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I am new to the site, and I have been lurking in the shadows for a bit. I have 73 Grande with Mach 1 badging that I have own for 15 years. It has been a project for all that time, and now I have the time to finish it. It currently has a 302 with a FMX.

I have found a low mileage 95 GT 302/5speed pullout complete with harness and computer. I looking at doing a complete swap and since it has the fly wheel, clutch, bell housing,starter, ect.., I am hoping this should a easy swap far as the bolt up part. Any thoughts?

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Welcome from Arkansas...I have not done this swap but have thought about it. I'm sure someone has and will give some insight soon

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Welcome to the forum from Ontario Canada! I think someone was doing this swap. Check the thread search and see what comes up.

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Ken

 

73 Convertible 302-4v-3spd yellow /white int

 

08 Bullitt 4.6-5 spd black/black int

 

 

All I ask is a chance to prove that money can't make me happy

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Welcome from coastal Alabama! I think it will be a straight forward swap for the most part. Have all the parts on hand before you pull out the 302/FMX. You will need to source the pedals and support from a manual trans car, the z-bar with link rods and support mounts. Those items are a little hard to come by. Don at OMS recently had a z-bar available and maybe the other parts.

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I have owned a 95 GT and the 5.0 is a fine engine. Since you have a 302, you should have essentially bolt in compatibility. but I would start by making some measurements to see if you will have hood clearance problems. You're going to need an electric fuel pump, preferably in tank-so you might see if you can get the 95 gas tank and whether it could be adapted-just a thought. You'll need to be careful with all of your wiring change over, but I wouldn't see any major insurmountable problems.

 

As to the clutch. . . you could use the stock cable clutch arrangement of the 95, just make sure you get all of the parts and are willing to do a little fabrication. You might want the 95 pedal assembly if you can get that too.

 

Keep in mind that the 1995 GT was rated at about 225 horsepower IIRC but probably made a bit more. With a good exhaust and a good tune, it might perform pretty nicely as the 71-73 will have an almost identical curb weight

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Welcome to the site from west Michigan.

 

I did a 5 speed swap a couple of years ago and have a thread posted on here. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-c-6-to-t-5-swap

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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I am doing something similiar with my '68 coupe. It's a supercharged 415w with EFI. Since you have everything from a donor car, the only thing you need to be concerned with is the fuel system. The 5.0L is a return system. If you contact Glens Performance, they can set you up with a tank that is all set up with a sump and able to accept a return system.

If it were me, I would go with -8 AN for your feed and -6 for your return. It's bigger than you need, but it will be perfect if you want to bolt on more power.

As for your pedal assembly, it's easier to just go with a cable setup. Just like the 5. 0L had. People will tell you that they're hard to get but they aren't any harder to get than the factory cable. You're probably going to order all this online anyway. Call Bruce at Modern Driveline for any trans, clutch, pedal, shifter questions..

If you have any issues or questions, you can PM me.


Also, the '95 intake may be an issue due to that crazy bend, and it robs power. If you want a factory intake, I like the GT-40 intake or the Cobra intake. The GT40 intake flows better out of the box but if you port or extrude hone the Cobra intake, it will outflow the GT40 intake.

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I am doing something similiar with my '68 coupe. It's a supercharged 415w with EFI. Since you have everything from a donor car, the only thing you need to be concerned with is the fuel system. The 5.0L is a return system. If you contact Glens Performance, they can set you up with a tank that is all set up with a sump and able to accept a return system.

If it were me, I would go with -8 AN for your feed and -6 for your return. It's bigger than you need, but it will be perfect if you want to bolt on more power.

As for your pedal assembly, it's easier to just go with a cable setup. Just like the 5. 0L had. People will tell you that they're hard to get but they aren't any harder to get than the factory cable. You're probably going to order all this online anyway. Call Bruce at Modern Driveline for any trans, clutch, pedal, shifter questions..

If you have any issues or questions, you can PM me.


Also, the '95 intake may be an issue due to that crazy bend, and it robs power. If you want a factory intake, I like the GT-40 intake or the Cobra intake. The GT40 intake flows better out of the box but if you port or extrude hone the Cobra intake, it will outflow the GT40 intake.

 

I agree with cazper, the stock 95 intake sucks, the cheapest and best bang for the buck intake is the gt40 intkes on ford explorers 96-01. I have an explorer 5.0 in my 72 coupe with a t-5 and I used the modern driveline clutch cable and it more than suffices my needs. I love driving the car since I did all the upgrades. I would consider converting to the 87-93 mustang accessory drive though cause then you wont have issues with the ps pump or ac hitting anything. and if the harness doesn't work RGM injection tech makes a wicked nice harness to plug in and fire the 5.0, that's whats in my car

 

CIMG0587.jpg I wrote an article about 5.0 efi swaps on here somewhere btw.

Powered by Determination, Fueled by Ambition

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Man, I feel a lot better about doing this swap now. I have another clean late model roller 302 that I was thinking of running a carb set up with the T5 tranny just to get me down the road. That would give me time to build a 302 the EFI with all the good stuff and sort out my harness.

Will I need to worry about running the cats with the EFI? And why is the 87 to 93 pulley system more desirable than the 94 to 95 system.

Thanks

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If you're going to build up a motor, that wouldn't be a bad way to go. As long as you dont mind doing the motor swap twice. As for cats, from personal experience anyway, I didn't run cats on my '96 cobra for almost a year and I didn't have any issues at all. I mean, the offload X-pipes don't have cats.

93 vs 94-95's.. What I have read is that starting in '94, the intention was to have the 4.6. For whatever reason, they ended up holding off and just using motors from the T-bird's. The bigger cars had a bigger engine compartment and the accessories mounted a little wider. To be honest, I don't know how much wider they were or even if it would affect anything.

