Strut Rod bushing placement

[marks73]

I've got the Ford manual that shows a picture. Soon as I can get to my scanner I'll post it up. Have a PM into Rocketfoot to see if there is a way to post up the whole section (132m) we'll see. Meantime here is the page!

scan0002.pdf

 

[marks73]

Bump back to the top

 

[coupe351w]

Thanks All, Marks73 the Manual shows it. No metal on metal. Why would they make a kit like that? My call I guess.................

 

[Justin71]

I agree the page Marks73 manual "shows it" but what it shows is an inner and an out sleeve. That is the original configuraion, and the new bushing kits don't have inner and outer sleeves. They have one inner sleeve (a THICK one) and that "frame bushing".

I submit that you CANT install the new bushing kits per the old drawings. If you don't believe me, go back to page 1 of this thread, and look at the pic of the "busted bumper". It shows the thick sleeve, and the frame washer.

The real question originally asked is how to configure the new bushing replacement kits....

 

[TommyK]

I agree the page Marks73 manual "shows it" but what it shows is an inner and an out sleeve. That is the original configuraion, and the new bushing kits don't have inner and outer sleeves. They have one inner sleeve (a THICK one) and that "frame bushing".

I submit that you CANT install the new bushing kits per the old drawings. If you don't believe me, go back to page 1 of this thread, and look at the pic of the "busted bumper". It shows the thick sleeve, and the frame washer.

The real question originally asked is how to configure the new bushing replacement kits....

Exactly!

Follow the instructions provided with the replacement bushing kit because it ain't the same as the factory set up!

 

[rocket366]

BUMP

I used this thread as my research in changing out my SR Bushings.

Well.. I did one today. With dis and re assymbly with wire wheeling and painting

and putting the lower arm distance back where it was took me 4hrs.

I put the cupped locating washer of mystery on the wheel side of the frame which

seems to be where it belongs from photos but I think on the front side makes more sense?

There is about 1/2 inch of compression in the new rubber parts and hopefully

that is enough to keep that cup in the frame while braking.

The old rubber bushings were so wasted I could move them by hand to and fro this

has to be an improvement!

I'll change out the other side and post again IF there is a problem.

Thanks to all who made this thread.

Regards

Paul

 

[Omie01]

I ran into this issue also, The aftermarket poly set comes with the extra cup thingy, and a single piece inner sleeve. They did not come with ANY install instructions! I think they can be used as long as the poly doesn't crack and fall apart, but everything I hear says they will eventually fail before any extended service life. I went up to O'Rielly's and ordered a moog rubber set for $28.00, they came with install instructions right on the parts, and I found that the last set installed on my car 100 years ago was NOT installed correctly either. Now I have a nice new rubber set in my car and they seem to be correct. I saved the other set just in case some day I want to see if there is a performance difference, and maybe a little more info on their use and longevity. My 2 cents worth.

 

[rocket366]

Ouch

NOW we know what the cupped centering washer is for!

When your strut rod saws out the bushing hole the washer will

center it back in the proper location.

Must be a common issue.

Paul

 

[rocket366]

Yea so I changed out the SR bushings with Moog (HARD) rubber parts.

B4 I changed the bushings the car just floated over rough roads smoothly.

NOW the car is SLAMMING, RATTLING, JARRING over bumps on rough roads!

This is unacceptable.

I put in a lot of positive caster which helps a lot but research is telling me

that the steel curved cup arrangement may be wrong.

I did:

(0[frame]0) which is said to bind up the strut rod from articulating freely.

Recommended is:

)0[frame]0( for easy articulation of the SR.

I'm goin' in boys I've had enough of this HAMMERING down the road.

 

[Mikes73]

Yea so I changed out the SR bushings with Moog (HARD) rubber parts.

B4 I changed the bushings the car just floated over rough roads smoothly.

NOW the car is SLAMMING, RATTLING, JARRING over bumps on rough roads!

This is unacceptable.

I put in a lot of positive caster which helps a lot but research is telling me

that the steel curved cup arrangement may be wrong.

I did:

(0[frame]0) which is said to bind up the strut rod from articulating freely.

Recommended is:

)0[frame]0( for easy articulation of the SR.

I'm goin' in boys I've had enough of this HAMMERING down the road.

I installed mine like you showed in the second diagram. My switch to Moog bushings

made the ride much better than the poly bushings I had in it. Now the only thing I use polyurethane on is sway bar end links, this seems to work very well.

 

[Duncan Mach72]

While we are here, I would caution you that a few years ago I think two members of the MOCGB experienced strut rod failure because they had installed poly bushings set up (@I@) which restricted the rod movement causing the rod to fatigue at the end of the thread. They were lucky not to have serious accidents. I can't recall the conclusions exactly but all agreed on quality rubber, possibly (@I@( -- but maybe )@I@(--

Poly is good in a bushing that sees mainly rotation with little deflection. I have used them with great success on European Ford Capri & Sierra, the handling improvement was fantastic.

Ah, found a link:

http://www.mocgb.net/forums/showthread.php?41285-That-old-strut-rod-chestnut