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coiltosoil

Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2014
Messages
5
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0
Location
PA
My Car
1973 Mach 1
What do you guys think this is worth, it comes with everything minus the engine, or should I just scrap it? It's a 1973 mach 1, I attempted to restore, as you can see it did not go well. It needs new floor pans, seat pans, taillight panel, battery tray panel, and cowl. It has the center console (which I know is a nice thing to have), it has front disc brakes (I started redoing them a few years ago it has new rotors, bearings, brake lines, master cylinder), I have also replaced the coil perches, coils, and the shocks. I cleaned the tank, added a new fuel line, floating assembly, and electric fuel pump. Granted It was added about 5 years ago and sitting since then. It has what I believe was called the Boss gauge package? It was a fairly high optioned car with A/C which I still have the parts for. I also have a bunch of extra parts for it as you can see. I also have Cleveland parts like the 2bbl heads, air intake, fans, chrome and stock valve covers, stock intake... Whats my best option? Sell it as a package, scrap the body and sell the interior parts, or? Also what would be a fair price for everything? The glass is good, I also have a set of 4 original rally wheels, as well as mach 1 hub caps for the steel wheels, and an FMX tranny minus the bell housing.

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Hey, welcome from western Tennessee! That looks kind of rough, but it can be saved. You do have a bunch of good parts there, which is a great starting point. Value at this point? It depends on how much rust there is underneath. Can't see the trunk, wheelhouses, and cowl. I wouldn't get my hopes up regarding value. Maybe 1500 because you do have a bunch of decent parts, but there's a lot of work to be done, so......

 
or, 30 to $50,000 if you put it on CL or E-bay! sorry, so much of that going on I couldn't pass it up. I agree with the 15ish figure as a whole, you might be able to spit and polish some of the pieces and make a bit more. I'd keep it together, from what I can see it looks savable.

 
Thanks guys, that's $1200 or so without the engine? I plan to keep the 351c since I eventually want to get one in better shape to work on and have a set of 4bbl cc heads to throw on it. This car was supposed to be an easy project but it turned into a nightmare. It needs a lot of sheet metal, the cowl, floors, rear fender wells, and a few other spots. Luckily the trunk is really nice, the roof, trunk lid, hood, and fenders aren't too bad, but it was still way beyond my experience. I'll just cut my losses and move on. I don't want to scrap it, it can be saved like you said, and i do have clean title, i'd like someone to take it and restore it, as I hate seeing classic Mustangs destroyed. I'll post it for $1200 on Cl and see what I can get. Thanks again.

 
Can you provide the all but the last five numbers of the VIN?
yep, 3f05h2


If anyone knows anyone in the Philly area, I'd like to see the car go to someone who will appreciate it.

 
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If you can get $1200-1500 >>>> sell sell sell! :)

Othersise I'd say part it out or

keep all and find another (much nicer) one. Then use what parts off this car you need to make another one decent then part/scrap out the remainder.

Good luck.

Ray

 
If you can get $1200-1500 >>>> sell sell sell! :)

Othersise I'd say part it out or

keep all and find another (much nicer) one. Then use what parts off this car you need to make another one decent then part/scrap out the remainder.

Good luck.

Ray
Thanks everyone. I see the black center consoles with clocks going for $500 or so on Ebay, mines really nice, no crack or anything, is that the going rate?

 
Having just purchased a 1972 Mustang that was in a similar state of disassembly, I would say that you will have a very difficult time selling this for $1500. Unless, there is a specific buyer that needs a parts car or is very motivated to fix it up. I have to agree with Boss1Ray, if you got someone willing to buy it at $1200 to $1500 take the money.

However, if you do plan on getting another car in better shape, but you need money, sell select items that you would be willing to be without on that next car. For example you mentioned the gauges selling for good money. If you are OK with the warning lights (assuming the next car does not have gauges), sell them. Bucket seats bring pretty good money (as long as yours are not rusted and just need coverings). Any of the glass that is good, I see engine parts strewn all over timbuktu, sell them off. Keep the body and the various sheetmetal, lights, grill, ect.

Think of what you would allow to be missing on the next car that you can donate from this car. If you find another car with a good body but missing the engine, then keep your engine. Good body, but missing interior, then keep your interior. Hope this is making sense. You can sell off parts to help finance the next car with the understanding that you are sacrificing some good parts to get a good base shell.

 
Having just purchased a 1972 Mustang that was in a similar state of disassembly, I would say that you will have a very difficult time selling this for $1500. Unless, there is a specific buyer that needs a parts car or is very motivated to fix it up. I have to agree with Boss1Ray, if you got someone willing to buy it at $1200 to $1500 take the money.

