Update on Midlife Harness Restorations

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Don't forget when you move in and are settled in your new place make sure you sit outside and yell at people walking by.  I remember you said you are a Professional "Get off my god-damn lawn you twits" porch sitter/holler-er.

 
I will resume working on Mustang wiring June 1 with a new address.  Please contact me prior to shipping to ensure you have the proper address, now updated on my webpage.  Thank you.

 
Midlife, no rush on this as you're settling into new digs. Rather than create a new thread for this, is there a way to convert my sport lamps only, to daylight running lights, on with ignition and without tail lights being on. I'm getting tired of blind drivers who seem not to be able to see my 6 foot wide car coming towards them. Here in Ontario, DLR's are required on all new vehicles, but not old. If I just run with the sport lamps on, people get confused when seeing the red rear lights. (although if the rear lights are on, maybe they'll stay off my ***). I have an idea how to do it, but electrical stuff is not in my wheelhouse.

If I need to re-do this as a thread, please say so.

Thanks.

 
Midlife, no rush on this as you're settling into new digs. Rather than create a new thread for this, is there a way to convert my sport lamps only, to daylight running lights, on with ignition and without tail lights being on. I'm getting tired of blind drivers who seem not to be able to see my 6 foot wide car coming towards them. Here in Ontario, DLR's are required on all new vehicles, but not old. If I just run with the sport lamps on, people get confused when seeing the red rear lights. (although if the rear lights are on, maybe they'll stay off my ***). I have an idea how to do it, but electrical stuff is not in my wheelhouse.

If I need to re-do this as a thread, please say so.

Thanks.
Interesting idea.  The only thing I can think of is to use a RUN-only line as a relay trigger for your sportslamps (71/72 only---73 have running lights and turn signals).  You'd have to splice into the existing orange/red sportslamp lines, disabling the existing input; not a trivial matter.  That same line is power for the high and low beams.

 
Interesting idea.  The only thing I can think of is to use a RUN-only line as a relay trigger for your sportslamps (71/72 only---73 have running lights and turn signals).  You'd have to splice into the existing orange/red sportslamp lines, disabling the existing input; not a trivial matter.  That same line is power for the high and low beams.
Thanks for the reply midlife. So, the orange/red wire does two jobs basically. I just knew there would be a fly in the ointment so to speak. Would it work by cutting the s/lamp power wire close to the bulbs, splicing them together to complete the high/low beam circuit, then run separate RUN-only wires to the s/lamb bulbs? This is something I'd like to upgrade if at all possible on my 71 Mach. With Hi-Po Parts LED's they would definitely be seen........... and so would I.

Thanks again for your time to reply.

 
The orange/red wire goes to the dimmer switch, where the switch transfers power to either high or low beams.  A second orange/red wire from that same plug powers the sportslamps.  Just cut that wire somewhere between the dimmer switch and the driver's side sportslamp, terminate the end from the dimmer switch, and use the other end for your relay output.

 
The orange/red wire goes to the dimmer switch, where the switch transfers power to either high or low beams.  A second orange/red wire from that same plug powers the sportslamps.  Just cut that wire somewhere between the dimmer switch and the driver's side sportslamp, terminate the end from the dimmer switch, and use the other end for your relay output.
Ah, interesting. That is something I think I can do. Thank you again. Maybe that is something you could incorporate into your new wiring harness for the 71-72's as an alternative "if desired" feature. Just a thought. 

I'll let you know when I get it done.

 
I don't do relays, as the wiring is dependent upon where you put the relays in the engine bay, and I don't want to go there.
Midlife, I understand what you are saying, but when you said previously, "...... terminate the end from the dimmer switch, and use the other end for your replay output", were you meaning I would need to purchase and add a powered relay in that circuit, or does that just mean relay as in a connection to a known key 12V wire at some convenient place? I did not mean for this to become a tutorial or take your time right now, I'd just like to get an understanding of the term "Relay". I do have the new Forel PDF download of the 71 Colorized Wiring Diagrams, so I have the schematic of the Mach 1 lights, I can clearly see what you are saying. If you could just clear up the meaning in this case I would greatly appreciate it and your time once again.

Thanks,

Geoff.

 
You would want to add a relay somewhere to power the DRL function.
Thanks Mike. I was afraid of that. However adding a powered relay might be easier than digging into the wiring to find a 12V keyed source. I still need to find and add "good" relays for the LED headlight conversion, so what's one more relay!

 
If your car doesn't have a key on voltage source under the hood, like for a throttle kicker or emission device, use a Pertronix relay triggered by connecting it to the positive side of the ignition coil.

 
If your car doesn't have a key on voltage source under the hood, like for a throttle kicker or emission device, use a Pertronix relay triggered by connecting it to the positive side of the ignition coil.
Interesting idea. I don't have any emissions or throttle kicker, but the coil is powered by a full 12V source for the Pertronix II. I'll look into this.

Thanks for the input.

 
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