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Digdugjake

Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2016
Messages
23
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0
Location
Unites States
My Car
1973 Mustang Grande
351 Cleveland 2 barrel 2 valve (for now)
All original
I parked my 73 about two weeks ago and went to start it up the next day to take it to work and it wouldnt start. I didnt worry about it because i didnt have time but when i got home from work i looked under the hood. I couldnt find anything wrong but thats just me. I went through the PO maintenance records and discovered that almost the entire ignition system was from the factory. I started gathering parts and replacing them one at a time. Ive replaced damn near everything and it still wont run. What am i missing?

Replaced parts:

Starter

Starter solenoid

Alternator

Positive and negative battery cables

Plugs

Wires

Coil

Ignition switch

Cap and rotor

Condensor

Points

Brand new distributor after point, condensor, cap, and rotor didnt work

 
With the key in the ON position do you have voltage at the + terminal of the coil?

When you look in the carb and move the accelerator cable, do you see gas come out of the discharge nozzle?

I'm assuming it turns over with the starter but will not start.

Chuck

 
With the key in the ON position do you have voltage at the + terminal of the coil?

When you look in the carb and move the accelerator cable, do you see gas come out of the discharge nozzle?

I'm assuming it turns over with the starter but will not start.

Chuck
I get 12v at the coil getting spark and fuel. IM assuming im getting compression because it is difficult to turn over by hand when finding TDC on cylinder one.

 
3 things are required for an operational engine to run: air, fuel, and spark. However, the air and fuel have to be in the correct quantities and the spark has to be properly synchronized.

My first guess is lack of fuel, assuming that you gapped the points (set dwell) correctly when you changed them, the spark plug wires were installed correctly in firing order, and the spark plugs have the correct gap. Did you check to make sure you have spark when cranking the engine?

After changing the distributor you will also have to make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 terminal when the number one piston is near top-dead-center of the compression stroke and that timing is correct.

 
3 things are required for an operational engine to run: air, fuel, and spark. However, the air and fuel have to be in the correct quantities and the spark has to be properly synchronized.

My first guess is lack of fuel, assuming that you gapped the points (set dwell) correctly when you changed them, the spark plug wires were installed correctly in firing order, and the spark plugs have the correct gap. Did you check to make sure you have spark when cranking the engine?

After changing the distributor you will also have to make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 terminal when the number one piston is near top-dead-center of the comjipression stroke and that timing is correct.
It gets fuel. Plug wires are correct. There is no spark coming from the coil. Could it be in backwards?

 
With the key in the ON position do you have voltage at the + terminal of the coil?

When you look in the carb and move the accelerator cable, do you see gas come out of the discharge nozzle?

I'm assuming it turns over with the starter but will not start.

Chuck
I get 12v at the coil getting spark and fuel. IM assuming im getting compression because it is difficult to turn over by hand when finding TDC on cylinder one.
You are getting consistent spark at the plugs or does it seem hit and miss?

 
With the key in the ON position do you have voltage at the + terminal of the coil?

When you look in the carb and move the accelerator cable, do you see gas come out of the discharge nozzle?

I'm assuming it turns over with the starter but will not start.

Chuck
I get 12v at the coil getting spark and fuel. IM assuming im getting compression because it is difficult to turn over by hand when finding TDC on cylinder one.
You are getting consistent spark at the plugs or does it seem hit
Havent checked every plug cylinder 1 is consistent with the old coil

 
3 things are required for an operational engine to run: air, fuel, and spark. However, the air and fuel have to be in the correct quantities and the spark has to be properly synchronized.

My first guess is lack of fuel, assuming that you gapped the points (set dwell) correctly when you changed them, the spark plug wires were installed correctly in firing order, and the spark plugs have the correct gap. Did you check to make sure you have spark when cranking the engine?

After changing the distributor you will also have to make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 terminal when the number one piston is near top-dead-center of the comjipression stroke and that timing is correct.
It gets fuel. Plug wires are correct. There is no spark coming from the coil. Could it be in backwards?
Pull the new coil wire from the cap and make sure the wire end was fully installed through the 90 degree boot.

 
Looks like I took too long to type my reply.

Pull a spark plug to make sure it's not wet with fuel (flooded). This time of the year requires proper operation of the choke.

Connect a timing light and make sure you're getting spark 6 - 10° BTDC on #1.

 
3 things are required for an operational engine to run: air, fuel, and spark. However, the air and fuel have to be in the correct quantities and the spark has to be properly synchronized.

My first guess is lack of fuel, assuming that you gapped the points (set dwell) correctly when you changed them, the spark plug wires were installed correctly in firing order, and the spark plugs have the correct gap. Did you check to make sure you have spark when cranking the engine?

After changing the distributor you will also have to make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 terminal when the number one piston is near top-dead-center of the comjipression stroke and that timing is correct.
It gets fuel. Plug wires are correct. There is no spark coming from the coil. Could it be in backwards?
Pull the new coil wire from the cap and make sure the wire end was fully installed through the 90 degree boot.
It is. I checked all of them.

 
Looks like I took too long to type my reply.

Pull a spark plug to make sure it's not wet with fuel (flooded). This time of the year requires proper operation of the choke.

Connect a timing light and make sure you're getting spark 6 - 10° BTDC on #1.
Spark plugs are all dry.

 
You get spark + fuel + air + compression. Is the ignition 180 degrees off perhaps?

Oh, and I missed the reply to this:

When you look in the carb and move the accelerator cable, do you see gas come out of the discharge nozzle?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Are the points opening and closing when you crank the engine?

Is the bare copper ground wire connected between the distributor housing and the breaker plate?

Is the wire from the distributor connected to the - side of the coil?

Check the distributor to coil wire for continuity.

If those are all OK and you still have no spark temporarily disconnect the condenser and then check for spark to rule out a shorted condenser.

 
Are the points opening and closing when you crank the engine?

Is the bare copper ground wire connected between the distributor housing and the breaker plate?

Is the wire from the distributor connected to the - side of the coil?

Check the distributor to coil wire for continuity.

If those are all OK and you still have no spark temporarily disconnect the condenser and then check for spark to rule out a shorted condenser.
Is the wire from the distributor supposed to be connected to the - side of the coil?

 
Yes, and the wire from the ignition switch goes to the + side. The points provide the ground (negative) portion of the coil primary circuit when they are closed.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
So i just bought a new accel 12v coil. Dies it need a full 12 volts to spark or can i use factory wiring?

 
If the primary resistance of the coil is 1.4 to 1.5 ohms it should work with the factory resistance wire. Go to the Holley website to see if they list the primary resistance.

 
If the primary resistance of the coil is 1.4 to 1.5 ohms it should work with the factory resistance wire. Go to the Holley website to see if they list the primary resistance.
The primary resistance they lost is 1.4 but when i textest it it reads 2.0.

 
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