Slurry coating - not good for cars

[CZ-75]

So I decided to drive my 73 vert to work yesterday becaus ethe weather was going to be nice.

Everything was great until I pulled into our neighborhood. The city applied a slurry coating to the roads earlier in the day.... a combination of a thin coat of tar-like asphalt and sand... great for the roadway, I guess.

But, that crap sticks to your tires and gets thrown up all over the underside and on the rocker panels.

I had to drive slower than I could walk just so I didn't ruin the car. I could hear the surface of teh road sticking to the tires...

I went from a sick-feeling in my stomach to getting pissed off, back to sick feeling...

It will take several days before the combination of ambient heat and traffic wear get the roads back to normal.

 

[mdan575]

I hate that stuff nothing like the sound of the asphalt hitting you car as it comes off the tires. I know the feeling well.

 

[Don C]

Properly applied slurry seals, using the correct materials including the asphalt type and grade under the proper weather conditions (temperature & humidity are very important), shouldn't pick up on the tires. It may be soft for a few days, burn outs just dig groves in it. It serves several purposes, filling small cracks, rejuvenating the asphalt under it, and a new wearing surface. Using sand from crushed aggregates helps wet traction, also.

 

[Boss1Ray]

I worked paving construction many years ago. We applied Slurry Seal to roads and parking lots. If my memory serves me well I think we used diesel to clean the tools and equipment. But be careful - I think diesel is not good for rubber?? Might check that out. Another option might be to use mineral spirits or WD-40. WD-40 can be bought in larger containers than just the spray cans. I guess you need to experiment. You don't want to damage the undercoat if you have it applied.

from Answers.com:

"How do you remove slurry seal material from vehicles?

In: How-To [Edit categories]

Answer:

NAPA hand cleaner works the best. Just rub on your vehicle and it actually melts the material almost immediately. Then wash your vehicle as normal with car wash."

Good luck!

Ray

 

[Don C]

I've seen some major screw-ups over the years. The best way to remove any asphalt, and to keep from grinding the paint by rubbing it, is to spray on a solvent, let it set for a few minutes and then use a high pressure washer to get it off. While diesel does an excellent job of softening it, it's not environmentally friendly. WD-40 does work very well. Do not do this on an asphalt driveway/surface, or you will soften the surface, and wash some of it away.

 

[72HCODE]

that goof off decal remover is suppose to be able to remove road tar.

 

[OLE PONY]

What a bummer! I go to the extent to avoid puddles of water on the road when I take my vert out. Be careful with WD-40 on the paint. I had a 98 Mustang GT Convertible and I sprayed WD into the outside door lock and some ran down the paint. It left a discoloration, even after multiple washing and waxings. The GT was dark green in color.

 

[Mister 4x4]

After observing local road crews/companies, I'm convinced more than ever that these rednecks in West Texas have absolutely no clue how to build, manage, or maintain roads.

They 'build' a road, and it's junk again within about 18-24 months, so they 'repair' the cracks with what appears to be the 'slurry' mix you speak of (or maybe just straight-up asphalt patching compound). About a year after that, the put down a 'seal coat' (comprised of hot tar and gravel) which effectively does the same as the slurry coat, but also pitches gravel and rocks everywhere in addition to slinging the patching compound.

They also do this during the height of summer heat - which might help the hot tar seep into the cracks better, but the consequence is the loss of material sticking to cars, as well as the gravel itself becoming dislodged and tossed to the side of the road... so much for that. I literally alter my travel plans to avoid those newly 'seal-coated' areas for at least 2 weeks.

Growing up in SLC, Utah, I only recall the cracks in the roads requiring repair roughly every 8-10 years. There was a major road (6 lanes, plus center turning lane) outside of my neighborhood (13th East) that I cannot honestly remember EVER being torn down for major repair (between 1970-ish & 1986 when I joined the Air Force) aside from being widened sometime in the early '80s. When I visited in 2000, they had half of 1.5 miles torn down to the road bed (over 40 inches, due to frost line) one day. The next day (I had to drive by), it was completed, and the other half was torn down. On day three I drove by again (now I was just interested), and they were striping and placing reflectors. Simply awesome. ::thumb::

1 mile of a similar operation on a smaller road (4-lanes, no center turning lane) here in San Angelo took the local road company over 8 months. Ridiculous. :dodgy:

Sorry for taking the long way around, but I'm of the firm belief that it's become less about building quality and long-lasting roads, and more about job security and money.

 

[imusa76]

I have seen "Gunk bug and Tar remover", I have never used it.

I have an extra coat of wax so I can wash it off.

 

[MotoArts]

Take pictures.

Submit them to ODOT and have them pay for the cleanup.

Works to some extent here in PA, where it is currently Tar-and-Chip season

 

[marks73]

Or keep asking your neighbors to run errands for you until it's gone. :angel:

 

[Jim and Jutta]

I got some on mine, painter cleaner or polish wouldn't touch it, went to a local paint shop for advice, the guy said no problem, put some type of paint thinner on a rag and had it all off in about 15 minutes, didn't even charge me just asked me to keep them in mind for future paints issues on my cars. Can't even tell where he removed it from.

Jim