Steering Column Removal

[scgamecock]

I have the column dropped inside.  

What else other than rag joint needs to unbolted, firewall?

How many bolts and access them from inside or under the hood?

Steering wheel need to be in a certain position?

Remove steering wheel or leave it on?

What else?

Thanks

Wade

 

[kcmash]

I have the column dropped inside.  

What else other than rag joint needs to unbolted, firewall?

How many bolts and access them from inside or under the hood?

Steering wheel need to be in a certain position?

Remove steering wheel or leave it on?

What else?

Thanks

Wade

Wade,

Probably remove the front seat if you have not already.

1) You said you dropped the column, so I assume you used the 2 bolts that thread upward on each side of the column.

2) There are 2 harnesses on the column that need to be unplugged, the turn signal switch harness and the Starter switch harness.  

3) There are 3 bolts that release the firewall plate from the firewalll.  They are interior access, then the plate comes out with the column.  Since yours is a manual transmission car, if I remember correctly, you will need to remove your clutch actuator rod too.  It goes from the connection on the pedal in a vertical direction through a boot on the column plate down to the z-bar on the engine bay side.

4) Release the rag joint coupler.  This is no easy task in my opinion.  Be sure to use penetrating oil soak to make sure it frees up some.  

Other than that, it takes patience and getting the correct leverage to pull the thing out.

Hope that helps!

kcmash

 

[scgamecock]

I have the column dropped inside.  

What else other than rag joint needs to unbolted, firewall?

How many bolts and access them from inside or under the hood?

Steering wheel need to be in a certain position?

Remove steering wheel or leave it on?

What else?

Thanks

Wade

Wade,

Probably remove the front seat if you have not already.Yep Done

1) You said you dropped the column, so I assume you used the 2 bolts that thread upward on each side of the column. Yep Done

2) There are 2 harnesses on the column that need to be unplugged, the turn signal switch harness and the Starter switch harness. Yep Done  

3) There are 3 bolts that release the firewall plate from the firewalll.  They are interior access, then the plate comes out with the column.  Since yours is a manual transmission car, if I remember correctly, you will need to remove your clutch actuator rod too.  It goes from the connection on the pedal in a vertical direction through a boot on the column plate down to the z-bar on the engine bay side.

4) Release the rag joint coupler.  This is no easy task in my opinion.  Be sure to use penetrating oil soak to make sure it frees up some.  

Other than that, it takes patience and getting the correct leverage to pull the thing out.

Hope that helps!

kcmash

Thanks!  Looks like I am almost there.  What about steering wheel?  Easier with it removed from the column?

Wade

 

[Stanglover]

Wade, exactly what kcmash outlined. I would add that the use of long socket extensions and perhaps a universal knuckle or wobbler extension, so you're not working scrunched up under the dash. I'm not sure if your motor is in or out, doable either way, just a lot harder with it in.

As yours is a manual, I definitely would buy a new CORRECT rubber seal. I say correct because there is only 1 seal for the 71-73's. Not the 67-73 that the vendor might try to sell you as they did me. When I installed my new seal, I made sure the base was completely clean as well as degreasing the seal itself with brake cleaner, then add a bead of RTV, making sure the bolt holes are lined up and clear. I, with my anal attitude, also added a bead around the outside of the opening on the firewall to make sure there was no water leaks after the column was back in. Don't forget, my engine was out so I had loads of room to play with it. I did find it a bi**h to get the bolts back on the 3 bottom nuts. Just take your time and don't loose it!!

Did you consider rebuilding the entire brake, clutch and linkage system while you're at it? Now is the perfect time to install (or have installed) bearings from Mustang Steve, on the clutch shaft as well as bronze oil-lite bushings on all other connections. It made a HUGE difference to the function of my clutch, which is a Centerforce II.

 There have been posts on this subject.

Not trying to make your life harder or more expensive, but!!!!!!

Keep us posted.

Geoff.

 

[Stanglover]

I have the column dropped inside.  

What else other than rag joint needs to unbolted, firewall?

How many bolts and access them from inside or under the hood?

Steering wheel need to be in a certain position?

Remove steering wheel or leave it on?

What else?

Thanks

Wade

Wade,

Probably remove the front seat if you have not already.Yep Done

1) You said you dropped the column, so I assume you used the 2 bolts that thread upward on each side of the column. Yep Done

2) There are 2 harnesses on the column that need to be unplugged, the turn signal switch harness and the Starter switch harness. Yep Done  

3) There are 3 bolts that release the firewall plate from the firewalll.  They are interior access, then the plate comes out with the column.  Since yours is a manual transmission car, if I remember correctly, you will need to remove your clutch actuator rod too.  It goes from the connection on the pedal in a vertical direction through a boot on the column plate down to the z-bar on the engine bay side.

4) Release the rag joint coupler.  This is no easy task in my opinion.  Be sure to use penetrating oil soak to make sure it frees up some.  

Other than that, it takes patience and getting the correct leverage to pull the thing out.

Hope that helps!

kcmash

Thanks!  Looks like I am almost there.  What about steering wheel?  Easier with it removed from the column?

Wade

 Leave it on, no need to remove it.......... unless you really want to! It would make a bit more room if you're a bigger guy.