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Hi folks,

I am a new member with a new (to me) 1972 Mustang and need a little help.

Today I replaced the ignition switch and it didn't solve my problem.  It still won't start.  

The car was working great and while it was running in my driveway I noticed a little play (forward and backward) in the steering wheel.  I pulled on the wheel gently and it extended out toward my chest  and the engine died.  The plunger in the egnition switch pulled out.  I ordered a replacement and bought a chilton.  After following the instructions  on replacing the switch it seems like the connector rod (from ignition to switch) is a little too short.  I have both the ignition and switch in the lock position.  

Also, I noticed when attempting to park on a hill the auto transmission wouldn't go into park all the way.  Playing with it on flat ground I can get it into park but it slips out.

Not sure if these are related.  Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!

 
Hi folks,

I am a new member with a new (to me) 1972 Mustang and need a little help.

Today I replaced the ignition switch and it didn't solve my problem.  It still won't start.  

The car was working great and while it was running in my driveway I noticed a little play (forward and backward) in the steering wheel.  I pulled on the wheel gently and it extended out toward my chest  and the engine died.  The plunger in the egnition switch pulled out.  I ordered a replacement and bought a chilton.  After following the instructions  on replacing the switch it seems like the connector rod (from ignition to switch) is a little too short.  I have both the ignition and switch in the lock position.  

Also, I noticed when attempting to park on a hill the auto transmission wouldn't go into park all the way.  Playing with it on flat ground I can get it into park but it slips out.

Not sure if these are related.  Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!
The gear of the key cylinder sometimes can jump a tooth, which may not be giving enough of a turn to crank the engine. This happens to me often.Try first cranking the engine by actuating the rod of the switch directly. You will have to disconect the rod from the column and then push the switch rod all the way. If you dont get any cranking then you have other issues. If it cranks try removing the ignition cylinder and adjust it so the last tooth of the rod engages the last tooth of the cylinder gear. The manual explains this procedure well.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 
Hi folks,

I am a new member with a new (to me) 1972 Mustang and need a little help.

Today I replaced the ignition switch and it didn't solve my problem.  It still won't start.  

The car was working great and while it was running in my driveway I noticed a little play (forward and backward) in the steering wheel.  I pulled on the wheel gently and it extended out toward my chest  and the engine died.  The plunger in the egnition switch pulled out.  I ordered a replacement and bought a chilton.  After following the instructions  on replacing the switch it seems like the connector rod (from ignition to switch) is a little too short.  I have both the ignition and switch in the lock position.  

Also, I noticed when attempting to park on a hill the auto transmission wouldn't go into park all the way.  Playing with it on flat ground I can get it into park but it slips out.

Not sure if these are related.  Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!
The shifter rod moves the lever on the trans. It also moves another rod that is connected to the steering column at the firewall. This rod turns a section on the column. If this is out of adjustment it wont start and may be causing you not going into park issue

Have you tried starting it in neutral

 
Hi folks,

I am a new member with a new (to me) 1972 Mustang and need a little help.

Today I replaced the ignition switch and it didn't solve my problem.  It still won't start.  

The car was working great and while it was running in my driveway I noticed a little play (forward and backward) in the steering wheel.  I pulled on the wheel gently and it extended out toward my chest  and the engine died.  The plunger in the egnition switch pulled out.  I ordered a replacement and bought a chilton.  After following the instructions  on replacing the switch it seems like the connector rod (from ignition to switch) is a little too short.  I have both the ignition and switch in the lock position.  

Also, I noticed when attempting to park on a hill the auto transmission wouldn't go into park all the way.  Playing with it on flat ground I can get it into park but it slips out.

Not sure if these are related.  Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!
The gear of the key cylinder sometimes can jump a tooth, which may not be giving enough of a turn to crank the engine. This happens to me often.

Try first cranking the engine by actuating the rod of the switch directly. You will have to disconect the rod from the column and then push the switch rod all the way. If you dont get any cranking then you have other issues. If it cranks try removing the ignition cylinder and adjust it so the last tooth of the rod engages the last tooth of the cylinder gear. The manual explains this procedure well.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Thanks for the reply.  I tried that, no cranking so I will think down the other issues path.  What did you do to determine / fix the key cylinder gear?

 
Hi folks,

I am a new member with a new (to me) 1972 Mustang and need a little help.

Today I replaced the ignition switch and it didn't solve my problem.  It still won't start.  

The car was working great and while it was running in my driveway I noticed a little play (forward and backward) in the steering wheel.  I pulled on the wheel gently and it extended out toward my chest  and the engine died.  The plunger in the egnition switch pulled out.  I ordered a replacement and bought a chilton.  After following the instructions  on replacing the switch it seems like the connector rod (from ignition to switch) is a little too short.  I have both the ignition and switch in the lock position.  

Also, I noticed when attempting to park on a hill the auto transmission wouldn't go into park all the way.  Playing with it on flat ground I can get it into park but it slips out.

Not sure if these are related.  Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!
The gear of the key cylinder sometimes can jump a tooth, which may not be giving enough of a turn to crank the engine. This happens to me often.

Try first cranking the engine by actuating the rod of the switch directly. You will have to disconect the rod from the column and then push the switch rod all the way. If you dont get any cranking then you have other issues. If it cranks try removing the ignition cylinder and adjust it so the last tooth of the rod engages the last tooth of the cylinder gear. The manual explains this procedure well.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Thanks for the reply.  I tried that, no cranking so I will think down the other issues path.  What did you do to determine / fix the key cylinder gear?
You may want to follow Don's suggestion about the steering column rod. Also, try something simple such as cranking the starter from the solenoid. On the starter solenoid quickly connect a wire between the battery and S terminals to see if the starter cranks.

