Toploader Seals

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GB 71

Active member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Pennsylvania
My Car
1971 Mach 1
351 C
M Code
Hi,

I have a 71 fastback with a Rug AV1 toploader and for the past year I have been working on anything and everything but the trans. It's just about ready for paint and Today I decided to change the gear oil and at first only about a quart or so came out and I don't know the history of the vehicle so once I put the new oil in and it seemed to take a little over 2 quarts. Started the car and shifted through the gears and seemed good. So took it on its first road test in many years. I drove it a few blocks and coming back to my drive way I noticed a 1/4" line going up the driveway about 200 feet. Also noticed once I got out of the drive way the line was a 1/2" wide, I assume the seals are bad on each end of the splines.?

Now for my question - as I never removed a manual transmission. My first step is to remove the driveshaft at the rear. Then support the trans and remove the support bracket and then? Do I have to mess the Bellhousing ? Clutch Fork?

Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks

George

 
Remove driveshaft, disconnect the speedometer cable, support the transmission, remove the transmission mount/cross member, remove the transmission to bellhousing bolts or nuts, pull the transmission to the rear until the input shaft is clear, lower the transmission.

Depending on the mileage on the clutch, now is a good time to replace it. I would replace the throwout bearing, regardless of miles on it.

 
Hi,

I have a 71 fastback with a Rug AV1 toploader and for the past year I have been working on anything and everything but the trans. It's just about ready for paint and Today I decided to change the gear oil and at first only about a quart or so came out and I don't know the history of the vehicle so once I put the new oil in and it seemed to take a little over 2 quarts. Started the car and shifted through the gears and seemed good. So took it on its first road test in many years. I drove it a few blocks and coming back to my drive way I noticed a 1/4" line going up the driveway about 200 feet. Also noticed once I got out of the drive way the line was a 1/2" wide, I assume the seals are bad on each end of the splines.?

Now for my question - as I never removed a manual transmission. My first step is to remove the driveshaft at the rear. Then support the trans and remove the support bracket and then? Do I have to mess the Bellhousing ? Clutch Fork?

Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks

George
You do NOT need to do anything with the bell housing/clutch/fork/ etc. You do need to remove the shifter handle if it is an original 4-speed shifter, or if it is an aftermarket you may need to remove the entire shifter before removing the tranny.

Driveshaft, Speedo cable, Reverse light switch wiring, shifter. Then it's down to 4 bolts at the bell housing and removing the crossmamber. ( Unless you have exhaust in the way.

kcmash

 
In addition to all the good information from DonC, I always drain the oil from the transmission before removing the drive shaft to eliminate that mess. I bought a cheap transmission jack from Harbor Freight and it works well, but you will have to raise the car alot for the extra height. Twenty years ago I didn't need the jack, but somehow the transmission got a lot heavier. When removing the shifter I always put tape on the linkage adjustment threads and remove the arms from the transmission so it will go back in exactly like it was. This is also a good time to clean and lube the shifter. Sometimes the exhaust pipes get in the way and have to be messed with to get enough room to slide transmission back far enough. Remember to remove the wiring and or switch for the backup lights.

 
Thanks for the fast replies and I have to say that this site is without a doubt the most informative with all aspects of 71-73 stands. I could have never been where I am on my restoration without this site. I certainly learn something new everyday that I browse the postings from present to past posts.

Thanks

George

 
Just a suggestion. Since you have the transmission out if it was me I would pull the bell housing and check the condition of the clutch disc and pressure plate. You will probably have to drop the exhaust to lover the back of the engine to get the upper bolts out. Don't tilt engine to far back mess up motor mounts or get fan into the radiator. Having a helper on a transmission / clutch job is key.

Be sure and mark where the pressure plate is bolted in case it was balanced as an assembly. Also easy to change the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft if worn. You will need the plastic clutch disc alignment tool or and old input shaft to go back together. I keep a couple long cut off bolts to put in the two lower transmission bolt holes to use to slide the transmission back in on. that guides it in some and keeps you from knocking the throw out bearing off. I would also check it to see if it feels smooth. Be sure to have the transmission in gear when going back in so you can rotate the shaft in the rear to align the splines in clutch disc.

While out check the condition of the sleeve bearing in the tail shaft that runs on the drive shaft and if worn replace it. I know it seems like one little job just snow balls but when you are that deep in it is the time to do it. Also check your U-joints look for wear marks on the posts.

Keep us posted.[/align]

 
Don't forget. If you DO replace the clutch, the flywheel should be re-surfaced as well. Also, clean the surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel with brake cleaner. Add a small amount of high temp grease to the input shaft to lube the disc spines Didn't see that mentioned. When I removed my gearbox, I have a plastic plug that seals the tailstock. I did have to buy a complete set just to get the one I needed. Tape it in place with electrical tape so it stays in place. No need to drain your fresh oil out that way while you're getting it out.

I too know that the gear boxes have got heavier. I changed a clutch with the car on jack-stands back in '82. I just pulled the box off and set it on my chest, then to the floor. Cant do that anymore!!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top