The Rickster - a 73 Mach 1 work in progress

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I did go for it, and it's turned out surprisingly well. It was a slow process, but yes, it did keep me from losing my sanity after losing my sanity. My 12 yr old Eastwood welder is about worn out, now, but it served me well on this project. I need to adjust transmission linkage, redo trans cooler lines that are running a little closer to the headers than I would like, install the windshield and interior, but then it will be ready to see the road under it's own power for the first time in decades.

Getting so close, slowly, but surely.
It's turning out great! Nice work!
 
A couple weeks ago, a friend came over, and between the two of us, we were able to get the door and quarter windows aligned. With that task checked off the list, the interior can finally go in. Overall, I think it came out pretty well.

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Now, I need to get the new deluxe door panels installed. They're assembled and mocked into place, BUT... This car was made with standard door panels. The actuator mechanism needs to be modified to add a tab to move the handle downward about an inch.

I found a picture of the actuator with the tab in another post. I measured the actuator and the picture so I could use that ratio to determine the precise length of the tab and location of the new hole for the handle to attach to. I found that a tab 2.5" long by 7/8" wide would work.

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I like to use CAD (cardboard aided design) for these projects. I cut it out of cardboard and determined that it would probably work out okay, but wanted to double check, so grabbed a scrap piece of ABS plastic and cut it out for mock up. 20230404_122002.jpg

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It looked like the mocked up plastic tab worked really well, so I copied it onto some 1/8" that I found in the scrap barrel. The angle grinder allowed it to be cut out pretty quickly, with the hole drilled, and the slots cut for the tab on the actuator. I cut two slots on the edge of the lower portion and then clamped it in the vise and used a punch to bend over the tab that positions the deluxe handle.

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Now I just need to install the door panels and get a picture of the finished product.

Making progress, slowly, but surely.
 
So I've gotten to the point where I can install the door panels. I've gotten the tab to extend the door release completed so I need to get the door panel clips to line up. I got the plastic "cup" that the door latch release lined up, but it just lays there with nothing really holding it in place except a couple tabs and a couple pins. I was looking at the "1973 Mustang Part and Body Illustrations" page for the door panel, and it showed a bracket, 22664, that attaches to the underside of the pull handle, and then follows the backside of the door panel downward, and then bends back to secure the top of the "cup". I don't have that piece.

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I'm really anxious to get this project completed, and I have some scraps of 14 gauge steel around, so fabrication is in order. I started with CAD, and made my cardboard template.

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It was traced onto the sheet steel and then cut out with the angle grinder.

20230405_125527.jpgI had to do a little fitting, but got it sized and bent to match the cardboard template pretty well.

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I got the holes drilled to tie it to the door pull handle, and then matched it to the hole on the top of the "cup" and got it drilled as well. I like using nutserts so that I can use a machine screw, and that is the routeI took to attach the cup to the fabricated bracket.

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Each door panel was slightly different and I had to redo the template on each side. With both sides completed, the panels are finally ready for installation. I do have to determine where the screw that fastens the "cup" to the metal door frame goes, and I'll add a nutsert at that point on both sides. At that point, the doors will be completed, and the interior will be done.

One more step to getting the Rickster on the road. Slowly, but surely.
 
Dude, you are a true hot rodder. You remind me of my neighbor when I was a teen; he could make anything. He once helped me, at 14, to fix my 62 Corvair, by using a tin beer can part he made. It was before CAD, but as I remember, he was a Coors drinker, so Coors Aided Design? I am 2 or 3 years behind you in my restoration. You inspire me.
 
So I've gotten to the point where I can install the door panels. I've gotten the tab to extend the door release completed so I need to get the door panel clips to line up. I got the plastic "cup" that the door latch release lined up, but it just lays there with nothing really holding it in place except a couple tabs and a couple pins. I was looking at the "1973 Mustang Part and Body Illustrations" page for the door panel, and it showed a bracket, 22664, that attaches to the underside of the pull handle, and then follows the backside of the door panel downward, and then bends back to secure the top of the "cup". I don't have that piece.



I'm really anxious to get this project completed, and I have some scraps of 14 gauge steel around, so fabrication is in order. I started with CAD, and made my cardboard template.



It was traced onto the sheet steel and then cut out with the angle grinder.

I had to do a little fitting, but got it sized and bent to match the cardboard template pretty well.



I got the holes drilled to tie it to the door pull handle, and then matched it to the hole on the top of the "cup" and got it drilled as well. I like using nutserts so that I can use a machine screw, and that is the routeI took to attach the cup to the fabricated bracket.

