Window Roller

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ccijwright

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
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Location
Fredericksburg, VA
My Car
1996 Cobra Convert
1973 Mach 1
My window roller on my 73 has broken in to many pieces. Does anyone know the correct one to order and how they are installed? I looks like it is held in with a rivet of some type? By window roller I am talking about the piece inside the door that guides the window up and down. Thanks-

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I guess since 2012 it has been changed.

Looks like ont he 73 models the ball joint is riveted. I can't find the right piece anywhere, or maybe I'm blind...

Does anyone know where to find it ?

Thanks

window regulator 2.jpg

Window regulator.jpg

 
I am not sure that anyone sells that roller. You may need to buy a complete regulator. Here is a drivers side one on eBay with what seems to be a good roller $12:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265107779133?epid=17043556486&hash=item3db9a7ae3d:g:LoQAAOSw9shf9yIo

Here is a passenger side one $33:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324618056408?fits=Year%3A1973|Model%3AMustang&epid=1558619296&hash=item4b94be72d8:g:nAUAAOSw3LxfX9WB

Repro regulators seem to be about $75 and the come with the roller.

 
Search with

dorman 74430 window regulator roller 

on Google, eBay, Amazon, Rockauto... 

These are the ones you need for the window mechanism on our cars... 

As said carefully pry the top off and you could change them to your specific mechanism. 

 
But I would like to keep the original setup...
That's the part # Ford superceded the roller to in the master parts catalog. You may be able to pop the roller off and onto your regulator. 

 
So, square VS round

I found this in a DIY store, knowing that the ball joint has a diameter of 8.5 mm and that the inside height of the rail is 25 mm.

If I'm licky it should be enough.

About the square one

FORD MOTOR OEM # D6AZ-5323240-A as Hemikiller mentioned as well.

IMG_20211208_181258.jpg

 
Manu, please, be serious...

As I was talking to myself, I decided to be more serious, and I found that.

Window regulator.jpg

 
Hello Manu Mach1,

If you want to perform an effective repair and be done with it, use the square Ford service roller. I can tell you from first-hand experience that when Ford first released this roller, the shop techs resisted using them with a passion. Rollers were supposed to be .........well, round. The engineers knew what they were doing when designing this square "Roller." The original round rollers would develop enough wear over time and wobble enough in the track to bind or break. The last service round rollers (D5AZ-A) were replaced in '76 by the D6AZ-5323240-A square version. Once the shop techs realized these actually worked and eliminated comebacks, they were okay with this new fangled thing. Drill out the riveted original and use the new roller and nut. I would also suggest a lube that David (Carolina_Mountain_Mustang) has recommended. Unlike the original lubes that dried out over time and had the consistency of dried mud, the Lucus Red and Tacky#2 does not dry out. It does well in the different temperatures and conditions that this hardware is subjected to.  

The illustrations show the last round roller (D5AZ) and the D1ZZ-6523288-E bracket with the better fitting D6AZ-A square roller in the track. Just put the square peg in the square hole, lube it up, and ride!!    :biggrin:

5323240-d5az-a.jpg

5323240-d6az-a.jpg

red n tacky#2.jpg

 
Hello Manu Mach1,

If you want to perform an effective repair and be done with it, use the square Ford service roller. I can tell you from first-hand experience that when Ford first released this roller, the shop techs resisted using them with a passion. Rollers were supposed to be .........well, round. The engineers knew what they were doing when designing this square "Roller." The original round rollers would develop enough wear over time and wobble enough in the track to bind or break. The last service round rollers (D5AZ-A) were replaced in '76 by the D6AZ-5323240-A square version. Once the shop techs realized these actually worked and eliminated comebacks, they were okay with this new fangled thing. Drill out the riveted original and use the new roller and nut. I would also suggest a lube that David (Carolina_Mountain_Mustang) has recommended. Unlike the original lubes that dried out over time and had the consistency of dried mud, the Lucus Red and Tacky#2 does not dry out. It does well in the different temperatures and conditions that this hardware is subjected to.  

The illustrations show the last round roller (D5AZ) and the D1ZZ-6523288-E bracket with the better fitting D6AZ-A square roller in the track. Just put the square peg in the square hole, lube it up, and ride!!    :biggrin:

View attachment 57005

View attachment 57006

View attachment 57008
Excellent post. I can tell you that when I saw the square roller, I thought that someone had lost it. Then I see this photo and it totally makes sense now. Ignorance is one of the worst things there is, and I have been enlightened by this post  :goodjob:

 
As you said, excellent post, we understand why the square roll is more effective and better suited.

I order two of them from Canada.

I was able to get the driver's door from the body shop, and I saw that the roller was changed, by a square one.

 

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