Thank you all for the info i have sent pm to ohio mustangs. Thanks NigelAs noted, good condition Factory correct lug nuts are pretty much impossible to find. There are several brands of lug nut that are acceptable in appearance, but you can pick the vendor to purchase them from.
One thing you might want to address. The center caps are fastened with a mild steel Phillips head screw which does not play well with the forged aluminum wheel. Change them to stainless. I've always chased down the threads with a tap and then apply a bit of never seize to the threads. The cap in the picture appears to be a replacement from the original factory since one of the tabs is missing the screw hole. Factory had 5, replacements only have 3.
Hi DavidHere is picture of the Ford part # on the box for the nuts. They are difficult to find for sure. I have 4 sets of wheels, one set on car and three spares, and could use nuts to go with. Also the long locking nuts are gone also. You never know when you will need a spare. Back in the day you could buy at swap meet for $10.00 each because everyone wanted a wider wheel.
Be sure and measure your center hole and compare to your center lug on your axle and spindle. Ford made these to fit Mercury which had a larger hole diameter. If the wheel does not fit the spindle and axle hub the lug bolts will be doing the centering and holding up all the weight in shear. That is not good. You can make a sleeve if it is the Mercury wheels to close up the gap. The Maverick also used this wheel and had same center hole as Mustang along with the Comet. The big Mercury had the larger dia.
David
Those appear to be too short for the 73 aluminum slotted wheels.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcg-64000/overview/
These are the cats meow, and there tougher than cast iron and look fantastic.
I purchased those in 1998 and they have looked and worked perfectly ever since.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcg-64000/overview/
These are the cats meow, and there tougher than cast iron and look fantastic.
I do not think any lug nuts were ever cast iron too weak. They are usually 4140 alloy so you do not strip them out. When you do install the wheels always us a torque wrench to tighten and criss cross the pattern add a little WD-40. Go to like 60 Ft. Lbs. then to the recommended torque somewhere from 80 ft. lbs. to 105. This will prevent warping your disc brake rotors causing them to shake when applying brakes.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcg-64000/overview/
These are the cats meow, and there tougher than cast iron and look fantastic.
I had the same problem with shop air wrenching and over tightening the lugs to the point where even standing on a breaker bar would not loosen them, it took pounding it with an air wrench to get them off. Once I took my 2005 GT in to have a new set of rims and tires put on, when I got it home I went to take one of the tires off the car to see if I could get the lugs off, only to find that the knucklehead had air wrenched the locking lugs on! They were totally cracked and the minute I put the wrench to one of them with the lug key to loosen it, it just crumbled. Took it back to the shop and made them remove all four broken locking lugs, they damaged two rims in the process. Of course, they had to replace them and the lugs. Now I always insist they hand tighten lugs to spec.I do not think any lug nuts were ever cast iron too weak. They are usually 4140 alloy so you do not strip them out. When you do install the wheels always us a torque wrench to tighten and criss cross the pattern add a little WD-40. Go to like 60 Ft. Lbs. then to the recommended torque somewhere from 80 ft. lbs. to 105. This will prevent warping your disc brake rotors causing them to shake when applying brakes.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcg-64000/overview/
These are the cats meow, and there tougher than cast iron and look fantastic.
A friend called me from the Toyota dealership the other day and was in a panic. The dealer was doing the FREE tire rotation and came and told her that if she did not do brake job on the rear it was going to ruin her rotors. I ask if they were squeaking or grinding and she said no. So I told her to tell them to leave it alone. He came back and said if she did not do brake job for $225 now it might cost her $400 later. I told her to go by Auto Zone and get the pads and come over. I put on lift and when I went to take lugs loose I could not break them with a long 1/2" breaker bar. I got my big 1/2" drive torque wrench and could not tighten them farther at 150 ft. lbs. The spec for her Toyota was 79 ft. lbs. I had to jump on breaker bar to loosen them. Some were not as tight so they I think were trying to warp her discs to get business. I had never done brake job on this model but from start to finish less than 30 min. and replaced pads, wear plates, ground the ridge off the outside edge of the rotors and checked for warpage and added lube to wear points. I loosened and re torqued all nuts to correct torque and told her to call the owner of the Toyota dealer and tell him what I found. It cost less than $30 for the premium pads with the new wear plates. I did not use any power tools and first time in 30 Min. could do in 15 now. BTW there was still 3/16" of pad left and was not on the squeakers yet. Total rip off attempt.
Shops all too often try to rip people off especially this Toyota dealer. I know of several that have been taken. I use Discount Tire for tires and last thing they do is torque the nuts by hand with a torque wrench one reason I use them.
David
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