Transmission / shifting Help please.

[DanCampbell]

Hello,

My car shifts really hard into gear, ....drive and reverse. This is all the time. Loud clunk and felt engagement.

The idle seems high long after it has warmed up.

It also has trouble going into park at times, I have to move the shifter into park a couple of times before it will go into "Park"

Car shifts fine while driving.

*The Neutral safety switch is bad I think, it will only start in "N"

This is a C6 (with the 351C 2v)

What are some things I should check and what adjustments could be made?

Any help would be great, I'm not sure where to start.

Thanks

Dan

 

[c9zx]

Hello,

My car shifts really hard into gear, ....drive and reverse. This is all the time. Loud clunk and felt engagement.

The idle seems high long after it has warmed up.

It also has trouble going into park at times, I have to move the shifter into park a couple of times before it will go into "Park"

Car shifts fine while driving.

*The Neutral safety switch is bad I think, it will only start in "N"

This is a C6 (with the 351C 2v)

What are some things I should check and what adjustments could be made?

Any help would be great, I'm not sure where to start.

Thanks

Dan

The high idle speed could be casing harsh engagement from neutral or park. I'd set the idle speed properly and then see if the harshness decreases. Excessive wear of U-joints or differential components could also contribute to harsh engagement. There is an alignment procedure for shifter linkage, column lock rod, and neutral safety switch in the Ford shop manual. There is a nylon bushing in the shifter that may also nee to be replaced if the shifter feel "sloppy". The neutral safety switch can be disassembled for cleaning/repair but it is a bit tricky. Chuck

 

[will e]

I replaced my nylon bushing and it was night and day getting it into the 'right' gear.

The thunk could be U joints.

 

[Wolverine]

What is your idle?

What is your cam?

What is the air speed of an African swallow?

Believe it or not, the IN DRIVE GEAR idle RPM for 71-73 Mustangs is 650 RPM....yes 650.

I would first check my choke to make sure it is working properly(closed at cold, open at warm) and than check my idle kickdown lever. The idle kickdown lever keeps the idle up when the choke is closed, and allows you to reduce the idle by quickly pressing on the accelerator pedal to kickdown the idle lever. ( I can probably supply diagrams if you can't find any online)

A trick to getting the choke to close if your engine is warm is to simply get a couple of ziplocks(double bagged) and fill them with ice water. You can put them on the choke to get it to cool faster. You might still need a can of beer to cool down yourself while you are waiting, but that is the price of car ownership.

If you have a cam that goes lumpity lumpity....lump lump. lumpity lump....you are going to lose a few fillings with a 650RPM idle. What you can do in this case is get a HEI ignition. This will help a LITTLE, but lumpity cams are what they are.

You can also avoid the auto transmission by getting a manual.

Or, you can change out your cam so something more friendly. The least friendly cam I am willing to use in my daily driver is a Boss type cam...but at least I have a standard to start from.

 

[DanCampbell]

What is your idle?

What is your cam?

What is the air speed of an African swallow?

Believe it or not, the IN DRIVE GEAR idle RPM for 71-73 Mustangs is 650 RPM....yes 650.

I would first check my choke to make sure it is working properly(closed at cold, open at warm) and than check my idle kickdown lever. The idle kickdown lever keeps the idle up when the choke is closed, and allows you to reduce the idle by quickly pressing on the accelerator pedal to kickdown the idle lever. ( I can probably supply diagrams if you can't find any online)

A trick to getting the choke to close if your engine is warm is to simply get a couple of ziplocks(double bagged) and fill them with ice water. You can put them on the choke to get it to cool faster. You might still need a can of beer to cool down yourself while you are waiting, but that is the price of car ownership.

If you have a cam that goes lumpity lumpity....lump lump. lumpity lump....you are going to lose a few fillings with a 650RPM idle. What you can do in this case is get a HEI ignition. This will help a LITTLE, but lumpity cams are what they are.

You can also avoid the auto transmission by getting a manual.

Or, you can change out your cam so something more friendly. The least friendly cam I am willing to use in my daily driver is a Boss type cam...but at least I have a standard to start from.

Wolverine,

I have a stock 351C 2V, no aftermarket cam at all.

The idle was up really high, had to keep your foot firm i=on the brake at a red light.

I took a good look at it yesterday and found a brass module with a plunger that has a wire going to the AC compressor.

This plunger (I have no idea what it's actually called) was pressing the throttle linkage.

I assume that it's meant to kick it idle up when you turn the AC on.

I backed this module out a few turns and tightened the lock nut.

Seems so much better now.

The car idles well and does not throw the car sideways when you put it into gear.

I not sure if this fixed the issue 100%, time will tell.

I do plan on adding a mild cam, Edelbrock intake and 600CFM carb as soon as funds permit.

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to help me out, the good Lord knows I need it.

Dan

Dan

 

[Go Time]

"If you have a cam that goes lumpity lumpity....lump lump. lumpity lump.." ( i love it)whats the lift on that cam wolverine ?? I repair appliance for a living and there will be a woman from time to time that will act out the noise her appliance is making so I always say "I didn't catch that could you do that again" I need to carry a voice recorder.."............If you have a cam that goes lumpity lumpity....lump lump. lumpity lump.." I could actually hear that in my head when I read it so good written description,... your too funny man.