What product is best to seal the roof drip rail moldings to the body?

[tpj71mach]

I spent a few hours yesterday morning cleaning and polishing all of the bright trim that goes around the windows that I was hoping to replace. I decided just to clean and polish the moldings and get the car assembled for now. Down the road after I save up some more back pocket money, I can replace any moldings that aren't as nice as I would like them to be if they bother me.
Anyways, the reason for the thread is I cleaned a grey malleable putty out of the roof drip moldings that served as the seal between the roof drip molding and the pinch weld at the roof rail, It appears to just be a sealer putty, actually it looks a lot like plumber's putty. I wanted to know what people have used when reinstalling the roof drip molding to seal them against the body. My first thought was 3M strip caulk, which I am pretty sure would work well in this situation. I was wondering if there is a better product to use when I reinstall the roof drip moldings. Has anyone used strip caulk, and if so how did it work for you? Has anyone used a different product? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[rcadd1ct]

I used butyl rubber rope or tape

 

[Hemikiller]

The factory used foam tape, which often leaked right away. I used it, and don't have leaks, but I'm sure I was a lot more careful than the assembly line workers back in the day. Many here have recommended 3M Strip Caulk in lieu of the foam tape. If you elect to use foam tape, be sure it's closed cell, exterior use and adhesive one side only. IIRC, the foam tape is 1/8" x 3/4 or 1/4" x 3/4".

Something to be noted is there is a second seal in the "curl" of the roof rail trim. that the weld seam of the roof gutter beds into. That needs to be replaced as well. The original is also a foam tape, but smaller. I don't remember the size off hand, but it's easier to install if you put some weatherstrip adhesive in the curl, and use a non-adhesive foam tape.

 

[Bill Perkins]

I spent a few hours yesterday morning cleaning and polishing all of the bright trim that goes around the windows that I was hoping to replace. I decided just to clean and polish the moldings and get the car assembled for now. Down the road after I save up some more back pocket money, I can replace any moldings that aren't as nice as I would like them to be if they bother me.
Anyways, the reason for the thread is I cleaned a grey malleable putty out of the roof drip moldings that served as the seal between the roof drip molding and the pinch weld at the roof rail, It appears to just be a sealer putty, actually it looks a lot like plumber's putty. I wanted to know what people have used when reinstalling the roof drip molding to seal them against the body. My first thought was 3M strip caulk, which I am pretty sure would work well in this situation. I was wondering if there is a better product to use when I reinstall the roof drip moldings. Has anyone used strip caulk, and if so how did it work for you? Has anyone used a different product? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I cleaned my moldings completely and removed all adhesive from the Ford factory. When I re-installed my moldings, I used what we called back in the day 60's & 70's Dumb Dumb. It comes on a roll and is flat and you form it to fit your moldings. You then install the moldings on your car and it will flatten and spread and seal the Dumb Dumb between the body and moldings.

 

[Spike Morelli]

NPD sells the correct adhesive backed rubber tape in rolls. Probably many other suppliers that advertise here do as well. I removed all of my shiny trim and drip rail moldings when I had my car painted last, used NPDs tape as original, really the way to do a professional job when re-painting. If I remember correctly, it is available in two thicknesses or widths, one or the other. Some people will find uses for 3M Strip Caulking, which comes in a flat, blue and white box, already cut into strips, which is used to seal fenders to aprons, gas tanks to floors, etc. I think it would be too thick and messy to use and trim for drip moldings. Note that the moldings on our Mustangs are shiny due to a process called "Brite Dipped", and are not just polished aluminum or bare stainless. There used to be a company called "Anno-Brite" in the Valley, in Los Angeles, but there are likely others around. To bring back window moldings , drip rails, and such to an excellent show condition, polishing won't cut it. However, the process is sort of expensive. It's cool though, I've seen complete old Ford Falcon grilles, Plymouth grilles straightened, polished, Brite dipped, and the recesses that had matte black paint, totally re-done by these places, and the parts were fantastic. I personally took a lot of interior moldings to them when I did a '63 Sport Thunderbird for Show competition, again excellent. As far as our cars go, my good friend and painter told me that if I were to consider just replacing my window moldings with aftermarket ones,.......don't. He said the aftermarket ones look good but don't fit right. Why am I not suprised there!