Starting car

[JJHStang]

Trouble starting My 71 mach1, 351 Windsor with Summit 4 bbl carb.
As I have mentioned in previous posts I don’t know to much about the engine other than what I have it had done to it.
The new carb, new value covers, new plugs and wires, new electrical connection to choke. New exhaust system, single exhaust too double. New vacuum advance.

Once I get it started and drive it the next day it starts right up. If it sits a week and I go to start it it is hard. I pump it once then half while turning the key. It turns over and over but doesn’t start. I then pump it a few times while turning the key. I think it is going to start but then stops. So I get frustrated and start pumping and pumping and it finally starts. Almost flooded and low battery.

Any suggestions on starting. I have looked at my choke before trying an it is shut.

 

[Hemikiller]

Sounds like the fuel is evaporating from the bowls when the car sits for any length of time. Try cranking the car for 5 or 10 seconds, then set the choke, pump a couple times and hit the key. It'll take a few turns of the crank to get the pump moving fuel.

 

[JJHStang]

Thank you I will give it a try.
It must be what I need to try because someone else gave almost the same advice.

 

[mrgmhale]

When our 69 Shelby GTG500 sits for a while the front fuel bowl goes dry. I suspect it is due a leaking power valve that drains the bowl, but I have not pulled the carb off to see. What I do is use a LITTLE squirt of engine starter from a spray can (available at any parts store). When I say a LITTLE, I do mean a LITTLE - just a quick blast. The spray is made of Petroleum Ether, and it is extremely volatile. You do not want to be smoking or have any potential ignition sources near you when using it. Just a quick blast into the venturis when the air cleaner lid it off. If the engine fires right up it is possible there is enough of the spray to let the fuel pump fill the fuel bowl of the carburetor, and you may find the engine will run fine with no more need to repeat the spray and start. Or, if you were a little too cautious (because I scared you) with the amount you sprayed, the starter spray "prime" may burn off before the carb fuel bowl is filled enough to keep the car running.

It is better to use too little than too much engine starter fluid. I have heard stories anout folks blowing the heads off engines (diesel) when too much is used. This is one of the better YouTube links I have found.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BijXaMbqGN4


But, even he seems to use a bit more spray than he really needed. Most videos I have seen shows folks spraying 3 seconds per side of the carb venturis, this guy used 3 seconds for both together. I think he sprayed about twice as long as he might have needed. I think I am going to make a YouTube video of my own to show this because most of the videos I have seen are overusing the spray, in my opinion. I prefer to use too little, and increase the amount if needed. The reason is because the ether in the spray acts as a solvent and can cause the protective oil sheen on the cylinders to get washed out, allowing for inadequate lubrication in the engine. Also, if it is grossly overused you can do major damage to the engine (bent connecting rod, cracked or broken pistons, blown head gasket, damaged head, damaged bearings etc.). That said, used judiciously it is a fine way to get fuel pumped back into the carburetor, assuming the fuel pump is working properly and there are not any other problems causing fuel starvation.

Once you do get the engine started, it is not a bad idea to get the fuel problem corrected that is causing your fuel bowl to drain out. I mentioned above the power valve (if you have one in your carburetor) may cause a problem if it is leaking enough to let the fuel bowl just drain into the intake manifold when the engine is not running. Not only is it not good for liquid fuel to go into the intake manifold (washes oil off the cylinder walls), a power valve that is leaking enough causes the engine to run too rich, can cause spark plug fouling, poor performance, and excessive fuel consumption. If you do not have a power valve in your carb look for external fuel leaks from the carb, or do both a pressure and volume test with your fuel pump - and check the fuel filter to make certain it is not plugged (blow through it, and significant resistance means it is pugged or plugging up). I doubt the fuel in the bowl can just fully evaporate away within a week of non-use, but I have seen some strange things also.

 

[JJHStang]

Thanks but I will stay away from the spray. Will try the cranking the 5 to 10 seconds first.

 

[lectricegg]

I had an old mechanic tell me to use carb cleaner spray, like Gumout. It has a component designed to burn and will start most engines, without the damage that starting spray can cause. I have started small engines with it, but have not tried it on car engines.

 

[jomar1957]

I use a small squirt bottle filled with gas and squirt it down in the bowl vent tube that fills up the bowl then hit the gas pedal afew times and starts right up with minimal motor cranking

 

[Stanglover]

My start procedure was mentioned in the thread "what did you do to your car today" just the other day, Monday I think it was.
I bump crank the motor with the HT lead disconnected and grounded. This is to just get the pistons moving slowly at first. Then I crank a little more to get some oil moving. Then reconnect the HT lead, poor a little gas, I use a small funnel, down the vent tube on the Holley 670, press gas pedal to set the choke and "go for ignition" as I said. NEVER run at high rpm's until the engine has warmed up, just let it idle until then. Cold oil and high rpm's is a recipe for disaster.