Slip Yoke

[dawson357]

Hello All,
Need a little guidance on a correct slip yoke. I'm converting my 351C Grande from an FMX to a top loader and need to replace the slip yoke. (More fun shifting gears) I bought a bunch of parts for the conversion from a character in Jacksonville. A lot of the parts were useless or just plain no good - learned my lesson there. He did give me a slip yoke with 28 splines but it is only 6 5/8" in total length. I saw the chart that a member posted not too long ago that indicates a longer yoke than this one. The only 6" yoke noted was paired with a 6 cylinder. Just looking for someone who has done the same conversion and kept the FMX driveshaft. Here are a couple of pics of the one I have that shows the markings.

 

[GERMYS_72]

What yoke did you end up using ? I'm doing the same exact thing FMX to toploader

 

[rcadd1ct]

Unsure the quality but I found this.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d2zz-4841-a.html

You might try summit racing if you have spline count and other info

 

[Hemikiller]

The factory slip yoke would be a 28 spline for a 1310 u-joint. OD of the barrel will be 1.500. You can use a yoke for a C-4, T-5, AOD and 3 speed. For the cost of used, you're often better off getting a new yoke.

 

[GERMYS_72]

The factory slip yoke would be a 28 spline for a 1310 u-joint. OD of the barrel will be 1.500. You can use a yoke for a C-4, T-5, AOD and 3 speed. For the cost of used, you're often better off getting a new yoke.

This yolk on NPD uses bigger U joint (1330), is that too big for the factory driveshaft ?

https://www.npdlink.com/product/for...Yoke%2B&top_parent=200001&year=1972&year=1972

 

[Hemikiller]

You can use that yoke with a 1330/1310 conversion u-joint. Factory front u-joint is a 1310. The conversion joint is Spicer 5-134X.

 

[dawson357]

I used one from NPD. Part number 4841-4A. It's longer than the 4841-4B. The 4 speed I put in is a RUG-E1 from a 68 Mustang. I did have trouble getting it to push in all the way so that the U joint would clear the rear yoke. For some reason it would bind up about an inch before bottoming out. Had to force it on and then tap it back to seat the rear u-joint. I'll be replacing the rear end so should be fun getting the drive shaft back out.

 

[GERMYS_72]

I used one from NPD. Part number 4841-4A. It's longer than the 4841-4B. The 4 speed I put in is a RUG-E1 from a 68 Mustang. I did have trouble getting it to push in all the way so that the U joint would clear the rear yoke. For some reason it would bind up about an inch before bottoming out. Had to force it on and then tap it back to seat the rear u-joint. I'll be replacing the rear end so should be fun getting the drive shaft back out.

Thank you dawson for the response from me resurrecting your 2 year old unanswered thread. lol

I will see if I can find a cheap original used one for $50, and if no luck I might go for the NPD shorter one 6 inch instead of 8.

 

[dawson357]

Do you have a clutch pedal assembly and z-bar? If not, I have some that I refurbished.

 

[GERMYS_72]

Do you have a clutch pedal assembly and z-bar? If not, I have some that I refurbished.

Yes , I bought a 1972 stock pedal assembly from Colorado Mustang awhile back. Thanks for the offer, I'll keep that in mind if I run into any snags.

 

[Bill Perkins]

Thank you dawson for the response from me resurrecting your 2 year old unanswered thread. lol

I will see if I can find a cheap original used one for $50, and if no luck I might go for the NPD shorter one 6 inch instead of 8.

GERMYS_72, have you purchased a Yoke yet? I may have a used original one that would work for you.

 

[GERMYS_72]

GERMYS_72, have you purchased a Yoke yet? I may have a used original one that would work for you.

Bill, I haven't pulled the trigger yet. Feel free to message me the details, I'm interested.