However, if you do plan on getting another car in better shape, but you need money, sell select items that you would be willing to be without on that next car. For example you mentioned the gauges selling for good money. If you are OK with the warning lights (assuming the next car does not have gauges), sell them. Bucket seats bring pretty good money (as long as yours are not rusted and just need coverings). Any of the glass that is good, I see engine parts strewn all over timbuktu, sell them off. Keep the body and the various sheetmetal, lights, grill, ect.

Think of what you would allow to be missing on the next car that you can donate from this car. If you find another car with a good body but missing the engine, then keep your engine. Good body, but missing interior, then keep your interior. Hope this is making sense. You can sell off parts to help finance the next car with the understanding that you are sacrificing some good parts to get a good base shell.

Thanks, I do need the money, and the next car I plan to buy will be pretty much completely done when I get some extra money so I'm really trying to sell everything now. Do you think $1,000 asking is fair for everything and maybe settle for $900?

 
Lay it out there at $1200 obo. See what the cats drag in... :)

If you want good money put the best parts on ebay! Take lots of pics and sell them "as-is".

Ray

 
I would start at $1200. Put it on CL and post the pictures just as you have them here. If you have a looker with $800 cash, take it. More than likely they will try to get you to $900 and you will be $100 over the $800 target. I think the one regret here is the engine. It appears you have parts of it all over. If you at least had it bolted together (non-running would be fine), you get get it over the $1000. But Lord knows loading up the parts will take half a day (if I am seeing the pictures correctly).

If you want to really move this at the $1200 mark, bolt on the fenders and hood, place the seats back in the car, empty the interior of the engine parts, and pull it out of the back yard and get pictures of it in the front driveway. Box up the loose parts and attempt to label them. Reassemble the motor (do not worry about gaskets) so it can be moved as a unit. Is there a transmission? Put it next to the motor and set the air cleaner on top and take anice picture of them next to each other. The potential buyer has to see that most of the parts are at least available to put this back together.

Check out my 1972 mechanical rebuild thread:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1972-mechanical-rebuild

I paid $1500 for this. Granted I got three motors and one transmission, but the seller did show that he hAD most all the parts. I ended up needing some brackets and a fan, but it did go back together and does now run. It still is the same rusty car, but that is another story. My point, sell it now and maybe get $900 to $800. A weekend job of organizing and wrenching could net you another $500 to $700. You could squeeze out the $1500 with little effort.


I missed that you want to keep the motor. Then I would lose any pictures that shows motor parts. Unless you are specifically selling the old heads, oil pan, water pump, ect and keeping the block and the 4V heads for your next car. Without an engine, $1200 on CL and hope you get the $900 to $800.

 
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Coil I noticed you said you've had this car for some time. 5 years ago you started the "restoration". Then I noted that you needed the money from the sale. But your going to get a better one when "you get the money" and ...... fix it up.

As stated by someone else, your parts are scattered... I can assume the bolts are in a coffee can or lying around. Have you really given thought to the idea your not really motivated to restore a car? 5 years and the car is left in that condition it may be you like cool cars but just dont have the true interest or time to restore one. Its been 5 years...you could have cleaned the entire car with a toothbrush by now. Most importantly if it is 5 years later and you "need the money" you wont have the money to buy a better one.

At this point only you know where you have pitched each part and corresponding bolt and nut. To get the most money out of this car, it needs to have ALL the parts and bolts!!!! Understand that a buyer is hoping he can put the car together if he has everything. Observing the pictures as a buyer my questions would be

where are all the parts?

where are all the bolts?

where are the nuts?

where is the wiring?

What is original?

if your answers are

I think I have all the parts

I think I have all the bolts

I think I have all the nuts

I heard all the wiring was original

They "told me" the parts were there

They "told me" it was original

ETC ETC ETC

As a buyer I would become VERY suspicious and mentally lower my offer along with my interest.

My next question will be which shifter bracket is correct? (note the non-console shifter bezel laying in the sundeck area ).

An educated buyer will see the environment and ask these questions.

This comes from experience. I've bought several cars in the condition yours is and NONE of the experiences were FUN. Quite honestly it takes a lot of work and removes all the fun looking through a pile of bolts for longer than it takes to put a part on. When I see that.... I start cutting my offering price.

You have a car!!! I recommend you sit down and make a plan. Take each part and inventory what it is, Pick up each bolt and nut and put them in a bag and mark it as to what it is and where it goes. ORGANIZE your parts, protect the ones easily breakable.

A grinder, a finishing/wire wheel, sand paper, some cans of primer and basic paint...... get busy and you could easily find that you have a car you ALREADY OWN and want to KEEP and finish OR a car prepared to sell for 2000 or 2500 verses 800 and that price is generous. If you NEED the money? think of it like this someone is willing to PAY you to inventory and clean up parts for 1500.00 !!!! what's that worth to you ?

 

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