Thoughts on this 429? I'm considering it.

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I have the Marti report and photos of the restoration the current owner has in my computer at home.  It says it should be light pewter.  Personally I like the red ones, so color doesn’t bother me.  I just want to know it is the real deal.  He claims it’s the original drive train, and the original car.  
 

that’s an interesting tidbit about the fasten seat belt light.  I know my Moms 71 convertible has a belts light on the drivers side.  Belts and something else, two little red lights that fall off all the time.

 
with the 3:50 conventional rear end, will only one tire spin  when it loses traction?  It’s not a traction lock rear end is it?

 
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it was not a traction lock differential, from the factory.  And yes,  it'll quickly burn the rubber off the right rear tire, unless a previous owner added some form of locking differential.

 
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The deluxe seat belt option (standard on the verts) included the seat belt warning lamp on the left lower side of the dash board. To avoid redundancy, the left side lamp was eliminated when the federally mandated light/buzzer went into production on the Mustang line 12/1/71. The other lamp you referenced is a park brake warning lamp which was part of the convenience group option. It included trunk, glove compartment, map, under hood lamps, head light on warning buzzer, automatic seat back release, under instrument panel courtesy lamps (standard on vert), park brake warning lamp, and glove box lock. Even in 2020 dollars, this option at $51.00 was an absolute bargain!   

As posted by Don C, the red Hemmings Mach 1 was not equipped with a locking differential. The Marti report would of shown Axle, Traction Lok if so equipped. Strange that the car was a retail/special order but the customer did not order traction lok considering  the torque the  429 was rated at. Until I added a locking differential to my 71 M code Mach 1, I could ruin the right rear tire in one night!

Also need to correct my earlier post on the certification label. I did not pay attention to the 12/70 build date. During November '70 production the label was changed to remove the Made in USA and "Not For Title or Registration" and Manufactured changed to "MFG". This was done to avoid the need for different labels for Canadian built vehicles across the entire product line. 

 
That white car is pitiful as being called a restoration. They did not even take the car apart to pain. Screws in door latches painted. Nothing under hood detailed correct. Wrong door speaker grills. There is more wrong on the car than right.It would cost over $60,000 additional to make it much closer and even then it would only be worth about $70,000 at best. Remember one of our members bought a 429 off ebay for $27,500 that was way more rare model. 
To restore any of our cars to concourse will cost way more than they will ever sell for. Correct parts and labor just make it impossible today. 

 
To clarify again... the eBay $27500 car price is not to be mistaken as the selling price for all future 71 J Code car’s... That sale was a blip, it happens. Their was uncertainty with the overall condition of the car, because, I had my finger on the button to buy it as the auction was coming to a close. I decided against it because I just was not convinced at the time.   
 

These cars in very good restored or original condition will bring appropriate top $$, just like the B1’s. My opinion...

Yes... it will cost a bundle to restore a J or C Code to a high level. It’s worse for those of us outside the Continental USA. I spent $1000’s just on the $ conversion and shipping costs for parts. Probably added 10% to the total cost of my restoration. 
 

If you go into this hobby to make money, try again... If you know you will have to spend money to enjoy your hobby, to enjoy the personal accolades for a job well done, to know that “you did it”... priceless. It’s not always about the money. You spend what you can afford and not a penny more. No harm done. 
 

At the end of the day, if I am going to invest $60k+ on a 71-3; it absolutely needs to be a solid #2 minimum to a #1 condition car. You need to complete your due diligence and buy the right car for the $$’s.

 
Is there anyone nearby that can check this red car out?  
 

it’s in Jefferson, Iowa.  

 
Is there anyone nearby that can check this red car out?  
 

it’s in Jefferson, Iowa.  
IF you can find someone who know what they're looking at, fine, if not "Road Trip". It will be worth it for you to see it in person, believe me.

I flew to LA from Canada (well Detroit actually) to personally see the one I bought in 08. It proved to be a great weekend away as well as confirming the car was as the seller claimed. Although in my case, I could have just had the seller ship it. The car was actually better than he described and I bet that doesn't happen too often.

So, if you're serious about this car, go see it for yourself and have a fun weekend no matter how it turns out.

 
If I do,  what and where exactly am I looking to verify it is what it should be.  I am aware of the vin number and fender tag.  Where on the engine, trans, reared and body etc.  am I looking for numbers?

 
As 7173Vert posted, you should perform due diligence before buying one of these premium-priced collector cars. No matter if a Ford, GM, or Mopar fan, everyone knows someone who has been smoked over a bad deal. Scam deals where the car never existed or a car advertised as a one of a kind Boss 429 that started life as a 6cyl car. The snake-oil selling, white shoe wearing con artists are out in full force. They know that the generation that grew up with these cars in the '70s now have the income to purchase these dream cars and will make emotional purchases. Wise people such as yourself will join forums dedicated to your favorite flavor vehicle. Lots of experience and knowledge on this Forum so hopefully, we can help you spend some (lots) of your children's inheritance!

One of the first areas most people check is the door certification label. It is a good source for Vin, body, trim, and power train content. But you now have to watch out for "Massaged" labels. They are now much easier to obtain than in previous years, so it's now possible to have a label printed to match whatever you want the car to be.

The dashboard Vin plate is another source. The 68-70 Mustangs are riveted to body sheet metal at the windshield. Unfortunately, the 71-73 plate is riveted to the removable finish panel the padded dash attaches to. A lot of people unknowingly pitched both pieces when obtaining a padded dash from a salvage yard.  Another caution area.

There is a thin metal tag (Buck Tag) that was fastened to the front of the radiator support on the passenger side of '71 Mustangs. It was a tool used by assembly line personnel that had codes they used to verify components as they were installed. Most importantly it had the complete vehicle Vin. The problem with these is they were very thin and easily damaged. Many were thrown away with damaged sheet metal if the vehicle was ever in a collision. Many were damaged when they were caught on a mechanics tools or arm. They only piece of mine left is the upper portion and the screw that held it in place. Hopefully, this almost 50-year old piece is still on the car.

These next options are a little harder to check. As you already know, there are partial Vins on the upper part of the L&R apron sheet metal under the fenders. Unless there is replacement sheet metal in that area or a re-body the first two and last six of the Vin should match other Vins on the car. There is a similar Vin stamped in the driver side rear of the engine block right below where the head mates to the block. Luck of the draw here. Some are stamped so lightly you can hardly read them out of the vehicle, some so plain you can read them from a distance. The 4speed top loader is also marked with the same partial Vin. The upper part of the case flange where it bolts to the bell housing is where it is located. If a contortionist with a good light, mirrors, and possibly a lift, you might be able to see these numbers. The illustrations show the buck tag, the partial eng block vin, and the 4sp case partial vin.

Hope this gives you some useful info. We're trying our best to help you spend some money!!   :biggrin:

buck tag-71.jpgpartial-block-vin.jpgvin-4sp.jpg

 
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Anyone interested in a Japanese Export J code?  Wimbleton White Black Interior and loaded.  Have a J code 4 spd coupe also.  I am getting ready to retire.

Thanks

 
Anyone interested in a Japanese Export J code?  Wimbleton White Black Interior and loaded.  Have a J code 4 spd coupe also.  I am getting ready to retire.

Thanks
Am interested in the 429 Coupe.    What color is your convertible?  Mine is red with a red interior.    Any chance you have a Maroon 429 also?

71 Conv 429.png

 
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