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Finally got my brakes including hand brake operational, new braided hoses, made up all new pipes and vacuum bled it and after a few adjustments have a great pedal.

Now just need to put the rest of the car together.
Awesome. What type of steering system do you have?
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Finally got my brakes including hand brake operational, new braided hoses, made up all new pipes and vacuum bled it and after a few adjustments have a great pedal.

Now just need to put the rest of the car together.
Awesome. What type of steering system do you have?

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I have an Aussie made RRS power rack & pinion for RHD conversion. They make LHD as well. Will be a long time before I can report how well it works but the fitment was easy.

 
...added LED headlights. Wow. 

They look totally cool... and did I say Wow?  The lumens are incredible 2800 lumens on low beam and 4450 lumens on high beam. What's cool is because they're LEDs they only pull 30W or 48W (per bulb) respectively, so absolutely no upgrades or relays are needed to be added your wiring. They are incredibly different than stock and since they are not reflector bulbs you can get them with the rear of the bulb in black, if you like that black out look.  Definitely cool upgrade.   ::thumb::

 
...added LED headlights. Wow. 

They look totally cool... and did I say Wow?  The lumens are incredible 2800 lumens on low beam and 4450 lumens on high beam. What's cool is because they're LEDs they only pull 30W or 48W (per bulb) respectively, so absolutely no upgrades or relays are needed to be added your wiring. They are incredibly different than stock and since they are not reflector bulbs you can get them with the rear of the bulb in black, if you like that black out look.  Definitely cool upgrade.   ::thumb::
Please post a link to the headlights you bought. Thanks

 




I'm at a Labor Day car show / picnic today but I'll send you the link tonight or tomorrow. I bought a pair of reconditioned headlights buckets in case I needed to do modifications but the LED headlights fit perfectly without any modifications.

 
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Nice, Does it just get held in by the standard metal frame that holds the original in ?  Did you use the amber turn signal option?  I don't really need / want that, I wonder if there is a version without it.


The cast aluminum housing of the LED bulb has 3 square protrusions on the rear of the outer periphery. I was shocked to find that they engage 3 square recesses in the cup of the stock headlight bucket and when oriented correctly it is rotationally aligned perfectly. The square recesses in the stock headlight bucket cups @ 2, 7 & 11 o'clock must be some standard, even from the 1970's. The standard stainless trim rings hold the bulbs correctly. (I painted mine satin black)  Once you cinch down the 3 screws holding the ring and the bulb to the cup, it's installed.  There is plenty of room behind the bulb for the supplied pigtail to exit the hole at the rear of the cup.

The halos come with male spade connectors on the wires. I tapped in a whip line (with a shielded female spade) from the side marker to the headlight bucket area and a whip line (with a shielded female spade) from the turn signal to the headlight bucket area. Wired this way, I can use the white/amber halos any way I want and change which way they're used in about 15 secs.  I think I'll give them a switched hot also, as a way to turn the halos on for shows. With the LEDs you could have your halos on for hours, at a show, and not kill your battery much at all.

As far as not using them at all, that's personal preference...I find that they make the innards of the LED glow which looks Terminatorish, which is cool to me.  I like that they're NOT full halos as everyone and their mother is trying to duplicate that look and I'm not much of a follower. You'll have state of the art headlights and not look like everyone else.

 
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Soon my dudes

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Finally felt comfortable with my rocker geometry. Ended up using the 90º at half lift method.

I marked a line connecting the centerlines of the rocker trunion and roller shaft and aligned it to the parallel with the valve retainer. 

I then screwed the poly lock in by 1/2 of my gross lift (.606 lift /2 = .303) 

The rocker stud is 20 TPI so each revolution would be .050, so I went 6 turns plus a hair to get .303.

I did this with an 8.425" long pushrod which was not contacting the rocker at this point. I used a dial indicator to measure the slack between the rocker arm and the tip of the pushrod and came up with .125". I happened to have a 8.550 long pushrod and repeated the process with that one. I put my dial indicator on the valve retainer and rotated the engine to 1/2 lift with everything installed. I took a picture and drew a line in my CAD program and it is only 1º off from perfect which is close enough for me. Ordered the pushrods and will get them Wednesday. 

There's not left much to do besides install the oil pan and intake manifold at this point. 

This picture is my rocker geometry at half lift ::thumb:: :

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Firewall pad and brake pedal in.  

Trying to figure out the order of parts sometimes is a pain.  Had to drive out to my parts car and take pictures a couple times.  The Jim Osburn Ford assembly manual is wonderfully ambiguous sometimes.



 
Winning the battle against brake lines.

Made up a mount to bolt in place of the stock combo valve.



I don't mean to be negative, but when bending brake lines, you will usually see a coil shape bent into the lines to absorb vibration.  Without that coil shaped bends, the lines could fail from vibration issues.  Probably won't happen and if it does it may be years from now, but what I was taught makes sense and I felt the need to share.

 
75 and sunny today. So stopped home at lunch and got the stang out. Took a drive out to the new house to see how construction was going. Car ran fantastic. Drove it like I stole it. It was a good day other than when I got back to the office and having to look out my window at it just siting in the parking lot.

 
Winning the battle against brake lines.

Made up a mount to bolt in place of the stock combo valve.



I don't mean to be negative, but when bending brake lines, you will usually see a coil shape bent into the lines to absorb vibration.  Without that coil shaped bends, the lines could fail from vibration issues.  Probably won't happen and if it does it may be years from now, but what I was taught makes sense and I felt the need to share.

I just copied the original tube layout, but swapped the combo valve for a tee and an adjustable prop valve.  When I make up the lines to the master cyl I plan on flex loops.



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