To fix the cylinder gear I disassembled the key cylinder and reinserted it by making sure the gear is engaging the last thread. The Shop Manual explains how to perform this adjustment.

Edit: here is a link to the thread I started when I had/fixed the issue.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-ignition-key-not-turning-to-acc?highlight=ignition+and+cylinder+and+gear

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Opened up the Neutral Safety Switch and cleaned it up. I had to drill out the two rivets that hold the pieces together. The reverse switching was not working. I found out that besides all the grime and dirt, the small cylinder was out of position.

After that my newly installed back-up camera is now working nicely and the backup lights are turning on!





 
The gear of the key cylinder sometimes can jump a tooth, which may not be giving enough of a turn to crank the engine. This happens to me often.

Try first cranking the engine by actuating the rod of the switch directly. You will have to disconect the rod from the column and then push the switch rod all the way. If you dont get any cranking then you have other issues. If it cranks try removing the ignition cylinder and adjust it so the last tooth of the rod engages the last tooth of the cylinder gear. The manual explains this procedure well.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Thanks for the reply.  I tried that, no cranking so I will think down the other issues path.  What did you do to determine / fix the key cylinder gear?
You may want to follow Don's suggestion about the steering column rod. Also, try something simple such as cranking the starter from the solenoid. On the starter solenoid quickly connect a wire between the battery and S terminals to see if the starter cranks.

To fix the cylinder gear I disassembled the key cylinder and reinserted it by making sure the gear is engaging the last thread. The Shop Manual explains how to perform this adjustment.

Edit: here is a link to the thread I started when I had/fixed the issue.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-ignition-key-not-turning-to-acc?highlight=ignition+and+cylinder+and+gear
Thanks guys!  Will get at it again this weekend.

 
Today started my sniper for first time. Very happy but car is not yet so far to leave garage, still loads to do...

so finished this happy day making 2 brackets, one to hold the sniper monitor beneath dashboard and the other for my inertia switch which is now also securely installed in trunk.

 
Took off a perfectly good set of silicone wires and installed a new set.  They are the proper 351C wires with orange-ish colored spark plug boots and correct factory markings.  They are numbered to the cylinder, and have the correct factory markings.  I need to get some of the correct grease to put on the ends for easier snap on off removal at the plugs themselves.  Doesn't make the car run any better of course, but it looks better now under the hood!

Brad

 
Just refurbished and sold a 72 tach-configured underdash harness.  This was the 13th 7123 underdash harness, accounting for ~25% of this year's efforts.  In past years, I was lucky to get up to 15% of a year's worth.  Keep 'em coming, folks!   :thankyouyellow:

 
Thanks for the reply.  I tried that, no cranking so I will think down the other issues path.  What did you do to determine / fix the key cylinder gear?
You may want to follow Don's suggestion about the steering column rod. Also, try something simple such as cranking the starter from the solenoid. On the starter solenoid quickly connect a wire between the battery and S terminals to see if the starter cranks.

To fix the cylinder gear I disassembled the key cylinder and reinserted it by making sure the gear is engaging the last thread. The Shop Manual explains how to perform this adjustment.

Edit: here is a link to the thread I started when I had/fixed the issue.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-ignition-key-not-turning-to-acc?highlight=ignition+and+cylinder+and+gear
Thanks guys!  Will get at it again this weekend.
Thanks again!  Starting it in neutral then moving it forward a few feet allowed me to get it firmly into Park.  Got a new ignition lock cylinder and everything we smooth after that.

 
Oil change, new filter and new spark plugs. I guess in a few weeks I'll be in for a big anniversary.

The odometer showed a little over 25000 when I got the car. I saw the 25000 again in 2009 and now it reads 19880. So I guess within the next month or so I'll have completed 200,000 km on my own with this car. Let's see how that goes. :)

 
I was having repeatability issues with my dial indicator setup degreeing the cam. I got it to the point where I could go through the cam's full cycle  and it would read zero before it opened the valve and after it closed. The cam was 2º advanced so I retarded it 2º and got the numbers on the cam card within a degree so I am ready to go. I took off friday and the tuesday after labor day so I plan on getting the engine together and possibly in (wishful thinking) in the next week. 

81wMiqal.jpg


jWchieLl.jpg


 
Started playing with pushrod length.. I started with 8.425 and it was bottoming out the poly lock with 0.030 free play between the rocker and the pushrod so I got 8.500 and 8.550's to check them. The 8.500 seems to give me proper geometry but I figure I'll post the wear pattern in case it is wrong. It looks close enough to the center to me:

Intake:

tAIwYVIl.jpg


Exhaust:

iUJma74l.jpg


Also, is it normal for the set screw to stick out of the poly locks this much?

D6ZZGGhl.jpg


 
My neighbor came over and wanted to see the 73 Vert so we went to the garage and I started it. Fired right up and he was impressed, lol. He saw the car when I got it with holes in the top and not cleaned up. Detailing goes a long ways.

It was weird no local car shows on Labor Day here. Got a cruse in or two but no real shows.

 
Finally got my brakes including hand brake operational, new braided hoses, made up all new pipes and vacuum bled it and after a few adjustments have a great pedal.

Now just need to put the rest of the car together.

P1020981.jpg

 
Friday myself and my lovely bride drove about 250 miles to the Finger Lakes Wine Country near Watkins Glen NY to visit my dad who is up from Florida.  The drive was great coming up and car ran perfectly. Now today when we have to leave, it is going to be raining for the return trip home, oh well it will be a good test for all the new rubbers and weather stripping !!! 

IMG_5146.JPG

 
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