If you're getting rid of your front dress (timing chain cover, brackets, pulleys), I would be interested in them.

By the way, if you're going to run one of those roller motors carbed, remember to use a hardened distributer gear.

Hope this helps..

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I used the Moderndriveline 71-73 clutch cable kit, it's only $250, works great.

(forget about trying to use a 1995 clutch cable).

You can also get a new clutch pedal for '71-'73 cars from MD for $160.

You can use your existing '73 pedal mount and brake pedal also. The mount is the same

for automatic trans or manual. Just carefully trim your brake pedal with a cut-off saw to fit a new smaller brake pad. Use the new pad as a template. You don't need to take off the old mount or brake pedal to instal the new clutch pedal.

The rest of the swap should be fairly easy if you going carb.

You'll probably need a different length drive shaft. Have it shortened and rebalanced by a professional shop

that has proper balancing equipment.

1971 Mach1

351C-4v

C6 is history-->>now TKO-500

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Great advice, thank you all. I found out that the motor and tranny I am buying have 58,000 miles on them. They were pulled about 3 yrs ago for a project and were never used. I will even get the drive shaft, shorty headers and the radiator as well. I am so stoked about this project. I am wondering if it won't be easier to just keep it together and run it the way it is for now.

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If its all together and with so few miles, it might be better to keep it together and build up your other motor if/when you feel like it. That way your downtime will be limited.

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Keep in mind that the 94 and 95 5.0 GT use a different trans input shaft and water pump than the previous Fox body, so the front accessory drive stuff, bellhousing, etc. are not interchangeable between iterations of the 5.0. If you keep everything together as a unit, no problem, but for example, using a Fox water pump with the SN-95 accessory drive will not match. The lower intake and stock exhaust on the SN-95 were also design for the more "aero" nose and are more restrictive. Just keep these in mind if you want to throw a few bolt-ons into the mix.

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Keep in mind that the 94 and 95 5.0 GT use a different trans input shaft and water pump than the previous Fox body, so the front accessory drive stuff, bellhousing, etc. are not interchangeable between iterations of the 5.0. If you keep everything together as a unit, no problem, but for example, using a Fox water pump with the SN-95 accessory drive will not match. The lower intake and stock exhaust on the SN-95 were also design for the more "aero" nose and are more restrictive. Just keep these in mind if you want to throw a few bolt-ons into the mix.

 

So the block on a 94 and 95 are different from the other 302's? I was hoping to swap them out.

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No, the blocks are the same. But if you use the earlier brackets and accessories, you need to use the earlier timing chain cover as well. I'm actually looking for a '94-'95 timing chain cover, brackets and accessories.

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Just a heads-up on the install.

 

I used the 94-95 transmission for my 5 speed swap. The input shaft is about 3/4" longer than the fox body. The stock C-6 crossmember bolted right up to the trans and into the car using the 73 trans mount. I have many miles on the set-up without any issues. The shifter comes right up into the stock hole in the floor. I did trim about 1/4" from the right side of the hole for a ittle additional clearance. It could not have been a simpler swap.

 

If you need a C-6 crossmember I have a spare. PM me an address and it's yours.

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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I'm late to the party here.

On the front accessory drive; the 5.0 uses arear sump pan and block mounted oil dipstick, which will both need to be relocated. The DS hole in the 5.0 block can be plugged tirh an oil gallery plug, tapped & threaded for a pipe plug, or simply plugged with a wodden dowel or RTV silicone. You can re-use the, oil pan, water pump timing cover & dipstick from the 73 302. At this point I'd switch to 90's serpentine bracketry & pulleys. For pulleys stay with the stock Ford steel ones (cheap abundant salvage pick-ups) as opposed to aftermarket aluminum(which wear too readily).

The RJM harnes previously reccommended is an excilent harness, http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/classic-ford-harness You Will need to use an 89-93 ECCIV 60 pin CPU instead of the 94-95 ECCV 104 pin CPU from the 95. The 94-95 ECCV is OBDII and way more complex.

Study that RJM site it has tons of outstanding information, you can even use their info to build your own harness.

While your out salvage yard hunting. an aluminum 51 1/4" DS from an early 2dr Exploder is a bolt in.

Want to keep an automatic the 4R70W is made to order. and cheaper to do than a $3k AOD conversion.

 

Tubo

Miss May, 65 2+2 EFI 331 4R70W 3.55 trac-loc Not much origional remaining

Robert's 73 Vert 308 4R70W 3.25 trac-loc. EFI conversion & 8.8 Trac-Loc 3.31 started.

 

 

If it ain't broke, I haven't modified it yet.

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The RJM harnes previously reccommended is an excilent harness, http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/classic-ford-harness You Will need to use an 89-93 ECCIV 60 pin CPU instead of the 94-95 ECCV 104 pin CPU from the 95. The 94-95 ECCV is OBDII and way more complex.

 

While your out salvage yard hunting. an aluminum 51 1/4" DS from an early 2dr Exploder is a bolt in.

 

 

Tubo

Ok, I am trying to understand, the 95' ECCV is not the way to go. I am looking at the best way to go long term. So the 87 to 93 ECCIV is a better choice.

What about the alternator? Do I use the original or the 95?

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Use the 95. It will be a 3g which is light years ahead of the 1g in your car. Usually 130 amp vs 65.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.

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I got my motor today, Boy what a mess. It's dirty and covered with cobwebs. How much of the emissions and vacuum lines can I get rid of to clean this up. I am looking for some good info on what vacuum lines are good to keep and where to route them.

Also, what a good clutch for the money?

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