What did you do to your car today?

[c9zx]

Talked to my machine shop today. Looks like this is going to be costly.

Found out I bent my crankshaft. They said they can straighten it out, but leary of that especially since it mostly dragraced. Cam lobes are also starting to go. Cam was broken in correctly. This is the second Comp cam I have had problems with. I am going to try an Isky cam this time.

I'm wondering what the feelings are on the crank. need feed back on this. Buddy of mine has another crank he says I can have.

Have the second crank checked for straightness and journal condition. Make sure you use bearings that are compatible with the radius of the crank journals. In my opinion the cam manufacturer is not the problem. It is the oil. More specifically it is what is not in the oil, enough ZDDP (Zinc). The newer oils have much lower ZDDP content to extend the life of catalytic convertors. ZDDP is an anti-wear agent. Without enough of it in the oil flat tappet cams go flat. See joegibbsracingoil.com for detailed information. Good luck with the rebuild.

Chuck

 

[coilwire]

The second crank will have to be polished and checked. The oil I have been using is Valvoline VR 20-50 racing oil. Will have to recheck the ingredients of the oil.

Jim

 

[c9zx]

The second crank will have to be polished and checked. The oil I have been using is Valvoline VR 20-50 racing oil. Will have to recheck the ingredients of the oil.

Jim

Many oils advertise they have ZDDP. The question is how much. Most contain a fraction of the amount needed to properly protect the cam and lifters.

Chuck

 

[downwardspiral]

There are ZDDP additives available (I sell one called ZDDPlus at work). The only problem with the additive is that the oil still has detergents in it, and the detergents counter-act the zinc.. Joe Gibbs oil is the best stuff for a flat tappet cam, even though its expensive.

 

[droptop73]

We have had great results using Brad Penn break-in oil with all the race engines.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Looked at my rental Chevy Cobalt LT Coupe and wished it was my Mach 1 before I hopped in and drove back home from Dallas.

At least now that my exam is out of the way, I can start bustin' ass on the ol' girl.

 

[c9zx]

The Cobalt wishes it was a Mach1 as much as you do. Bust away!

 

[73vertproject]

Finally got the first step done in the head rebuild project: removed the hood.



Now to drain the fluids and start taking things apart.

Doc

 

[Tnfastbk]

Finally got the first step done in the head rebuild project: removed the hood.

Now to drain the fluids and start taking things apart.

Doc

::goodjob::::tease::

 

[mach71351c]

Remember WD40 is your friend.

 

[droptop73]

PB Blaster works good for freeing rusty fasteners. I have also heard a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (type F of course ) is the best for getting corroded bolts out. Never tried it but plan to.

BTW Doc, good progress.

 

[RocketFoot]

I couldn't have disassembled the 72 coupe without my trusty PB Blaster! Good stuff!

 

[72HCODE]

funny thing when i think back to my car i didn't use much PB because in my case it never worked, the heads would usually shear off the bolts and that would be it.

i spent most of the time with a dremel and a Carbide cutter and carbon cut off disc getting most of the stuff out.

when i could i got parts on the drill press to fix them, or just replaced them due to time constraints.

the most fun was totally loosing it and going insane with a sawsall under the car that removed things ASAP!

 

[mach71351c]

With western cars all you need is little WD/40.

 

[73vertproject]

Thanks, guys. I got the radiator and shroud out, plus the battery. The battery tray didn't look near as bad as I expected - cleaned up good with a wire brush and the Dremel. I'll post some pics as soon as I get the AC and heater hoses out. Progress is fun!

Doc

 

[droptop73]

Keep up the good work Doc!

 

[mach71351c]

Thanks, guys. I got the radiator and shroud out, plus the battery. The battery tray didn't look near as bad as I expected - cleaned up good with a wire brush and the Dremel. I'll post some pics as soon as I get the AC and heater hoses out. Progress is fun!

Doc

Progress is fun that what it's all about.

 

[vamach1]

The shop finished installing the new top

 

[Tnfastbk]

Thanks, guys. I got the radiator and shroud out, plus the battery. The battery tray didn't look near as bad as I expected - cleaned up good with a wire brush and the Dremel. I'll post some pics as soon as I get the AC and heater hoses out. Progress is fun!

Doc

:worthlesswithoutpics:

Thanks Doc I've been waiting to use this knew thing for a while now

The shop finished installing the new top

WoW nice::goodjob::

 

[73vertproject]

Pics are on their way soon. I promise.

Nice top, Rex! It sure updates the whole car.

Last night, I started pulling heater and radiator hoses, and those suckers are a bear, especially where they connect to the heater core and engine. Any tricks to getting them off? I've tried the "screwdriver pry with arm twist" method with a little success, as well as the "Channel Loc and profanity hose destruction" style with unsatisfactory results.

I could just cut them off at the connections and pry off the remainder since most have enough extra length that they would still fit. Then, too, I should probably just go ahead and replace them all since they're now about 40 years old. Suggestions, anyone?