[Twins]

I've always used KYBs and loved them.

Here's a little trick that I wish I had known the first time I installed them: They stay compressed (short) Until you push them together. Then they will extend to their full length and you will have a hard time to get them installed.

Cut off the band that holds them tight, put the upper stud into the mounting hole on top, then compress them a little and as they extend make sure they go into the lower mounting hole.

It might be a good idea to support the car at the rear jack points under the rockers and let the rear axle hang freely. It gives you more room to work the shocks into place.

Thanks for the tip. The shocks are on order. Can anyone tell me - do I need any other parts like rubber bushings or washers - or are the shocks ready to go from the box? Cant wait to get to this. I am thinking that the car will drop quite a bit as most likely those air shocks are in there because the leaf springs aren't up to par. We shall see.

 

[c9zx]

New hardware and bushings come with the shocks. You should be good to go. Chuck

 

[Twins]

New hardware and bushings come with the shocks. You should be good to go. Chuck

Excellent. Looking forward to it. Do you know what is "normal" in terms of where the rear of the car should sit if the springs are stock and not worn out. Right now I have a pretty good gap (15 inch rims) between the tire and the fender lip and it is fairly even with the front. I think the back end should be lower? I'm just wondering how low is too low!

 

[Mister 4x4]

If you have a nice, level stance, count yourself lucky... and count the number of springs in the leaf spring pack. You probably have 5-spring packs, as the 4-spring packs tend to make our cars "tail draggers."

Also, shocks will not boost the height of the car (except for pressured-up air shocks, of course ). They're only there to dampen the bounces (one of the proper nomenclature is "suspension dampers.")

 

[Twins]

If you have a nice, level stance, count yourself lucky... and count the number of springs in the leaf spring pack. You probably have 5-spring packs, as the 4-spring packs tend to make our cars "tail draggers."

Also, shocks will not boost the height of the car (except for pressured-up air shocks, of course ). They're only there to dampen the bounces (one of the proper nomenclature is "suspension dampers.")

I have five I believe and also air shocks which I assume is raising the rear. I'm just wondering what will happen when I remove the air shocks. I think I should remove the air pressure now and see what happens

 

[Mister 4x4]

If the shocks are not pressured up (if you haven't checked or had to fill 'em, I would wager "not"), then the car won't drop any.

The 5-spring packs have a higher load rating, which results in a taller stance and firmer ride than the more common stock 4-spring packs. Most likely, whomever replaced the springs probably added the air shocks to get the old school raked look, and eventually realized they just could get better springs. Then replaced the springs then forgot about the air shocks - or, they realized they had to replace the springs when the air shocks quit holding air, and never replaced the air shocks themselves.

I would certainly think that anyone with the skills to replace the leaf springs wouldn't have been afraid to remove an air shock set-up... but you never know - they might've thought it was Original Equipment and more valuable or something.

 

[Twins]

If the shocks are not pressured up (if you haven't checked or had to fill 'em, I would wager "not"), then the car won't drop any.

The 5-spring packs have a higher load rating, which results in a taller stance and firmer ride than the more common stock 4-spring packs. Most likely, whomever replaced the springs probably added the air shocks to get the old school raked look, and eventually realized they just could get better springs. Then replaced the springs then forgot about the air shocks - or, they realized they had to replace the springs when the air shocks quit holding air, and never replaced the air shocks themselves.

I would certainly think that anyone with the skills to replace the leaf springs wouldn't have been afraid to remove an air shock set-up... but you never know - they might've thought it was Original Equipment and more valuable or something.

I agree. The last owner seemed surprised when I pointed out the air shocks even though they had done a decent amount of other work to the car - like new front shocks. I'm assuming their mechanic saw no need to remove the air shocks in the rear if they were working. He was not a specialist with these cars and probably figured to leave well enough alone. Let me get home and see how much (if any) air is in the bladders. The shocks don't look beat up and the bladder part does not look compressed. My leaf springs don't looked arched by the way if that is the proper term. They look kind of flat. I counted them quickly last night. Looked like four large sections and a fifth much smaller section of metal on top. I'll double check the number for what it is worth.

Thank you all again for all your patience and advice. Wait until I start asking you about the mysterious rear end clunk the car has developed (local tranny shop says transmission and u joints are fine - rear might have some excessive lash) and some help with tuning the carb.