Staggered Shocks Conversion

[sm3570]

I did a search but came up snake eyes. How hard is it to convert to a staggered shock setup? I know the shock mounts on the body are different and have to be welded on. I'm assuming the brackets on the rear axle have to change. What else? Once the measurements are done, is the welding easy? Do you only have to change one side, or is the geometry different for both sides?

 

[Mister 4x4]

Everything I've seen, it's just the driver side that need the modification. Even the old school Lakewood traction bars on mine were set-up for staggered shocks (both mounting points for staggered or non-staggered).

I gotta wonder though: what's the big deal about staggered shocks, anyway? I should think with a good set of traction bars that staggered shocks would really kind of be unnecessary.

 

[sm3570]

Everything I've seen, it's just the driver side that need the modification. Even the old school Lakewood traction bars on mine were set-up for staggered shocks (both mounting points for staggered or non-staggered).

I gotta wonder though: what's the big deal about staggered shocks, anyway? I should think with a good set of traction bars that staggered shocks would really kind of be unnecessary.

You know more about it than I do! I thought it had something to do with axle tramp, but I figured if guys with the staggered setup are still getting Cal-Tracs or Lakewood style traction bars, then I don't know!

 

[Mister 4x4]

Yeah, it's supposed to help immensely with axle-wrap, but like I said, traction bars will do as much or even more to combat that. The old 'slapper bars' (like my old school Lakewoods) will allow just a little bit of wrap, but once the bumpers engage the underside of the leaf springs, that's the end of that. The weld-in bars (like the Shelby Under-ride style, where the leading end of the bars actually weld to the torque boxes) act more like a two-link addition to the rear axle than anything, and wrap is pretty much non-existent.

I'm still not sure about staggered shocks, unless someone just doesn't want traction bars at all. And even then if it's for better performance, then why not toss on some traction bars. The aftermarket two/three/four link set-ups typically don't use a staggered shock set-up after all.

Having said all that, I'm no expert on this by any means. I just know a little bit about it and what makes sense to me. I'll be interested to hear what others have to say.

 

[cobra3073]

Production (and after market) suspension technology has come a LONG ways since the time that our Mustangs were built.

It is my understanding that the staggered shocks were designed (at the time) to help control axle wrap-up. There are a LOT better options available today so unless you are a "purist" or trying to build a perfect clone, it probably would not be "cost effective" to add staggered shocks.

...my $.02.

 

[Totalled]

Spend the time/money and caltacs instead. Besides, it makes it harder to do exhaust.

 

[sm3570]

Roger that, thank you gentlemen!

 

[cudak888]

You'd have to weld a staggered shock mount (not reproduced) under your trunk floor, and punch out the shock access hole. HOWEVER, the mount is also spot welded to the frame rail with an upward facing lip which is not accessible from under the car:

Either you'd have to bend the mount 180 degrees (and hope it works), weld it on at an angle, or cut open the trunk floor and close it again.

Not worth the effort.

-Kurt

 

[sm3570]

Caltracs it is. Thanks for the explanation, Kurt.

 

[ramair]

A adjustable pinion snubber will do the same thing as traction bars or staggered rear shocks. It just keeps the rearend from rolling upward under torque and wrapping up the springs.

 

[cazsper]

How about a torque arm like you see available on the newer mustangs?