Upper control arm

[Dinger]

Anyone have trouble with Moog RK621369 control arms. they are different than the ones that were on the car they were stock .

 

[Moderator73]

I’ve been using these MOOG upper control arms for three years now and they work great. Huge improvement over my worn out ones. I don’t know what you mean about them being different from your stock uppers? They are pretty much identical. But to answer your question, absolutely no trouble with this exact part for me.

You didn’t mention what your plan is for your spring perches. I’d recommend getting new perches while you’re changing your upper control arms if you haven’t already. Those are probably your originals from 50+ years ago. Here’s an inexpensive one that would compare to your stock part:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/https:/...cs-coil-spring-saddle-1965-1973/p/C4DZ3388RI/

Also recommended, you might want to get the 90 degree grease fittings for your upper arm end caps. Here’s a link for those:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/control...installation-tool-mustang-1965-1973/p/HW1126/

Anyway, I think you’ll be happy with your new MOOG arms.

 

[Hemikiller]

I've not used the Moog arms, but have seen reports of people having issues with them fitting the 71-73 cars due to the extra material behind the inner shaft.

 

[Omie01]

I kind of had this issue with Global West upper control arms. The welded area of the tube rubbed against the support material inside our shock towers. I would probably grind them down to match the originals just in case. Good luck!!

 

[Dinger]

The problem is the top is too wide it hits on the upper mount and won’t let the control alarm go up the whole way. You can see from the distance of the mounts. I would have to cut the top to make them work.

 

[Dinger]

The problem is the top is too wide it hits on the upper mount and won’t let the control alarm go up the whole way. You can see from the distance of the mounts. I would have to cut the top to make them work.

 

[Dinger]

I’m finally figured it out. It needed a little modification.

 

[AcesArneson]

Had the same issue with my Global West UCA's. The pivot was rubbing against the outside of the shock tower. I checked the website for Global West and they said just shim it out, which is fine with me as long as I can still get good camber when the weight is back on the car after the restoration is complete.

 

[mjlan]

It looks like the Moog arm stamping is different than the Ford stamping.

If you get it to work please provide some photos of what you had to modify.

Unfortunately this is to be expected on parts built from new tooling for 50 year old cars. Moog probably built the cheapest tool they could that would allow that arm to fit the most applications.

 

[Steve McMahan]

More likely, Moog built one part number that replaced several parts because none of them alone could be made economical, due to the low sales volume. That’s what happened to the 73 idler arm, and I suspect countless other parts. But, since we like to work on things, trimming is not a big deal.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

The only thing I ask of manufacturers is: If a part does NOT fit without modification say so in the footnotes allowing the customer an informed decision. To me a part DOES NOT FIT if it needs to be modified. No fun while under the car and surprise, surprise- another non fitting part! Scott Drake (and many others) have been pulling this stunt forever.
As always, thanks for allowing a vent

 

[Dinger]

This is how much I had to cut off. You can see it on the other pictures I posted.