Valley Pan Gasket

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sgtjd

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Fairborn OH
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1973 Mach 1
Just pulled off my heads (351C 2V) today along with the intake manifold and noticed that there was a valley pan gasket installed for the intake manifold. Should I reinstall a new valley pan gasket or just new intake manifold gasket?

 
Just pulled off my heads (351C 2V) today along with the intake manifold and noticed that there was a valley pan gasket installed for the intake manifold. Should I reinstall a new valley pan gasket or just new intake manifold gasket?
If you're going to reinstall the stock intake, I would recommend reinstalling the "turkey pan" since the stock intake is cast iron. With an after market intake, it's flip a coin. Some reinstall the turkey pan, while others pitch it.

My 2 cents,

Doc

 
I have an Elderbrock Aluminum intake
Me, too. I've got the 2750. I didn't use the turkey pan when I installed the aluminum intake, since it cools better than the stock cast iron. The pan keeps oil from splashing up on the intake during high revs, so the intake stays cooler. At least that's how I understand it.

There's been much more discussed here if you search for "valley pan" on this website.

Doc

 
This was discussed last week.

The conclusion was to use it even with the aftermarket aluminum intakes. The purpose is to keep the hot engine oil off the intake which on a Cleveland in not liquid cooled. It will even help the aftermarket intakes stay cool and in summer can be the difference between running and vapor lock.

At least that is what I learned and plan to use it with my new Elderbrock Performer.

 
{thumbs up}
IF you're using an aftermarket aluminum intake manifold AND blocking off the exhaust crossover passage, then a valley pan gasket is not necessary (because there isn't any additional source of heat). If you think that you'll reduce the temperature of the intake manifold, by using a valley pan, your wrong. A valley pan is not an insulator that completely seals off the bottom of the manifold from engine heat, it's only an oil barrier for the exhaust crossover passage. <~~~ that says it all

 
OK, nothing new about the following but here it is. Cut the port sealing surfaces off of the used valley pan. Reuse just the remaining center section of the valley pan with one 1/4" hole drilled at the lowest point on the pan (rear edge of center depression). CLEAN everything THOROUGHLY with lacquer thinner, or similar product. Use quality composition port sealing gaskets (Fel-Pro, etc). Align port gaskets to the bolt holes and ports, glue them in place with Gaska-Cicnh (SP) or similar product. Use the end seals provided with a THIN layer of black RTV on both sides and a small "dab" of rtv at the corners where the port sealing gasket meets the end seals. If you are worried about gasket alignment, install two long bolts with the hex head cut off in the vertical bolt holes at the center bolt holes in the head to act as a guide in lowering the intake into place without disturbing gasket positioning. Torque to spec, wait a bit and re-torque. Allow the RTV to dry and cure completely. Retorque after the engine has been heat cycled the first time. Just what we did back when. It is a bit of a pain but worked for me. Chuck

 
Some people have sealing problems with the turkey pan and aluminum intakes, especially the 351C-4V, probably due to the narrow walls on the passages. You can use both gaskets, by trimming the turkey pan around the new gasket, just leaving tabs where the bolts are, to hold it in place. Drill a couple of holes in the turkey pan so oil can drain out of it.

 
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