View attachment 75473

Each door panel was slightly different and I had to redo the template on each side. With both sides completed, the panels are finally ready for installation. I do have to determine where the screw that fastens the "cup" to the metal door frame goes, and I'll add a nutsert at that point on both sides. At that point, the doors will be completed, and the interior will be done.

One more step to getting the Rickster on the road. Slowly, but surely.
Your fab'd 22664 piece is much more substantial than the original piece! Well done!
 
Today, I got the door panels installed for good. Kudos to MrGMHale and his YouTube video that provided so much useful info regarding the installation of the door panels. As promised, here are some pictures of the door panels and the door handles mounted with the adapters I fabbed up. 20230509_175454.jpg20230509_175526.jpg

Now I just need to get to get the horn button sorted out, and the windshield installed, and it should be ready for a test drive. Yes, there are a few other things to take care of, but I'm looking forward to that first test drive.

Making progress, slowly, but surely.
 
Well, a few days ago I got the horn button sorted out, but then I discovered that the parking lights and turn signals weren't working properly. I fussed with them for a couple days, without any hint of success. Today, I finally broke down and called Ron Francis, and they pointed me to a grounding issue. I found that the parking lamp sockets had a bent grounding tab and once straightened out, Everything works as it should.

Now I am just waiting on a friend to come over to help me install the windshield so I can take it on a test drive. Finally.
 
Last night my friend, Justin, came over and we got the windshield installed. The trim went on the windshield with no problem.
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I still haven't been able to get the trim on the rear window. I am about to the point of just gluing it on, and not let perfection get in the way of completion.

The Rickster has been running poorly the last few starts. I purchased a smoke generator to find exhaust vacuum leaks and after plugging the driver side tail pipe, filled the exhaust with the smoke under very slight (1 psi) pressure. It revealed an exhaust leak in the joint just behind the oxygen sensor. The Sniper's handheld says it's running really lean, and it just dumps fuel into the throttle body. It struck me last night, I bet all that fuel that it added trying to enrich what it thought was a lean condition fouled the O2 sensor. I'm going to check with Holley today, but may need a new O2 sensor to get it on the road. I'll also need to change the oil, again, since it is up over a quart from fuel dilution from failed starts.

Still, it's that much closer to being on the road. It's exciting to think that in the next few days, it will move under its own power for the first time in over 25 years (and maybe more than that). But it's getting there. Slowly, but surely.
 
What's the issue with the rear window trim?
I am having a fit trying to get it to seat in the clips. I've pulled the rear window out and reinstalled it without the 1/8" foam seal, and purchased new trim clips but I still can't get the trim to snap into many of the clips. It's driving me nuts, and I stalling out the project. I've got a tube of window weld, and while I don't like the idea of gluing the trim, I may resort to that, just to get that finally taken care of. I still have to get the motor running reliably and oil change, but other than that, the list of things to do for it is very short. Rear view mirror/back up camera; install bumper guards on the rear; redo windshield washer tube to passenger side; level front bumper (slightly off level); make lower bracket for retractable antenna, and then right side graphic stripe after paint guy fixes a small boo-boo along the bottom of the passenger door. To be honest, that is all I can think of that needs to be done. Just need the motor to run reliably.
 
I am having a fit trying to get it to seat in the clips. I've pulled the rear window out and reinstalled it without the 1/8" foam seal, and purchased new trim clips but I still can't get the trim to snap into many of the clips. It's driving me nuts, and I stalling out the project. I've got a tube of window weld, and while I don't like the idea of gluing the trim, I may resort to that, just to get that finally taken care of. I still have to get the motor running reliably and oil change, but other than that, the list of things to do for it is very short. Rear view mirror/back up camera; install bumper guards on the rear; redo windshield washer tube to passenger side; level front bumper (slightly off level); make lower bracket for retractable antenna, and then right side graphic stripe after paint guy fixes a small boo-boo along the bottom of the passenger door. To be honest, that is all I can think of that needs to be done. Just need the motor to run reliably.
I seem to remember @Trevynd having some difficulty with his rear window trim but was able to resolve it. May have been the retaining clip size. Maybe he'll chime in and share what he did.
 
Several folks have had this problem with clips. IIRC, there are 2 versions. Maybe West Coast Cougar Classics document which work best for which years; NPD may list both versions.
 
On you O2 sensor. Pull it out and wipe it down with starter fluid or gas to clean the carbon from it. Let dry and then with it still out of the exhaust spray a rag with starter fluid or you can use gas and wrap it around the sensor and turn your ignition to the on position. You should read a rich mixture if the sensor is working ok.
 
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