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- Sep 13, 2010
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After trying a few more things that Summit and Wilwood suggested I removed the master cylinder for return to Summit. Lets see what a circus this turns into.
That really could have been one ugly ride, and we're really glad it worked out well for ya. How old were those rotors? I'm wondering if it may be an imported inferior product we're seeing. JMHO.The car is back on the road. ::chili::
I had two old rotors with hubs, wheel bearings and 1 upper ball joint lying around. Swapped all the arts and took a test drive. Came home on all 4 wheels, so I guess it's ok.
I figured out what was the main reason for the incident.
All those aftermarket wheels don't sit on the wheel hub!!! So the cornering forces go directly to the vertical part of the rotor/hub part, thus causing stress on the angle where the hub and the rotor meet.
That means that even with the 15 inch Torq Thrust rims I've been applying stress to that area for years.
Add Magnums to the list. They locate off the lugs.The car is back on the road. ::chili::
I had two old rotors with hubs, wheel bearings and 1 upper ball joint lying around. Swapped all the arts and took a test drive. Came home on all 4 wheels, so I guess it's ok.
I figured out what was the main reason for the incident.
All those aftermarket wheels don't sit on the wheel hub!!! So the cornering forces go directly to the vertical part of the rotor/hub part, thus causing stress on the angle where the hub and the rotor meet.
That means that even with the 15 inch Torq Thrust rims I've been applying stress to that area for years.
I don´t know exactly. Swapped them maybe 5 or 6 years ago.How old were those rotors? I'm wondering if it may be an imported inferior product we're seeing. JMHO.
We have tried every possible way to bleed this thing, IE power vac bleeder, manually (old school) bleed,etc.......... We have ran approx a gallon of fluid through the system, so if it still has air I give up. This has been an on going process over the past 4 Saturdays, not a single day deal. They have been bled multiple timesHey Roy, I haven't been keeping up on this forum or your break issues, but I recall my neighbor saying a few weeks ago that his Wilwood setup required each piston on the caliper to be bled individually? Don't know if that means anything to you, and I haven't seen the setup so I'm just blabbing...
lollerz lollerz rofl ::thumb::Chomped at the bit all week to get at the car, but do to rental/watertank issues it sat until today. Do ya know what happens when you leave sand laying around and have 3 cats? Answer, Use that sand to sand blast the Chevy rally wheels your neighbor dropped off non gratas!
M..all valid points..Thats why when you start running 18" rims with sticky rubber..lowering etc..everything else needs to be upgraded accordingly. You can't do this stuff with stock suspension components. Since as you found out (and you got lucky) It's only a matter of time before something breaks. Thats why when I decided to lower my car & run a updated 18" wheel /tire combo I upgraded my suspension components with parts THAT are made to handle the stress associated with 18" low profile tires. I did the same thing with my camaro..tubular control arms...upgraded ball joints..etc. PARTS that are designed to handle the increased loads. A word to the wise..If your going to run a 18" wheel /tire combo upgrade the suspension components too ! Thinking that running 0 offset wheels with no spacers is going to cure it from happening again is a pipe dream..What happened to you is a warning..Don't make the same mistake twice. !!!!I don't think the problem is those modern rims as such.I've got a feeling we may be trying to go with too big of diameter wheels than were engineered. This is a great post! We may need to rethink anything larger than 16-17 in rims due to the stresses! JMHO.
It's the little straws that add up until one breaks the camel's back.
Lemme explain: First off all, low ratio sidewalls tires. A 245/60/14 and a 245/40/18 will have the same tread width on the road but the new tire wont flex going round a bend, whereas the high sidewalls absorb a great amount of the cornering force.
So, the tire gives the stress to the rim that won't yield. Now the rims have that modern offset requiring 40mm spacers/adapters. And THAT leverage multiplies the forces considerably and passes them on to the suspension.
Now there's the next "problem": The suspension is lowered causing the ball joints to be "out of square" compared to stock specs. Plus the lowered suspension allows less body roll thus again preventing forces to be diverted from the car's body.
All those little details probably add up to an amount of stress that our ponies were not designed for. Add a little material fatigue to the mix and "BOOM" there you go.
In my special case there are two more issues. First I don't pamper this car but I really put her through the mangle and second I drive it a lot, almost every day.
Needless to say that I will stick to the 18 inch wheel thing, though. Just getting other rims with offset 0 and no spacers.
There's nothing to rethink..want to run an updated 18" wheel /tire combo ? Then install the correct updated modern components to handle the stresses..Very simple !I've got a feeling we may be trying to go with too big of diameter wheels than were engineered. This is a great post! We may need to rethink anything larger than 16-17 in rims due to the stresses! JMHO.
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