Trunk mount battery cable questions

[Jeff73Mach1]

I am relocating my battery to the back of my car. I have my aluminum Taylor Battery box mounted to the rear of the passenger side frame rail and am getting ready to get wire to run forward to the starter. (I have a late model starter installed so my wiring is already modified as the starter carries a solenoid mounted to it.)

So I am looking at 2 gauge battery cable and by the foot it is over $3.00

Kits are in the 85.00 range from summit

But . . . 20 ft high quality jumper cables are under 25 bucks!

So I am thinking, why don't I just buy a set of nice jumper cables, cut them to length, add ends and be done with it . . . saving 75% of the cost in the process?

Is there a difference in the wire stranding or the cable covering that would make it less suitable?

Also I have a 130 amp 3G alternator and I'll have to run the wire for it to the battery directly to be able to use a cut off switch, so I'll need to run two full length cables to the battery. I think 4 Ga will be enough for the alternator, but any advice is appreciated.

 

[c9zx]

I would not use anything smaller than 1/0 gauge for the starter. I always use 2/0 and never had a problem. I think the gauge may work but is the minimum gauge but, I've never run a 130A 3G alternator. Chuck

 

[Qcode351mach]

Jeff,

I used the summit / jegs kit on both My mustang & Camaro

I don't get why u need 2 cables to install a shut off usually the shutoff is inline on the positive cable..I soldered all my lugs connections, use a propane torch with a VERY small flame..The kits are well worth the money I believe some where in my build thread (page 6) is a few shots of how I ran the cable..I would NOT use jumper cable wire. This is one application you don't want to skimp on. Bite the bullet drop the 85.00 smackers

 

[MeZapU]

It's your car and do what you want to do, but I have reverted three trunk mounted battery cars back to normal over the years. With all the added weight and complexity it adds to the vehicle, the only real reason to put the battery in the trunk is because of space in the engine compartment. It seems the "race car" thing to do but it is often poorly executed with substandard components and connections. If you do it correctly, you will be adding about 30-35lbs worth of wire at the cost of quite a bit of money for not much gained. I mean, the car will not do much more performance wise.

Just my opinion.

 

[judge]

I've used welding leads for this. I see old ones in the scrap yard all the time. Buy them for the dirty copper price.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

quite a difference of opinion!

I'm probably going to just use 2 ga automotive battery cable for the battery and run a 14 Ga wire for the ignition rather than a cable for the alternator.

You need a way to cut power to the ignition as the alternator will keep the car running even with the battery disconnected/turned off. you also have to have a way to keep the alternator from spiking and causing itself damage when the car is cut off.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Well the more I research, the more I think running the Alternator lead to the battery is the best way to go. It does add some weight and cost, but it will keep my alternator from being damaged when the cut off is activated. The drag strip requires battery cut off for cars faster than a certain index and I intend to be.

 

[Wolverine]

If you do it correctly, you will be adding about 30-35lbs worth of wire at the cost of quite a bit of money for not much gained. I mean, the car will not do much more performance wise.

And, think of all the extra carbon footprint you will be creating:

1. All the CO2 generated to:

1. Pull that 35-40 pounds of copper out of the ground.

2. Smelt...just the word smelt makes me think of the ocean rising 6".

3. The cable insulation, a heavy FOSSIL FUEL component.

4. Delivery to the store.

5. Your drive to the store, or the store's drive to you.

6. The multiple gallons of extra gasoline you will be using for carrying around an extra 1% of bottom anchor weight.

Kind of makes me want to move my LEAD acid battery.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Relocation is for the purpose of moving weight to the rear and more importantly off the front end. Better performance isn't the actual goal as my car has more power than it can handle already. I''m doing it for the most important reason-cause I want to.

It will also make a rear mounted cut off switch easy to install for use at the drag strip.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

It is done. I used 30 feet of 2ga marine cable that I was able to buy for 2.65 a foot. Everything ran under the passenger side sill plate with ease (BTW if you ever do this, you can remove the b pillar vent and reach way in to pull the cable through) and then up under the passenger side fender.

I'll post a picture of the trunk tonight.

 

[rcadd1ct]

I have looked into doing this instead.....

https://www.braillebattery.com/index.php/braille/product_batteries/b3121

I have to use one for my large displacement HD. They use them for racing and the coca is very good.

So if you compare the weight of copper to the weight loss of the battery it may be something to consider.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Well yesterday was a long day and I didn't get around to taking a picture. I'll try again tonight.

As to the weight of the cables it was about 20 pounds. It is all on the passenger side of the car where it is mostly behind the front wheels, so I'm not concerned by the extra weight, it is low and centered and will not hurt my handling at all.

The braille batteries are very cool, and would be a good option especially for leaving up front, but weight over the back tires is a good thing sometimes!

 

[rcadd1ct]

Well yesterday was a long day and I didn't get around to taking a picture. I'll try again tonight.

As to the weight of the cables it was about 20 pounds. It is all on the passenger side of the car where it is mostly behind the front wheels, so I'm not concerned by the extra weight, it is low and centered and will not hurt my handling at all.

The braille batteries are very cool, and would be a good option especially for leaving up front, but weight over the back tires is a good thing sometimes!

I was thinking about putting the Braille battery in the wheel well behind the front tire.

It is so far down my list though. My whole build needs to be restarted after seeing what the shop did to the underside of my car.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Okay, here is a picture as promised and a second one to show the switch at least partially.

 

[73pony]

Looks really good. Clean. This will be one of my projects as well but will be a little later on. Need to replace some suspension components first, just trying to wait until it gets a little colder out, so I don't miss out on days to drive it around in the nice weather.