Tried to start for first time FAILED

[mikepasquale1]

I tried starting the beast today for the first time. I had a few issues.

1. It didnt start

2. Timing could possibly be off

3. Selonoid stuck it the start position a couple of times (engages starter even after taking key out)

4. Carb need adjusted?

I tried to fire, i spit and sputtered for a second or so. It seems like im getting alot of fuel to the carb. Im running a Holley 0-80457S - Holley Model 4160 Carburetor, MDS Digital 6A Ignition Box, MSD Pro Billit Distributor, Im definately getting spark at the coil and plugs, and a Holley 12-289-11 110GPH Fuel Pump

THe fuel pump is rates at 6.5 - 8 PSI

THe recommended fuel pressure at the carb is 7 PSI

Im within pressure range.

It did try to fire so i know im getting spark, i even checked for spark.

Im getting fuel (maybe too much?)

The re read the specs on the carb and fuel pump and Holleys instructions stated that a regulator is not required.

Not sure what the issue is at this point.

THe selonoid did stick on me a few times but after re inspection i noticed that the starter cable side nut on the selonoid was loose causeing the post to be loose in the housing. I didnt have any more issues after tightening it back up. I think with the post being loose in the housing it was not allowing the relay mechanism inside to release from the post causing continuious powering to the starter.

 

[rentascout]

I would say that when you applied the power and it being loose caused it to jump off point which caused the issue, if you are getting spark but no fire I would double check all you wires to include but no limted to starter

 

[mikepasquale1]

Would you agree by tightening that loose.post fixed the selonoid issue?

 

[Darkhorse71]

I sounds like timing is off. OR, do you have the wires in the correct order on the cap/plugs? Are you using a 289/302 firing order cam or a 351w firing order? Remember, distributor turns counter clockwise...

Chaz

 

[mikepasquale1]

351w firing order

 

[will e]

Check the timing. Easy with a timing light. If your initial timing is at or around 10 btc then the car should start (from a timing perspective). I have found there is a lot of lee way in getting the car to start when it comes to timing (running good is another thing). But for now we are trying to get you started.

When you set the distributor I assume you lined it up with #1 while the timing pointer on the crank was pointing at TDC? Did you confirm you are on the compression stroke? Remember, the crank rotates twice for each complete distributor rotation. Last two engines I worked I get this backwards....

 

[Totalled]

How did you wire the msd? Do you have a factory tach?

 

[turtle5353]

Sounds like a timing problem.

 

[mikepasquale1]

How did you wire the msd? Do you have a factory tach?

No factory tach and the MSD box is wired correctly. I am getting spark for sure.

Check the timing. Easy with a timing light. If your initial timing is at or around 10 btc then the car should start (from a timing perspective). I have found there is a lot of lee way in getting the car to start when it comes to timing (running good is another thing). But for now we are trying to get you started.

When you set the distributor I assume you lined it up with #1 while the timing pointer on the crank was pointing at TDC? Did you confirm you are on the compression stroke? Remember, the crank rotates twice for each complete distributor rotation. Last two engines I worked I get this backwards....

I didnt realize that 2 revolutions completes the cycle. How do i know i i am on the compression stroke? The way o brought #1 to TDC is by placing a fiberoptic camera with an LED light on it into cylinder #1 and turned the crank to the right with a breaker bar (standing in front of the car) and watched the piston until its stopped at the top.

Im trying to draw this out in my head of exactly whats going on inside of the cylinder to better under stand the difference between the compression stroke and exhaust stroke. Im going to work on this tomorrow. THis is definately a timing issue. THe only problem i have right now is, im using a summit racing damper which has 3 different timing marks on it and forgot to mark which one i need. THe instructions tell you to put the crank key in the 12:00 position and use the timing marks that your pointer rests on at that point.

 

[Totalled]

Remove the number one spark plug. Put a finger over the hole. Turn the engine over. When you feel air rush out, you're coming up to TDC. Once the piston is at the top, drop the dist back in on #1. Try to start and time it again.

 

[will e]

Remove the number one spark plug. Put a finger over the hole. Turn the engine over. When you feel air rush out, you're coming up to TDC. Once the piston is at the top, drop the dist back in on #1. Try to start and time it again.

This is a little easier to do by hand rather than cranking the engine.

Another option is to remove the valve cover and watch the valves. On the compression stroke the will remain closed, on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve will open.

Eventually you will want to know where on your timing marker 'TDC' really is. There are a couple of options to this. The fiber optic is one way. You don't have to be 'exact'. Your final timing will be based on where it runs best, not some number in a manual.

 

[tplusa72]

Sounds like my exact problem. The timing pointer is at TDC, the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug. Starting attempts result in backfire in the carb. I assume it is not on the compression stroke but on the exhaust storke.

Will rotate the crank around once (360 crank degrees) and then set dist to #1 over again,

Rotated crank once around to the timing marks. The rotor is now 180 degress away from pointing at # 1.

 

[turtle5353]

Sounds like my exact problem. The timing pointer is at TDC, the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug. Starting attempts result in backfire in the carb. I assume it is not on the compression stroke but on the exhaust storke.

Will rotate the crank around once (360 crank degrees) and then set dist to #1 over again,

Rotated crank once around to the timing marks. The rotor is now 180 degress away from pointing at # 1.

Sounds like you and Mike are 180 out. As totalled stated just pull the plud and turn motor over feeling the compression out the plug hole. I have used a wire to feel the piston come up to tdc.... drop the distrubutor in with the rotor pointing at #1 plug on cap. But be careful the rotor likes to turn as you drop the dizzy in. When the dizzy gear mesh they turn the rotor and can put you 1 tooth off. it would still probably start that way but wouldnt run well and you would run out of timing adjustment before it was running right. Just be patient and take your time. Let me know how you do mike.

 

[mikepasquale1]

Thanks for all of the advance guys, I have experienced help coming tomorrow to get this thing fired up. I described the issue to him and he is saying exactly what everyone else on here is telling me. Should be a walk in the park for someone with experience. Ill update you tomorrow night. Thanks guys!