dohcsvt
Member
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2013
- Messages
- 20
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- Suffolk, Va
- My Car
- !973 Mach 1. White w/black stripes. Originally 3512V, now a ford racing parts 460 crate engine.
My 73 Mach won’t crank. Back ground info. Solenoid went bad, I... like a knuckle head misdiagnosed it as a bad ignition switch. Replace the ignition itch and it won’t start (1 week ago). Head down to oreillys and get a solenoid. Put it in, car starts, but it constant 12 volts at I terminal (bad solenoid). Pull that solenoid off yesterday and go get a warranty replacement and all is good car starts, no constant 12 volts at I terminal.
I start rewiring the rats nest that was my aftermarket gages and then want to check and make sure they work and the car won’t crank...GRRRR! Jump the solenoid and the car cranks fine. Take voltage reading at the S terminal and no 12 volts when trying to crank...is my new ignition switch bad I ask myself? So I Disconnect the ignition switch and connect the one I recently replaced and same symptoms.
My question, is there something under the dash I may have messed with when I was working on my gages that may be causing this? I looked at the wiring diagram and it appears yellow wire from ignition switch straight to solenoid... nothing else in the circuit. Any insight?
I start rewiring the rats nest that was my aftermarket gages and then want to check and make sure they work and the car won’t crank...GRRRR! Jump the solenoid and the car cranks fine. Take voltage reading at the S terminal and no 12 volts when trying to crank...is my new ignition switch bad I ask myself? So I Disconnect the ignition switch and connect the one I recently replaced and same symptoms.
My question, is there something under the dash I may have messed with when I was working on my gages that may be causing this? I looked at the wiring diagram and it appears yellow wire from ignition switch straight to solenoid... nothing else in the circuit. Any insight?
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